Rustoleum Paint

A picture is worth 10,000 words. Your truck looks great.

 

I wondered how you got that color. I like it a lot.

Here's mine. Rustoleum rattle can Oregano satin. My truck looked like CRAP when I got it. No, it was not "patina" it was shitina!

I didn't want the standard gray or red oxide primer, found Duplicolor self etching primer in a sort of avocado color. Big mistake. It faded badly, looked like hell. Redid it in the Oregano and I've been happy. My plan? I have no space to do a full tear down, can't have a derelict in the driveway so I am doing Everything on it before cosmetics. I retire in 2-4 years and will blow it all apart then for "real" paint.

BEFORE:


NOW:

 

Been there done that. I painted this with White Rustoleum from Home Depot and some 4" foam rollers.

I did it because I always like trying ways of doing things new things. My dream job would be on the MythBusters show. I read about it on the internet and decided to give it a shot on my truck.

 

Looks good to me. If you're happy with it, everyone else can go screw.

When they're sending me checks, they can tell me what I SHOULD do.

 

I saw a article where a guy painted a Corvair with Rustolelum with a roller. Set it in the sun for a couple days, repainted in the opposite direction. Did a few times , wet sanded and buffed it out . Looked great. He had a couple years on the paint and it was holding up fine.
If I remember he was in calif.

 

I used Rustoleum on a frame. Thinned with acetone and sprayed. Took a while to cure, month maybe, but it's hard as rock now.

 

i guess it's a good thing i wasn't trying to please you.......

 

The magic of the internet. None of those Rusto jobs have any gloss to them and some look down right splotchy. How do we know you really used box store paint and a roller? What proof do you have? You would have better luck selling ice cream to Eskimos.

 

I will pass on a trick that I stumbled on. I have a fiberglass shop and have used Rustoleum on the underside of some of the pin-on hoods that I make, well the stuff sucks and never dries. But then theres 1 guy that comes into my shop all the time and buys supplies and always asks for extra hardner. This would be the MEKP resin hardner that you can get at any marine supply store. Then 1 day last Summer I just had to ask " What the frig to you need some much hardner for especially in this heat" Then he had told me he used it in Rustoleum Paint. Well I tried it and it kinda reminds me of Lucus Oil " It Works"

 

Anyone try mixing rustolium and laquer thinner yet and shooting it with a spray gun???...Let us know how it turned out!!!..

 

Don't. The lacquer thinner could emulsify (is that a word?) the undercoat. Why not just thin it per the directions on the can? With Acetone.

 

Thanks!

 

Thanks, man. That's the cool thing about Rustoleum....you can experiment with colors and it won't cost you a fortune. I dig your truck, that color is different than the usual colors you see on them.

 

Exactly!!!! LOLOL!!!

For lo-buck, it works great. Kind of hard to spend as much on paint as you have in the car, or sometimes come up with that much money at one time.

 

That is fantastic!!!

 

He he he... I love this.

I have painted all kinds of stuff with it too. My 32 Ford Fordor is at the blasters right now and in few weeks, will be ready for paint and it will get a Rustoleum or Valspar job.

That green truck above proves that with proper prep you can get a good driver quality finish.

I like it because it is easy to spot or repair if a rust bubble pops up or something.

Try spotting a metallic base coat - clear coat job outside in an afternoon. Not easy.

Also, you can spray it with a simple dust mask and not get freakin' nerve damage or cough a lung out 2 years down the road.

I mix it 4 to 1 with acetone and then pour a capful of the hardener in, stir it up and spray it with a cheap Harbor Freight gun at about 35 psi.

It will dry through in a few hours if you mix it right. Aircraft stripper turns it into pancake syrup in about 30 seconds when you want to remove it. Then you can just power wash it off.

It's not for every car or project but it works great when used right.

 

all primer-ed...and first coat of color...

 

Rustoleum Rattle-can, "Rusty Metal Primer" I've been using it for 30 years because it's da bomb! It has fish oil in it and I like the color too!

 

So, what's next????.......
Painting your car er truck with a Magnum power sprayer???..
I've always wanted to try that...

 

ive done it and it works fine , dries a bit faster

but as someone else mentioned you need to be sure whats under it will take the thinners

 

Sure, why not? Use whatever method you want, it matters little HOW the paint is applied. As long as you know what you're doing, the finish can end up great.

 

I have painted several cars with rustoleum, its a good base to paint over later... like a year or 2 later. the trick to getting it to dry is several thin coats with 12-24 hours between them. Rusto does not have a recoat window so you do not have to sand it to spray over the first coat and have it stick. also to the OP you can get a siphon feed spray gun with a 2.0 tip for about 30 bucks, thin the rusto down about 10% with acetone and you can get a slick finish with decent fill.

 

I suppose you could still be skeptical but here's a shot of my car with the roller in the pic after putting the first coat on the front fender. You can clearly see it is masked for paint, but only around the edges of stuff. Would be no protection if the paint was sprayed.

 

Here's a shot after the 3rd coat. You can still see the minimal masking.

 

I'm not the typical know-it-all in your face HAMBer who shoots of his fingers typing smart ass replies instead of offering something that is actually helpful or going off the deep end about safety warnings but why would you spray any kind of paint without a respirator? Even a product that seems as simple as Rustoleum has harmful chemicals. Also you mention you add a "capful of the hardener" , right there you added an extremely nasty chemical, basically super glue, to the mix. If you are going to do it "right" do it safely.

When I was young and foolish in my first job in a body shop I was exposed to activated paint fumes, not a fun experience. That was 30 years ago and very vivid in my memory.

 

Here's the Corvair painted in 2006

http://www.rickwrench.com/index79master.htm?http://www.rickwrench.com/50dollarpaint.html

And Hot Rod magazine's article

http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/body/hrdp_0707_1962_ford_falcon_budget_paint_job/viewall.html

 

A Rustoleum or Valspar paint job is better is better than no paint if you can't afford to use automotive paint. A lot better, IMO, than a "patina" finish.

I just couldn't tolerate waiting 12 hours between coats and wet sanding before each coat when using a roller. I can spray a Valspar paint job within a couple of hours and it'll be dry to touch in another hour, fully cured pretty much over night, with hardener.

 

Started with this........And the final results....

 

Sorry, should have mentioned I'm spraying in an open air carport and when I mix it up out of the quart jar with hardener I DO use a good mask.

I only use a true dust mask when using rattle cans for touch ups or small parts.

Good point...

 

The 'hammertone' black is not black.

its dark grey metalic. Don't be fooled by the label.