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home made tools and equipment...

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by kustombuilder, Jan 16, 2008.

  1. nxcess
    Joined: Mar 30, 2013
    Posts: 108

    nxcess
    Member
    from Mesa, AZ

    JUst finished my reciprocating hammer and power bead roller bead roller.jpg
    HAve also built my own disc sander.
     
  2. mgermca
    Joined: Mar 2, 2008
    Posts: 261

    mgermca
    Member

    Hey those look realllly nice, got more pics of them?
     
  3. Wardog
    Joined: Jan 12, 2010
    Posts: 2,438

    Wardog
    Member

    Yeah, more pics please. Especialy of the hammer.
     
  4. nxcess
    Joined: Mar 30, 2013
    Posts: 108

    nxcess
    Member
    from Mesa, AZ

    power hammer.jpg

    grinders.jpg
    found the better photo and one of the grinder
     
  5. Joyer
    Joined: Jul 17, 2013
    Posts: 39

    Joyer
    Member
    from Ohio

    @nxcess: Holy crap those are good. I just made a bead roller and had a heck of a time figuring out how to power it exactly (besides hand powered) but I pretty much see what you did there. Very nice. Mine is powered by a Pipe threader, hooked to a router speed control, hooked to a momentary foot pedal, chain driven. I've got a lot of power and a perfect rpm range (1-10). The one down fall of my set up is that thing is so loud you can't hear yourself think! Mine ain't near as purdy as those though. Awesome job!:D
     
  6. onemintcaddy
    Joined: Feb 7, 2007
    Posts: 375

    onemintcaddy
    Member

    Now this is the Cats Ass Hay !!!!
    Nice job Man. Now I can dig out that table saw and off set it's footprint it makes in the shop. MINT !
     

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  7. Nxcess is your bead roller anchored to the floor ?
     
  8. Barn Find
    Joined: Feb 2, 2013
    Posts: 2,312

    Barn Find
    Member
    from Missouri

    Just a few of the wrenches that needed customizing for working on the Diamond T 201. The result of a low production run by an independent builder using components manufactured by other companies is that the Diamond T's do not have very thorough engineering. Most of the bolts are in awkward places, and you have to cut up most of your wrenches to work on one of these trucks.

    [​IMG]
     
  9. nxcess
    Joined: Mar 30, 2013
    Posts: 108

    nxcess
    Member
    from Mesa, AZ

    Yes, it is bolted to the floor. It will pivot around by loosening three set screws.
     
  10. Thanks it looks very clean
     
  11. neatoldclassics
    Joined: Mar 1, 2008
    Posts: 187

    neatoldclassics
    Member
    from Montana

    Here's my version of the shrinker stretcher...I used a bunch of old wrenches for the linkage...had fun making it...
     

    Attached Files:

  12. AHotRod
    Joined: Jul 27, 2001
    Posts: 12,216

    AHotRod
    Member

    Now THAT is a piece of Art work too ! ^^^^^ Well done!
     
  13. jkherd
    Joined: Mar 13, 2009
    Posts: 83

    jkherd
    Member

    :) I like it!
     
  14. ronzmtrwrx
    Joined: Sep 9, 2008
    Posts: 1,146

    ronzmtrwrx
    Member

    Nothing earth shattering here, but I made these adjustable sand boards for block sanding larger low to med crown panels. One is 24" long and the other is 36" long. I used 1/4" x 3" aluminum flat stock milled down to 2 3/4" wide, to take the sticky back paper. Someone prob makes something similar, but I like home made. :)
     

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  15. niceguyede
    Joined: Jan 19, 2009
    Posts: 633

    niceguyede
    Member
    from dallas

    That's a great idea....thanks
     
  16. chrisp
    Joined: Jan 27, 2007
    Posts: 1,051

    chrisp
    Member

    Did you add some kind of padding between the aluminum and sanding paper?
    I would think that the edges would tend to dig in paint and filler.
    Anyway those are great.
     
  17. ronzmtrwrx
    Joined: Sep 9, 2008
    Posts: 1,146

    ronzmtrwrx
    Member

    No, I didn't add a pad, although they would probably be better with one. I just put a couple layers of green masking tape on prior to sticking on the paper. I haven't had a problem with digging in. You will quickly get the feel of the drag on the board when blocking in a criss cross pattern and the handles allow you to keep the leading edge from dragging, going away from you and coming back to you as well. I use these on the body filler and primer as well. Thanks for the comments.
     
  18. niceguyede
    Joined: Jan 19, 2009
    Posts: 633

    niceguyede
    Member
    from dallas

    I needed a bullseye pick and I didn't want to spend 150 on one, so I made one outta scrap I had around the garage.

    Sent from my LG-P769 using H.A.M.B. mobile app
     

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  19. budd
    Joined: Oct 31, 2006
    Posts: 3,478

    budd
    Member


    i have a factory made pantograph flame cutter, i can also use my machine plasma torch on it, it sure is handy, i have used it to make header flanges a few times, the exhaust holes are cut first with the flange cut last, worked great, your next step is to install some stepper motors and go cnc
     
  20. @budd I can also use my plasma on it as well. It only takes a minute to change from oxy to plasma or visa-versa. CNC would be good...but I am happy with the end result. I will use it for cutting various patterns for various jobs. It is probably the best tool I have made over the years. The only thing I will do extra is get another motor for speed as the 1 I have got runs at 7.5rpm. It will be ok for thicker material when the need arises.

    Thankyou for your comments.

    Mtw fdu.
     
  21. hendo0601
    Joined: Aug 24, 2013
    Posts: 288

    hendo0601
    Member
    from Tacoma, WA

    Years ago while building a 1957 DeSoto and repop floor pans were just not available I decided to make my own, but I didnt want just flat steel because that is flimsy so I got creative. I took a large sack and filled it with lead shot and laid it on the floor or the bench...I marked my lines on the steel where I wanted the beads, set that area on top of the bag of lead shot and took a ball peen hammer with the round end on the steel I whacked the flat end with a dead blow hammer, it created a nice round divot and I just continued whacking the ball peen hammer until I had the desired length bead. It was crude but effective, and a technique I still use to this day.

    Jon
     
  22. budd
    Joined: Oct 31, 2006
    Posts: 3,478

    budd
    Member

    heres a couple pics of a header flange pattern, the small squares in the middle i go around the outside, then finish the flange by going around the inside of the outside pattern, my wheel is 1/2" dia so i allow for the wheel and the kerf of the cut, they turned out really nice. i have built a 8ft by 4 ft cnc table but i just do not have the room yet to set it up.
     

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  23. @budd Now you are giving me ideas of what I can do with mine. The possibilities are endless. Cheers for showing the pics.

    My table is very small. It is only 1 metre x 1 metre square...still big enough for what I need.

    The way I would cut the same would be to use a metal gasket to fit the appropriate flange...they are slightly smaller than the flange itself thus making the flange to the same size after cutting. Using the metal gasket as a pattern.

    Mtw fdu.
     
    Last edited: Aug 24, 2013
  24. Barn Find
    Joined: Feb 2, 2013
    Posts: 2,312

    Barn Find
    Member
    from Missouri

    It only took a few minutes to assemble this hub puller for a Diamond T.

    [​IMG]
     
  25. budd
    Joined: Oct 31, 2006
    Posts: 3,478

    budd
    Member

    what i did was to draw the cast iron exhaust manifold's outer shape plus about 5mm extra, then draw the cylinder head exhaust openings plus the material thickness of the new header tubing, that way the tube to flange welds end up on the head side and the openings will match the heads, i also cut my own gaskets.



     

  26. Very cool!!! :cool::cool:

    Mtw fdu.
     
  27. oldgoaly
    Joined: Oct 22, 2004
    Posts: 562

    oldgoaly
    Member

    This just sucks!
    I hate cleaning up the Bridgeport and lathe, a chip brush and a pan, spend more time cleaning up than making the mess!. Well I had to do something. So 1st version worked but the smaller diameter hoses clogged with swarfs, so made version 3 (version 2 doesn't fit any hoses???? note to self don't ask the kid to measure if you want it done right!)
    Used a 6 gallon bucket to hold more, added a 3/8" plywood board to stiffen the top. Use a bucket that had liquids in it as some dry goods do not have a seal for the lid. Fittings are glued together and silicone sealed.

    The hoses are different than pvc pipe fitting so made a adapter

    Ver3adapters01.jpg

    my take on a baffle to keep junk out of the shop vac

    version3inside1.jpg

    elbow is trash inlet, center is to the vacuum

    version3inside2.jpg

    shop vac is a Sear/Craftsman from the mid 70's with a paper filter

    ver3setup.jpg

    1st time cleaning out the separator, about 2 gallons of swarfs and crap.

    version31stcleanout01.jpg

    only dust and some light foam crap made it to the filter, even though I knocked it over while it was running a few times

    version31stcleanout02.jpg

    This works, I don't see the need to make a cyclone separator, the baffle does fine keeping the swarfs from piercing the filter. This may ruin my image as a slob but it is sure nice to have a clean mill and lathes! Takes less time to clean as it does to make the mess! Such a simple thing to keep from blowing a filter! Yes I've blown two filters with that vac, one cleaning old oil furnace that I was halfway inside and the little old lady that owned the home had to poked me with a broom stick. The other was cleaning a coke machine using CO2 on one side, vac is one the other side. Yep it blew the filter again and the little old lady that owned the tavern had to poked me with a broom stick! I wish I had made this years ago!
    So listen to that great American philosopher Jerome Curley Howard "Keep on sucking til success!"
     

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