Old Guy Says it's a Corvette SBC from Old Rod

Well i'ld have to agree with ya on this issue........but....only because most of the 400 sbc had weak castings, and they cracked around the stream/water holes around the bores......I've loaded pics of this in earlier posts......but i think the 11 casting blocks, but for sure the 509 cast 400's are high nickel blocks and don't crack like the others..besides its the cracks that start the over heating on the other blocks......my 400/40 over blower motor...560 lift cam...in a72 Vega wagon never over heated on many years of cruising..in 100 + degree summer heat never once got hot..drove it every where every day....its sitting on the engine stand now as a possible play motor for Lil Beast.everything in the drive line will bolt to a sbc..

Basically, not all 400 blocks sucked

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Years ago I went to look at a '67 Chevelle wagon with a "Corvette 327". When I opened the hood I found the original 275HP 327 the wagon was born with. I said "well chief, that's not a Corvette 327", and he said "sure it is, look, see, its got the "Camelot heads". My buddy and I almost pissed our pants laughing.

 

double block 388 heads on a 010 block would make it a 72-76 350....




<TABLE border=0 cellPadding=4 width="100%" bgColor=#000000><TBODY><TR><TD>[SIZE=-1]1968-71 [/SIZE]</TD><TD>[SIZE=-1]3986388 [/SIZE]</TD><TD>[SIZE=-1]307[/SIZE]</TD><TD>[SIZE=-1]1.72[/SIZE]</TD><TD>[SIZE=-1]1.5[/SIZE]</TD></TR><TR><TD>[SIZE=-1]1972-76 [/SIZE]</TD><TD>[SIZE=-1]3986388 [/SIZE]</TD><TD>[SIZE=-1]350[/SIZE]</TD><TD>[SIZE=-1]1.72[/SIZE]</TD><TD>[SIZE=-1]1.5[/SIZE]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>

 

You bought that milk truck wheel? Hurry up!

 

And just how many wrecked/stolen/etc corvettes with engines have you run across?

What makes it a corvette motor? Simple.....a engine pad stamp that matches the corvette vin.

Why the snarky comments about all the corvette motors.....people who do not own a corvette motor that wish they did.

 

All right, pay attention, because I'm only going to say this once:

All SBC are from a Corvette
All Y blocks are 312s out of Thunderbirds
All Muncie four speeds are M-22 "rock crushers"....in fact, sometimes T10s and Saginaws are too. The orange and white pumpkin head in the engine picture will back me up on this.

 

239, give or take. lol. I've run across more than the average Corvette hunter, that's for sure. It was a joke. Lighten up. I currently own 3 vintage Corvettes with matching numbers, so I don't wish for anything.

 

They mean all of the numbers are western arabic numerals, and not a mix of roman, arabic, daiji, cryllic numerals or a mix of binary, octal, and hexidecimal numbers.

 

10 out of every 7 Corvette engines are alive and well, and living in hot rods, right now!

The casting number 010, despite what you may have heard, or read, simply means the block was cast for, and finished at a 4" bore, NOTHING ELSE. Everything else you have heard or read is a myth. In other words, a 010 block can be anything that had a 4" bore. The number of bolts on the main bearing caps was chosen in the FINISHING process. A 4-bolt main block just has more holes drilled and tapped in it. No number cast into the block ever indicates how many main cap bolts the engine has.

This Nickle content nonsense has got to stop. Repeating a lie over and over again is the definition of politics, and politics are not welcome here.

 

This must be a Corvette motor... the valve covers say so !!!

 

I disagree... The 010means the block ha 10% nickel. and the even more rare 020 is 20%....


The rest I am in total agreement

 

So an 880 block is 80%?

My family worked the foundry. I am going with the source on this one.

 

880 and 123 where totally different blocks..... The 880 was the vortec 383 block..... GM had switched there formulas by then...


Its no secret that the 010 block is the nickel to iron content.... Its stronger then say my block that's a 86/87 .....


I agree with you about everything in your post regarding the 4 inch bore ect.... Things where simply different regarding casting #. the 010 block was sought after by racers.....

 

I do not own a Corvette or a Corvette motor and could care less if I ever do in my lifetime.

 

You can choose to believe whatever you like. That is your right.

Until a few years ago, I was able to talk directly to the gentleman supervising the pour of those blocks. He said otherwise. I will take direct eyewitness testimony over hearsay.

I am the first generation of my family to NOT be GM/UAW, since there was a GM or UAW.

 

I will add, that I just called a buddy whos dad was also employed by GM, in the foundry..... He stated that this is a very debate-able or argue-able topic.... He said it was probably started by someone who worked there, and when the 010 blocks first originated.....

He said that the 010 and 020 blocks are no stronger....then any other 4 inch bore block....

 

Two independent verifications, directly from the source.

 

So if I put a 327 from a 66 Impala into my Corvette.........That makes it a Corvette motor???????????????

 

That is one of the ways!

 

the numbers and letters stamped into the front of the block tell were and what the block was for.corvettes had the last 5 or 6 numbers of the vin stamped their also .

 

Some of the "it's a Vette motor" stories are true. You need to look at the stamped numbers on the pad. There is a date code cast in the block near the distributor.
A real vette engine looks like this one found in a K-88 dragster.

 

Any verdict if you bought the rim(s)?
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Most only suck after exsessive use....i sold a fresh cornett 30 over splayed block that lasta couple years before knocking the mains out....if anyones looking a friend has a fresh 60cornett over half fill 400 block for sale

 

A friend ended up with a real deal vette motor out of a mini rod pulling tractor....from the corvette scripts to the vette oil pan...

 

With all the talk about the engine, I feel like I should remind you that you need to buy that wheel. It's much more important, IMO

 

well to do the research, you'll find that the 509 blocks do not crack around the steam releifs in the block..beat on mine for over 15 years and it still is crack free....blower...40 over bore....

and as far as the nickel content goes, they also made the 509 casting 400 with more nickel then normal.....

say what ya want to about foundries, mom and pop working there.....I have a 2 bolt 350,,standard gm stuff...I have a 350 4 bolt high nickel block...and also the 400 hi nic block.....all been setting next to each other in the garage for over 6 years....which blocks do ya think has no surface rust????

as is always the case, everyone is wrong and everyones right...on the internet....depends on whos typing......read my tach wiring thread...people here all had it figured out because of what they thought.,,,,sad part is they were all wrong...guess i'll lucky I didn't fry the tach I paid $175 like I would have if I had listened to the advice givin....instead I did my home work ...tach works great!!!!!!

SO TO THE OP OF THIS THREAD, DO YOUR HOMEWORK...BUY THE WHEEL...THEN SEE ABOUT PEEKING INSIDE THE MOTOR

 

The nickel content did vary over the years, but it does NOT correlate to any part numbers, at least on the 4" bore blocks. Keep living the dream.

 

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Ha! You don't have to go to that
extreme, even! All you have to do
is say that it is and it magically
becomes a "Corvette engine"!!!.
If anyone doubts you, you can slap
a pair of factory "Corvette script"
aluminum valve covers on the
engine to "abslolutely prove beyond
any possible doubt" that it's a "real,
geniine and 'oh my god' it's a Corvette
engine!!!". Also, it's a proven and
well established "fact", known
by nearly all "truly in the know"
14-year-old bench racers and by
absolutely all engine sellers, that 10
out 9 small block Chev V8s produced
from 1955 onward, were installed
on the assembly line in Corvettes,
before they were then removed and
put into something else, right at the
factory even!!

Mart3406
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