Take a bit of time and read some of the threads on 94s here on the H.A.M.B. The reason I say that is that in a lot of cases with progressive linkage, the power valves to the outers are removed completely leaving just the center valve to value properly for vacuum. There seems to be lots of ways to set them up. Following Dreddybears? thread a couple months ago, I set up a pair to take modern Holley power valves, and they wored seemlesly.
Grits-will do, I'll give you a call tomorrow. Tell the missus happy moms day! Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2
back in the day the 283 wasbored to .125 all the time this started with roundtrackers chev finnally built one for thecamaro to ntxcustoms as everbody has said have the best rad you can in the truck and no prolonged idle just my $,02 worthand keep us posted. as far as ford in aford your combo was burnin up the streets long before ford bui;t a hipo 289 tom
Yep, 4 inch bore 327 crank = 327, it's pretty simple math. Make sure you have a serious radiator for it. I'd go with the 327 dampener and pulleys unless you want to pass it off as a 283 like the old cheaters did
I was thinking of doing it up like my high torque 327 truck block, alpine green and white Corvette ram horns. I'm using a low mount braket for the alt so its out of the way. I will be using the smaller dampener. It's on the run stand now and I'll post of vid when I turn it over. Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2
283 bored to 4" bore, 283 crank (forged), 327 1/4 cam = 301 cu screamer The hot set up (and the basis) of the 302 DZ motor I still have seven forged Jahns hi compression pistons & rods for a 301 - don't ask what happened to #8
You dropped it on the ground and bent the skirt... I knew it!... Sorry that happened dude... Shit happens!
Saw this thread came back up. I have the 283 up and running and it is a blast! Running in my 31 coupe with 3x2 97 carb set up on top. Does not overheat at all in traffic or with the pedal down....would build another in a heart beat and I'm actually gathering up the parts now...
As far as radiator goes I had one built for my channeled coupe. This rad is small enough to fit in a 30 shell with about 5 inches cut out of it, shorter than a mustang radiator. All copper and brass 4 core. No heat issues.
If the 3X2 is set up with progressive linkage, as most are, I don't think vacuum should be an issue. A 283 .125" overbore was about 301.5 cubic inches. Hotrodders and drag racers called them 301's, and Chevy called the same bore and stroke combination a 302. --- Steve ---
Does anyone have the straight poop on 283 cyl. wall thickness? I know all the early 283s could safely be bored to 4" to make a 301. But I have read that later 283s (not sure what years) had thinner walls & could only go 1/16" over. This thread is the first I have heard of late 283s using a 327 block with a smaller bore! Am looking for facts... I have a '66 283 block & am wondering if I can safely bore it to 4". Thanks for all replies!!
I am glad I stumbled onto this post... I built one of these engines in High School Auto mechanics, and put it in my 68 Camaro. The guy I sold it to still has it and engine is still untouched since I built in in 1983.... Wall thickness can be bored to 4 inch, then 2:02 feulie heads can be used... I love these small high winding engines.....
Nope! Don't do it!!!... Find a low mileage small journal 327 block to lay the 283 crank in... It much cheaper than paying a shop to bore out the 283... And then find out the boring head cut into a water jacket...
Have at. Again mine is an early 283 with 327 crank, bored 4".The builder made a bunch of these back in the day and I'm glad he put mine together before he retired. Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2
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