Found this repair on the 371 rocket block in the olds. Its inbetween the 2 middle cylinders on drivers side . There are water passages that run either side of the repair into the head . What are the implications of something like this? I am planning on getting it rebuilt but wondering if I should start searching for another block.
Well - the pictures are sooooooo large, that I really have a hard time 'seeing' what I'm looking at there on my screen - but I suspect the repaired area is not of structural concern...however it may leak water someday. I personally would not spend any time or money on a block that was cracked and repaired - unless it was something that was rare as a hen's tooth. I'd spend a little time hunting another block before I messed with that - just my opinion. Good luck.
I went through the same thing on the Yblock I just built. Bought a donor 272 to rebuild as a 292. Had a nice paint job on it so I didn't see the crack on the side of the block between the middle 2 cyls. They found the crack after hot tanking it and started to bore it. Guy knew a shop that could weld it but wouldn't guarantee it. I rolled the dice & had it welded. I must say he did a better job than the pic you posted. Got the engine back in around Feb. and hasn't leaked since. Got lucky.
Back in the day we used to REPAIR stuff not toss it out the window. HAMB'er Moepower owned a barn find Nash Lafayette that had major surgery done to the side of the block where it had busted due to freezing. The repair was done with a brass plate, some Permatex and a home made gasket and about 40 holes drilled into the block and tapped for machine screws. This car was a fixture at many old car events around here for many years... I wouldn't worry about it.... get the block cleaned and go from there... if it leaks get it welded. If your machinist work work on it find a guy who repairs old farm equipment... that block looks pristine compared to some of the old John Deere blocks that get saved. Look closely and you can see the brass machine screws along the block... http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a385/krooser/MOUSECAR/mousemobile4.jpg
Yeah, the pics are too damn big to see what needs to be seen... Get the block properly cleaned and magged. If the crack is still evident then you must drill the ends of the crack(s) to keep them from continuing. If you drill the ends then you can run a small screw into the hole. If a pressure test shows leakage then use some Bars Stop Leak or Aluma-seal. Freeze cracks are rarely structural issues. Those who say throw it away are probably part of the younger generation who think everything is disposable and don't have a clue as to how to fix something.....buy, buy, buy....... .
We raced a SJ 327 that had a 3"x4" patch welded in the right side outer water jacket. A good dose of "egg keep" from time to time kept it dry.
have a true engine building shop clean and magna flux check it - hard to tell how long the crack(s) really are
It ran when parked right?? or atleast directly before, worst case you have to add a bit of water here and there
If the repair held so far, it will probably continue to hold. I've hear people say they prefer used blocks over new blocks, because the metallurgy has already settled with the heat, vibrations and forces and proved its worth. It may be less of a dice roll than a new block.
www.locknstitch.com They have great products to make repairs to blocks. You can go to youtube and also watch some repairs being made.
If the weld is sound and the structure hasn't been compromised, "go for it"! Just to be safe against leaks, go for a ceramic sealer. Use Irontite, or any of the other better ones. I don't know about the modern day Barr's Leak. I had some problems with it; but, that was five decades ago.
Cheers guys, just the words of wisdom I was after. I spoke to a local guy here that rebuilds vintage motors and he's not too keen on getting a block rewelded or rebuilding a repaired block due to his past experiences. He hasnt seen the damage yet but I think he will come to the same conclusion as you guys that it is not structural and go ahead with it. Once he gives the go ahead i'll have it crack tested and go from there. Pretty impressed with the locknstich method, it looks neat and probably more reliable than getting it rewelded. Ill suggest this when I'm down there. So far the estimated full rebuild is around 10k incl parts :/ It is probably cheaper for me to get a remanufactured engine shipped from the US! But that is at the cost of not knowing how good the end product will be. Chances are it hides just the same nasties as I have. I could probably have the cost reduced a little if I get him to do the bare minimum and i do the rest at home. Never rebuilt an engine before , but have a few mates that would help along the way.
At this stage, and considering your concerns and talents, you may be well served to shop around for a fresh rebuilt unit stateside. There are plenty of reputable shops than can and will ship crated engines to just about any where. It certainly is helpful, however, if you have knowledge of a container headed your way. Can you get a fresh 371 delivered for your $10K? I would be asking the question. .
73RR, Glad i asked the question. I managed to find a supplier in the US to deliver a rebuilt block and heads for 4k incl shipping to aus, and its backed with a warranty. On the other hand I found a local engine rebuilder that would carry out the machine work, stich repair and testing for much much cheaper. The options are definitely there, Ill keep it updated in this thread as it progresses.
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