I added a bottle of Water Wetter to my radiator last week and wow! It works as advertised! I don't know why I haven't done this sooner. Back when we did it on all the LBCs. My question is.... Now my temp seems to be coming up crazy slow. Has my cooling system really seen that much of an improvement or is it interfering with my temp gauge? I have a cheapo Sunpro mechanical temperature gauge. Car still tries to get too hot in traffic. I think that will only be fixed with a better fan. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
My Biscayne had a mechanical gauge and it was terribly slow. My oil pressure gauge was mechanical too. One day. the braided line for my oil pressure gauge gauge shorted on a wired. That short sliced right through the braided line so I replaced both gauges with electrical. They both read instantaneously and I was much happier. I used Purple Ice. The speed shop I went to recommended Purple Ice. They said Water Wetter isn't good for an aluminum radiator. My last one sprung a leak.
Average I'd guess about 20*, it takes way longer to come up to temp too. About fifteen minutes or so in traffic before I feel the need to flip the fan on. Before cruising temp was around 190, now the gauge hovers between 160 and 180. Stuck in traffic it still wants to climb up to 200, 210. I know that's due to not having room for an engine fan or a big enough electric. I do want to swap to better gauges, this is the three for twenty set, but was wondering if the stuff may coat the sender and cause bad readings? Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
I wonder why Water Wetter isn't good for aluminum? We used it in the Brit race cars but they all ha stock type radiators. I saw the Purple Ice and something called -20 on the shelf too but went with the Redline since its what I have experience with. Neal used it and he's probably the best mechanic I've ever known. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
I used water wetter in my drag car. Alluminum heads, intake and radiator.... Never an issue, Howeve I flushed the block 3 times a year, and did antifreeze in the winter.
Here's a little info for ya! www.redlineoil.com/content/files/tech/WaterWetter Tech Info.pdf I've used Water Wetter in my 51' for 13 years without an issue, good product. I also use it in my tig welder's water cooled torch cooler system. Mixed distilled water with the ratio recommended and have had no problems.
I work on several circle track cars and we use water wetter with much success. And then to I have a Amsoil distributor for a product sponsor.
We're in Arizona and use Water Wetter religiously. Even on 115°+ days (of course coupled with shrouded fans and in some cases additional puller or pushers) we run thermostat temps and can easily survive a number of traffic signal cycles before things start to go over thermostat temps. But as you noticed with warm-up slowness, heat-up from at temp is slower as well and stays within acceptable levels (under boiling). Among a half dozen cars and trucks that use it, we see between 10° and 15° lower temperatures... All that said, this stuff works. The biggest mistake we see in terms of cooling is either worthless shrouds, or no shroud at all...
Guess I'm doing something wrong, as I put Water Wetter in and saw no change. Decided my cooling system must be too large, so added a 2nd bottle, and no change. I'm running almost pure water with it, so antifreeze isn't an issue.
^^^me too- tried it in several different cars and it made absolutely no difference whatsoever so I figured it's snake oil. Nowadays I use Evans NPG+ waterless coolant for new builds. If I can power flush/evacuate the glycol based coolants on existing cars I may use it there too. The beauty of it is a 375*F boiling point and not having to run a pressurized cooling system. And it does not corrode aluminum components either- unlike Glycol Ethylene based coolants.... www.evanscooling.com
what's wrong with 200' - 210' sitting in traffic? i apologize in advance if this thread turnes into a flame war on what the proper temp is for your motor
210 sitting doesn't worry me much. It's when the needle keeps climbing past that. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Used Water Wetter in my road race car for 15 years with aluminum radiator and no problems. Can't say how much cooler it ran as I never used antifreeze ( illegal with SCCA road racing). Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
A stock or close to stock auto on the highway you might not see the difference. But on my circle track pavement race cars I can tell a difference. this is 90 degree plus outside temp, On pavement close racing rpm range 5700 to 7500 . I see more than 10 degrees difference. before 205 now range 190 to 195.. I can speak for any one else but I have had very good luck using these products.. Bobby
I got some of this today just to see what would happen. It took a bit longer to get to it's normal operating temp, but once there, it stayed there. Now, this was a 7:00PM and a temp of 95 degrees. I'll take a drive tomorrow during the day, when it's 100 degrees.
just bought the lucas stuff cant tell no difference? we have used the purple ice and seen temps drop atleast 10-12* on a OT cars intercooler temps! seen it dyno proven! I'm gonna try the purple Ice next?
Okay, I took a drive around 4pm with the intent to get stuck in traffic. The temp was 99 with a heat index of 105. Usually, in Houston, traffic in my area gets a little thick around this time. Today, all I could muster was a 10-15 minute sit at an intersection, but I wasn't trying to get into REAL heavy traffic. I do not have a shroud and my radiator is a 2 core aluminum. It took longer to reach my normal temp of 160. So long, I almost thought my gauge was broken. Normally, in traffic, my temp would have risen from it's usual 160 degrees to 200. Today, it went up to 190 and stayed there. As I drove off, it quickly dropped to 160 again. When I got back home, I idled in the driveway for 20 minutes. The temp rose to 210 and leveled off. I continued idling for another 10 minutes with no rise above 210. So far, so good. The real test will be in slow moving traffic. Sitting at idle, I'm at 900 RPM. Under load is 650 RPM. It will be interesting to see the sitting results at 650 RPM. So, my results do show a slight cooling with Redline Water Wetter. Reading the website, it seems like the recommendation is 25% coolant and 75% water. My system is 50/50, but that's guess measuring. I suppose a more thorough test would be to use Redline's 25/75 ratio. I'll wait until I get a slow traffic test before I drain, flush and reinstall fresh coolant and water.
I am wondering how all these roundy cars are getting away with a cooling additive when, in most tracks, even antifreeze isn't allowed. Different rules?
i hav a griffin alumn. rad and use distilled water&havoline antifreez with water wetter on a 383 stroker with alumn. heads&intake. my traffic temps are @185 to 195 on hot days with a haden 7 blade fan with no shroud. consider the distilled water if you are not using it. been doin this for 15 yrs now.............................
Glycol based anti-freeze eats asphalt when it's hot. Water wetter is basically soap (breaks surface tension), so it does no damage to the track.
A few weeks ago I was in AutoZone and decided to give Water Wetter a try in my 27. I have to say I see no difference at all, my gauge rides in exactly the same place it has for years. I guess it is like everything else, some people swear by it and some swear at it. Don
more like its slick as snot and a pain to clean up . as you have to use soda ash to break its surface tension then sop it up multiple times to get it dry . and also removes any type of spray adhesion they spray on the tracks surface . ( drag racing )
About a week ago, I replaced a non functioning thermostat. I also redrained my coolant and went with Water Wetter, 25% anti-freeze and 75% distilled water. Results.... regular running temp of 160 degrees stayed the same, but gets there a little later. At a traffic light, 180 degrees and rising, in about 2 minutes. As far as I'm concerned, it's not working. Now, I also do not have a shroud and new fan yet, but I'm doing that this weekend, hopefully. But unless that has a drastic cooling effect, Water Wetter is the bunk. At least it's fairly cheap.
Water wetter is fine for aluminum rads. People need to read the tech sheet on the site. It protects against corrosion and lubricates water pumps. Also it's not magic in a bottle you have to have a clean block, clean radiator and good timing . With that said I run it with distilled water in my flathead with a aluminum rad and heads and it's cool all day everyday in stop and go traffic in the so cal heat.check all other things that contribute to higher temps first before rushing to a solution in a bottle
Old thread but I'd much rather have a mechanical gauge than an electric gauge as I have seen too many electric gauges that weren't even close to accurate in the past. My buddy swore that the engine in his Model A roadster was running at 260 but he could pull the radiator cap off with it showing 260 and it didn't even let any steam off let alone scald him as it should have. Putting a temp gauge in the radiator neck showed that it was running right at what the thermostat was rated at. Here I'd have to think that the stuff is working exactly as advertised in the OP's vehicle and worth bragging rights to the manufacture. There is also the chance that he flushed some crud out of the cooling system if he drained the coolant out before putting the water wetter in with fresh water.
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