air baggit questions????

Im gunna be baggin my f100 farelly soon and I found a set thats the right sizes I need wondering the opinions on these , advice , and if anybody knows a different manufatuer that makes bags in fhe same height I hafta have tripple bellows and double bellows

Any help apreciated thanks
Heres the link

http://www.airbagit.com/product-p/bag-free-8x.htm

 

Dont use air bagit stuff search the board there are other companies like slam specialties bags smc or parker valves never had a good experience with airbagit parts

 

Wow.

 

search "hoffman" on here. or anywhere for that matter.

 

bags schmags

 

All junk. Stay away.

 

Do they all have actual good websites and im worried I wont be able to find a triple tall enough the front im not as worried

 

Why do you need a bag that tall?

 

I want it to sit the same way it does now when fully aired but drop down when I flip a switch cause I like the rake it has now

 

Why does anyone need a triple bag when standard practice is to use a steel tube to fill a space?

 

And I need a triple because I need all of that travel to go high enough and low enough

 

I am in my 14th year of bagging vehicles, full-time. I have not ever once used a triple convoluted bag. I could post hundreds of pictures of vehicles going from well above stock ride height, to metal-on-ground, with nothing ever larger or taller than a Slam Specialties SS-8.

 

It would be interesting to many HAMBer's to see pictures of the front suspension geometry that requires that travel. Maybe it is to equal the travel of hydraulics, but i believe even that has been duplicated already with double convoluted.

 

Yes, please. Pictures, please.

 

I have been bagging customs & offroad race cars & trucks for over 25 years and have only needed to use the tripple bellow bags on the long travel offroad builds. I see you have a 1965 F100 and if you have the stock twin I beam front suspension you are bagging the slam specialty SS-8 should do the job or if you need a little more travel check out universial air's long double bellow. Oh I personally would not bag a twin I beam suspension but it can and has been done. If it was my truck and i wanted it to lay frame I would clip it with a 2nd gen Camaro like i just did for my fathers uni F100 and my old 65 f250

Rick Erickson / Extreme Kustoms 951 678-3520

 

I agree on airbagits website..... it blows to navigate around inside it.

I'm running (4) 2600lb D-dominator bags from Airbagit and so far so good, I like them cuz at collapsed height is 4.875" and maxed out is a hair over 12" --- I had so much travel I ran into issues with the front balljoints didn't have enough swivel (issue fixed now) but in back after C notch I can use all the travel.

Like everyone else said above, I can't see anywhere you would want anything over double bellow bags....

I guess you could check out Kelderman air ride's website, they do air rides to trucks that have crazy suspension travel!

 

The longest hydraulic cylinder I've ever put in the front of a vehicle is 8", and that maxes out the travel. I personally wouldn't bag an ibeam truck, the geometry gets all fucked up. And I would never use a triple convoluted either, that's just silly


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Im not worried about the front im worried about the back being stock if not a little higher and then lay bed do you have any sugestions or ideas on how to do this any help id love maybe some sites or pictures , the front I know it makes em cber I have chopped spring and for some reason I kinda like the way it profiles with my bullets straight in the back and angled up in the front and for some reason with the camber it hsndles damn good , ive researched doing g body clip and not the route I want to do this go maybe in a few years but im 19 now and have a gravel drive way I kinda just want to bag it and beam it and id be happy then if I feel like it clip it later , anyways back to the top any help helps greatly

 

I was just gunna use dkubles in the front , and tripples in the rear I orignally heard bag over bar was bad so thats when I started lookin into triples any bag over bar set UPS that would work well from stock to slamed , lengths bags ive been hearing good things about the slam ss-8 , allso curious which is better wishbone top or independent triangulated bars ?

 

I apreciate the help guys I really do

 

Bag-over-bar works very well, just as long as your bars are up to the task.

Wishbone or separate triangulated uppers work very well. I most often do separate bars.

Want good stuff, made in USA (not like Airbagit)?

Look here: http://thorbros.com/front_page

Look for their: http://thorbros.com/4-link-kits/super-lift-triangulated-4-link-kit

Rock solid stuff. Worth the money.

 

Shown here, on one of my customer's rides, which later went on to be a bag-on-bar setup, with HUGE travel:

 

Kool,man thanks im allso under the usumption the longer the bar the better as my math mind tells me it will give it a much higher ratio of heights , how close do you think I should run the bag to the joint and what length bars do you usally use , sorry fot all the questions I just want to do it right once in the rear

 

I tend to run the longest bars that can be fit in the chassis, without running into something. It will depend on your specific vehicle setup. Go as long as you can.

The same goes for how far up the bar the bag goes. The SS-8 bag has 10.3" of stroke. The farther up the arm, away from the axle that you mount it, the longer travel you will have at the axle. The best way to figure out the exact location is to build the 4-link and install it. Put the truck at minimum and maximum desired height. Find a place on the arm where 10.3" of stroke will satisfy that range.

Make sure that your maximum upper height takes into account removing and reinstalling a tire and wheel combo of the type/size you intend to use. I can't tell you how may setups from customers, or other shops that I have had to do over, because you cannot change a flat, without unbolting the bags, to get enough height to get the wheel/tire out.

 

The plan is to be at full stock hight if not higher when aired up but on the ground when the valves flipped

 

For the rear i personally prefer and use 2 link and will not think about doing a tri 4-link with anything with more than 6" of travel as it puts allot of load on the upper bushings plus you have 8 pivot bushing to fail plus the upper bars will get in the way of your beds floor. On your F-100 you do not have to put one of those monkey see monkey do big ugly U notch kit's just get 2 pice's of 2" x 3" x 3/16 wall box tubing about 16" long and weld them on top of the frame then weld on side gusset plate and cut out the old frame section over the axle and it will easily lay frame. On a 2 link most people think the arms needs to be real long but that's not true but if you want 10" of real world wheel travel the bars will have to be around 42" min. On my 53 F-100 and my dads 63 F-100 both easily lay frame and have 8" of real world usable wheel travel with SS-7 bags and the bars are only 36" long. Sorry i do not have pic's on the computer as my 53 was bagged 18 years ago and is still my daily parts chaser and my fathers 63 was just done but it was one of those getter done jobs so no time for pics but it was done like i do all my kustoms so i can show you them for and example. Also we only had to raise the floor of the bed up 2" so you still can use it as a truck and there is no ugly hump to look at. Also i set the drive shaft yo pinon angle at -1 (down) at full lifted so as you lower the truck the pinion angle rolls down so the drive shaft lowers so there no drive shaft clearnce issues and i know people will say this will not work but i can tell you i will as i have done it this way for over 20 years and on allot of cars and trucks with no u-joint issues.

Rick Erickson / Extreme Kustoms 951 678-3520

 

That's pretty clever using the 2 links to rotate the driveshaft down. I suppose there is a certain air bag pressure that puts the pinion/u joints at the theoretical same angles.

I recall when I was redoing my tunnel, I was driving around without a rear tunnel. I could look back there and see the rear end (on leafs) rotating up and down like crazy when speeding up and slowing down. I wonder how important it is to get the pinion angle perfectly matching.

 

Two-link setups can work really well, too. Just make sure that they are properly built. EXK can provide the specs for the arms and bushings that survive well in this application.

You will want your panhard bar to be as long as the chassis/bodywork can accommodate. If your particular setup calls for very long travel, with large, very tight-fit tires, a Watts-link might be worth considering, as it does not have the same side-to-side axle swing of a panhard bar. If not, a panhard bar is just fine.

I use the off-the-shelf C-notches, as most of my customers want rocker/running board/frame, all the way on the ground, or as close as is fiscally possible. They are not necessary, but they are damned quick to trim and install in the production environment.

 

All driveshafts with classic u-joints rotate at an irregular speed, as a function of the rotation joint having two planes of movement, when operated at an angle, becoming greater, the greater the operating angle.

The principal of matching the angles is the best attempt to cancel out that irregular movement, by counteracting each joint's movement, with an near-equal movement, by the other joint.

Now I did say near-equal. Even in a static operation (no suspension movement), there will still always be some vibration in the system. The further that the the two angles, on a two joint shaft, deviate from each other, the greater the vibration will be.

For the most part, this vibration is minimal, and is dampened by the suspension bushings, tires, body mounts, your seat, etc., before you ever feel it. Not to mention that a truly smooth road is a bit hard to find in most places.

As long as that vibration is within the capability of the attendant systems to dampen, you won't feel it, so the range of potential misalignment of the joint angles varies by the setup of each vehicle, but can be quite broad.

Worst case, the u-joint life will be shortened, somewhat. They are inexpensive, and fairly easy to change. If that is every 5-years, instead of 7, no real harm. If you can't feel it, don't worry about it.

 

What's the point of triple convoluted if it says it has to operate straight up and down or it will bow in the middle? Why is it even convoluted then?
I've had OK luck with airbagit. Their shipping department seems inept at times.
The point about their crap being made overseas is kindof a moot point since most airbag crap is made outside this country. I don't have experience with their bags though. Like everyone else is suggesting I run slam specialties and dominators.
Why do you want so much lift?