Let's see some sheet metal shaping

You got to just love this thread, absolutely brimming with talent.
That work on the dash pods is superb.
That roof section is looking pretty spot on too.

Paul.

 

Well here are a few pics of the metal shaping at my shop by some of my buddies!






a few more pics here http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/album.php?albumid=37596
I have been having about 8-10 guys and gals at a time, as that is about all the shop can handle. also have been picking a subject like motorcycle gas tanks, 39-40 Chevy trucks, soon will be a 30's Ford truck.
They have been fun! someday we will do a customizing and a leading week end. I wish I could invite everyone but.... we got to cut down on the slackers!!!! tt I hope these thumbnails open up ok???

 

Very cool.. The thought of a power hammer hammer makes me smile

 

Looks great!

 

I made this part

 

Also made the sheetmetal interior including the tunnel

 

Man you guys are absolutely the shit, I wish I had that kind of talent. I have a box pan brake and slip roller but definitely need to get a wheel, been thinking of making one though. I really want to advance my metal shaping. Thanks to all the members who post there skill.

Robert

 

A front fender brace for a '40 Ford .I got about 3 hours in this. I need to make one more. You can buy a pair for about a $100.00 shipped to your door already painted. I figured I could make my own for that. A $100.00 really ain't that bad.

 

The before:

Had some rust pin holes in the bottom of the 55's upper gate...



My tool of choice for removing spot welds is a 3" x 1/16 cutoff wheel. I also use the premium wheels made for stainless steel. It's worth the extra money when you don't have a brown cloud in the shop, like the el cheapo wheels leave, nothing but resin wearing away.
The upper layer of metal will start to turn blue when it gets thin and hot, letting you know you're getting close to the next layer. When you have a blue circle with shiny metal in the center, you are now in the second layer, grind around the blue a bit more and pry the layers apart..



With all the spot welds removed, here's what we find inside...







Note the deep pits. The big problem with just welding a hole closed is you don't know where the next pit is lurking, ready to break through your new paint.



Funny, with all the rust and scale inside, then you find this area of bare steel nice and shiney..



The inside will get media blasted to insure there is no more lurking issues and then epoxy primered before re-assembly.

Here's a better look at the shape we'll need...

 

The After:

To start the layout on the new metal, I wanted to find the center of the radius along the window opening. By holding a sanding disc on the flats and scuffing, it showed the edges of the radius...







Then laid out a pattern to be able to measure from the bottom crease...



....and transposed it to the new sheet...







The top edge was trimmed to size and the tipping wheel used to fold over the welding flange...





Comparison....



The bottom was marked with the tipping wheel and folded in the apron brake. Then trimmed to size, again using the tipping wheel to fold over the welding flange...



It's real close right now, just needs a bit of tweaking.













This was made using 18 ga, I think if I had the factory 19 ga metal it would have formed much easier..

 

Very well done. You need to get some of the Route 56 Metalshaping sheetmetal to work with. It is 19 ga and shapes good.

 

Robert and Jeff
I'm going to say Gator (Rick Hemlick) may have a good source, he is a heck of a lot closer. I don't know if he has DQ, and yes it is better than basic commercial steel. Maybe Rick Mullen has found a source? he isn't all that far (well 200 miles or less) It's not that you would not have fun at Dan's.

 

Been working my way through this thread. Just have to say the artistry in all the work here is outstanding. Thanks to all posters.

 

just can not stop watching this

 

Shaping metal has always caught my interest, this thread has taught me a lot. Thanks for all the info. I just spent 4 days reading it, now back to the rest of the H.A.M.B.

 

Wow, those are humbling skills MP&C - thanks for the step by step post.

 

Always awsome!

 

This is a heat shield for the fender well headers on my 40 Willys. Fasteners will be centered where the dimples were pressed in.

 

Maybe now would be a good time to show some recent progress on my built-from-scratch vintage champ car:

 

That looks great TFF!

Busy on a scratch build special of my own, loosely based around a 28/29 cowl shape - will post a build thread in due course

 

Those quarters look interesting.....

 

I took the Step1 and Step 2 course through Lazze in S.F. 4 of us built this coupe from flat sheet metal in 4 days.

 

Amazing!

 

TFF, Barry, Hooli
Some nice work! thanks for sharing!!!

 

Holy crap that's awesome.

 

Great work guys!


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What becomes of the cars when complete?

 

He used to have a raffle for all the guys that took his advanced Step 2 course and he would give one away at the end of the year. If I remember right he only takes 4 guys a time, 4 times a year for the step 2 though he may have changed that.

The coupe we built he was going to keep for himself, the one beside it he gave away to a guy who helps him out. I know he was selling a few, in some of the other classes they built roadsters, 5 window model A, and an aluminum Willy's body.

 

That would be cool to own a car you had a part in building from flat stock. Must be a pain to deal with the dmv to register.