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Technical When it rains, it pours....

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Oly20, Oct 3, 2013.

  1. Oly20
    Joined: Mar 24, 2013
    Posts: 26

    Oly20
    Member

    Okay... it is me again. The mechanically handicapped know nothing from Montana. Last you heard, I had a idle problem (never resolved), it kept speeding up even when there was NO pressure on the pedal.
    Now, I drive it to school. Everything is running normal (?) and after school I get in to leave. Start it up.... start to leave the parking lot...it dies. I start it up...it dies. I start thinking that someone has siphoned all my gas. Wife brings me gas and it starts to overflow...(Plenty of gas, gas gauge is broke) I end up towing it home and it has been sitting since. I am going out on a limb here and thinking it might be a clogged fuel filter, fuel line or an act of God telling me that I am not qualified to have this classic.:confused: What can you suggest?

    -OLY
     
  2. 53 COE
    Joined: Oct 8, 2011
    Posts: 688

    53 COE
    Member
    from PNW

    Did you ever replace all the rubber vacuum lines for your idle problem?

    How old was the gas in the tank?

    Really sounds like something simple, you might just bite the bullet and find a good mechanic to look it over.

    ;)
     
  3. junk yard kid
    Joined: Nov 11, 2007
    Posts: 2,717

    junk yard kid
    Member

    Sounds like clogged fuel filter, line, carb, or tank. Hell might even be a bad pump.
     
  4. hendo0601
    Joined: Aug 24, 2013
    Posts: 288

    hendo0601
    Member
    from Tacoma, WA

    What kind of car is this? I know vehicles equipped with a ballast resistor in the ignition system will start and die start and die start and die when the ballast resistor goes bad. Super common problem on older MoPars.

    Idle speed going high definitely sounds like a vacuum leak.
     

  5. Is the choke working? Do you let it warm up?

    Could be a clogged fuel line, as you mentioned, or a blocked fuel pickup in the tank.

    With your idle problem, it sounds like you may have other issues though, like a vacuum leak.

    I doubt that it's a sign from God, unless God just wants you learn more about how old cars and engines work (which you're already doing):D
     
    Last edited: Oct 3, 2013
  6. Flip8
    Joined: Sep 11, 2013
    Posts: 39

    Flip8
    Member

    Does it have a mechanical fuel pump maybe it's not pushing the fluids and my truck ha the idle problem I just had to adjust the rod and my return spring runs great now


    Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
     
  7. My experience with a bad ballast resister is that it will never really start and run. As soon as you let up on the key (or starter button) it will die. It sounds like the OP got it to run but it just keeps stalling.
     
    Last edited: Oct 3, 2013
  8. Oly20
    Joined: Mar 24, 2013
    Posts: 26

    Oly20
    Member

    Wow! You guys are very fast. I just recently changed out the fuel pump. It probably has less then 100 miles on it. The gas in the tank was less than a week old, I had just filled it up and was driving it every so often. It is a 1952 Chevy truck.
    I really want to thank all of you who offer up advice .....it is so appreciated.

    OLY
     
  9. Oly20
    Joined: Mar 24, 2013
    Posts: 26

    Oly20
    Member

    Oh...and I never did replace my rubber lines
     
  10. If you suspect a clogged line or filter, the first thing is to see whether you are getting gas to the carb. Do you know how to check that?


    Are you talking about rubber fuel line or vacuum line? Either way, I would replace it. Cheap and easy to do. It could be sucking air (and still not leaking fuel), it could be collapsing, or, with today's gas it could be turning to mush inside and clogging up the works.

    Also, have a look at your fuel filter. Is it full of rust or other crap?
     
    Last edited: Oct 3, 2013
  11. Oly20
    Joined: Mar 24, 2013
    Posts: 26

    Oly20
    Member

    no...that is why I love and need this site.
     
  12. hendo0601
    Joined: Aug 24, 2013
    Posts: 288

    hendo0601
    Member
    from Tacoma, WA


    After reading back through it I realized that is what was going on...not the typical ballast resistor problem like you described (runs with the key in "start" then dies when you let off) Then I checked his profile and I think he is talking about a 51 chevy pickemup truck.

    See if you can get the engine to run on carb cleaner...if you can get it to fire and keep running as you spray carb cleaner into it, you have a fuel supply issue i.e. clogged filter, restricted line, failed fuel pump etc. Disconnect the fuel line going into the carb and aim it into a bottle/bucket/container and have someone crank the engine over for about 5-10 seconds. You should see steady pulses of fuel coming out as the mechanical pump works. If you have a little dribble, disconnect the inlet side of the fuel filter (assuming your filter is between the pump and the carb) and repeat with the cranking for 5-10 seconds. If you now have good fuel pulses you have a clogged filter, replace it and get that thing back on the road. If that still doesnt work, you need to replace the fuel pump. You need 4 things to make an engine run....air, fuel, compression, and spark. We obviously have air and spark (since it fires and dies), assuming we have good compression...that leaves fuel. Start simple and follow the guidlines we have posted here and before long you will get it running and be able to say "see?!?! I DID THAT!!!"
     
  13. 59Apachegail
    Joined: Apr 30, 2011
    Posts: 1,504

    59Apachegail
    Member
    from New York

    Don't be so hard on yourself... My truck sat a year because my main ground was not making proper contact to my engine and my lacking skills were not enough to figure it out.

    It sat another six month because fuel line was getting plugged as I was driving it.

    Don't be afraid to go through everything from sender to carb. Take out one piece at a time make sure it is clean and working properly. Sender needs a "sock" on the end in the tank. Make sure your fuel line is clear, disconnect it on both sides and blow it out with some air. If you don't have an inline filter add one (not the plastic ones). Not only did I find rust and crap in my carb but two huge moths stuck in my line got blown out as I put air to it.

    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1380817184.611117.jpg

    I just found the courage to rebuild my carb (a year later) and found that same rusty crap all in the bottom of my fuel bowl and a busted pump. The carb is not sorted yet because I am waiting on some basic tools (dwell-tach, timing light, vacuum gauge). Take your time, ask questions, check your work and you'll get there.
     
  14. Oly20
    Joined: Mar 24, 2013
    Posts: 26

    Oly20
    Member

    Thank you so much for the advice and guidance. You all are fantastic and very much appreciated. I will try all that I can and I will get back to you. I love to drive this truck, I want it to be my everyday driver, Thanks again.

    OLY
     
  15. 53 COE
    Joined: Oct 8, 2011
    Posts: 688

    53 COE
    Member
    from PNW

    Gas sender really easy to access and replace. Everyone needs a working gas gage.......

    ;)
     
  16. You're welcome. Most folks here are happy to help so don't be afraid to ask questions.

    Keep in mind that even when these trucks were new they required a lot more maintenance than today's vehicles. Now that they are 60+ years old, they will require even more as things wear out and have to be replaced or rebuilt. So plan on that if you want to use it as a daily driver. It's all worth it though.
     
  17. hendo0601
    Joined: Aug 24, 2013
    Posts: 288

    hendo0601
    Member
    from Tacoma, WA


    It may be something as simple as replacing the fuel sender ground. I usually hose clamp a decently thick gauge wire to the fuel outlet pipe on the sender and on the other end crimp on an eyelet...run it to the frame...expose bare metal, drill a hole, and run a bolt with a star washer through the eyelet.
     
  18. 59Apachegail
    Joined: Apr 30, 2011
    Posts: 1,504

    59Apachegail
    Member
    from New York

    Once you get this sorted make life easier for yourself...

    If they are old or you're not sure of them change your plugs, wires, cap, rotor, ballast resistor and coil.

    It is cheap insurance that you know all of that stuff is new. I put $100 in for that stuff and now when I have a problem I know it is not one of those things.
     
  19. 53 COE
    Joined: Oct 8, 2011
    Posts: 688

    53 COE
    Member
    from PNW

    Yep. Easy to run a ground wire from one of the sender mounting screws - to a cab back upright support or better the battery ground or frame - I have that on my AD truck.......... Both when the original tank was in there - and with a poly tank out back now.

    ;)
     
    Last edited: Oct 3, 2013
  20. 1959apache
    Joined: Nov 22, 2009
    Posts: 2,635

    1959apache
    Member

    remove the gas cap to see if it will stay running (if the cap isn't any good the tank won't have any air to replace the gas you are using) it will act like air being sucked out of a coke bottle. If it runs without the cap, then it is bad.

    If you are going to replace the rubber lines for fuel use fuel injection line (it can handle ethanol in gas where normal line won't). it is slightly more expensive, but worth it.

    I would pull the rubber hose or hard fuel line that goes to the carb from the carb and make sure that fuel is coming out like saxman said. Make sure you have a bucket for the gas to go in. Have someone crank the engine over and see how much is coming out. It should be like a garden hose if it is unplugged. If it trickles or isn't like a garden hose with plenty of fuel coming out, you have a plugged line or fuel pump that is bad

    The surging is probably a vacuum leak, really easy fix, no big deal...

    Get it running first and we can help you troubleshoot the rest. Report back your findings
     
  21. Oly20
    Joined: Mar 24, 2013
    Posts: 26

    Oly20
    Member

    I did notice that when I fill it up, and put the gas cap on, then after awhile the gas starts seeping out of the gas cap neck and down the side of the truck. I remove it and it stops....I put it back on and after a bit the gas starts seeping again.
     
  22. 53 COE
    Joined: Oct 8, 2011
    Posts: 688

    53 COE
    Member
    from PNW


    Never top it off. They do reproduce all the filler neck parts - should you need it....

    http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_sop...evy+truck+gas+filler&rt=nc&LH_ItemCondition=3
     
  23. stimpy
    Joined: Apr 16, 2006
    Posts: 3,546

    stimpy

    the way god tells you to give it up is when a bus stop sign appears in front of your house ... and the town don't have bus service .. :p
     

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