Hot Rods 1930 Model A highboy build journal

Love the Frame. Keep up to good work.

 

OK, been bouncing around a few things as I am now in limbo.

The new 32 frame wont be here for 3 weeks so I decided to turn my attention to some misc items...

First, the wishbone. I split it and welded the bungs in place. The photos below document the process but essentially I cut the bones, trimmed one to ensure they were both an identical length. Chamfered the ends to help weld penetration, drilled some holes for bung welds and welded away. I will try to decide what finish I will give to suspension parts etc in time but for now will dress the welded area a little and paint to prevent rust, then, on to the next job...the Buick drums.

 

OK, Buick drum conversion.

I thought I would be able to get the drums and hubs ready for machining but it seems I goofed. I hhave 1940 hubs and need 46-48 hubs. For those reading this that are, like me, new and wondering what the difference is. It is simple, the 1940 hubs fit inside the drums and the 1946-1948 hubs fit outside the drums. Those that fit inside the drums required some machining which could weaken them. So, I bought a pair of 46-48 hubs this morning through HAMB and will wait for them.

In the mean time I decided to remove the Buick drums from their hubs. Drilled out the rivets and persuaded the drum off. Be careful whe doing this in case you damage the drum.

I gave the drums a bit of a clean. They came up nice BUT the finish is rough. I am assuming polishing or some kind is in order. I will research.

Next step? Well, once the 46-48 hubs arrive I will send them and the drums off to the machine shop. They will need to do two things. First, remove a little metal around the outside of the steel line (see final photo below. This allows the drum to sit into a groove around the outside of the backing plate. They will also have to enlarge the center hole in the Buick drums for a snug fit (apparently a 1-3 thou interference fit) to the Ford hubs.

Then, when I get them all back, I will need to drill new holes through the Buick drum to match the Ford hubs. I can use the old rivet holes to bolt the drum to the hub. That should have it done.

 

What else? Well, I fab'd up some wheely dollies so that the 9 inch axle is precisely at ride height. Makes the axle (and ultimately the frame) mobile and allows me to see the stance as it comes together and make adjustments if necessary. Stole the idea for these from Rolph.

Again, things are a little on hold until the new rails arrive. I will try to get the 30 frame finished as far as the boxing goes so I can move it to one side and focus on the 32 frame.

 

Final post for today... my new rear sub frame rails arrived. These, or some home made derivation, are needed to fit the earlier body on to the 32 frame. They are super quality and will hopefully make the job far easier.

 

I lied, one more post...

Starting stripping the rear end of the body to keep busy whilst listening to the amazing FA Cup Final.

Will remove a couple more panels tomorrow but other than that, I am done for the weekend. The reason? I bought a roadster, see last photo! Decided I couldn't let the summer go by with my not being able to enjoy a rod. I take delivery tomorrow lunchtime...

 

Very cool hot rod

 

Posting an update as much as anything to make me feel better about the current lack of progress...

I am starting to realize the everything, at least for me, take several times longer than expected. I can hardly believe it is June and really, little has been achieved since I started in January. I have been working on my wife's MGA the last several months which is something of an excuse but seriously, 6 months and little to show for it other than stripping the body/frame down...

The shift in direction in switching from the original rails to a 32 frame cost me several weeks. The good news, it arrives tomorrow. I can then start afresh. It is already boxed and with an adjustable crossmember so I can, I think, step forward to attaching front and rear suspension and finding how the hell to shoehorn a 322 nailhead between the grill and firewall. I see some major firewall surgery in my near future which is a shame as it is both original and in mint condition as you can see from photos on page 1.

I sent my Buick drums and 46-48 hubs out for machining Friday and they should be back to me today/tomorrow. Hope to God those guys dont screw them up, Buick drums aren't cheap. If they dont screw them up I will be in a position to assemble the front axle/hubs next weekend!!

I was thinking about sending the nailhead off for machine work but instead I will keep it to mock up motor mounts etc. Once they are done I will let it go.

Ordering wheel bearings from Macs today so I am ready for the weekend. Will post photos of the newly arriving frame tomorrow, I hope!

Oh, and I have been spending hours looking at various cars here on HAMB desperately trying to nail down wheel/tire size. I am steering (no pun intended) towards 700*16 and EITHER 450*16 or 600*16 fronts. Am divided over it...

 

great build... subscribed ..

 

Hey Wex, I followed your other post about the 32 frame you received. Don't get discouraged, you're off to a great start. Some of the best stuff is made when you go back and change something because it isn't exactly what you wanted.

Hang in there.

Aaron

 

Any details on the Roadster?

 

After yet another lengthy delay I am hopefully in a position now to start building up the frame.

I had a 2 month delay after the initial 32 frame I ordered was, being diplomatic, not what I ordered. I got a new one from Dropped Axle Productions and it is superb.

Here are some shots of it freshly in from Ohio. I will try to turn it into rolling chassis in the next week or two. Some highlights. I have switched to 35-40 front wishbones to position the axle, they are longer and help with the look and caster setting.

On the rear the axle is held in place with 36 ford rear wishbone radius rods to keep a traditional look.

Will try to get some time on the frame this week and see if I can't at least get the front end together by the weekend.

The new frame has a reinforcing plate beneath the top surface so I can drill and thread it for body mounts. Saves having to insert nuts into an already boxed frame.

Need to put something temporary on the frame to prevent surface rust setting up. Will do so this week.

 

Lookin very good my friend! Subscribed!

 

Cool build, wish you would have stuck with the 30 frame but only because I need all the info I can gather for my build. Dont let that little roadster distract you too much.

Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!

 

Very nice build!

 

Been a productive day despite temps in the mid 90s and high humidity. I managed to get the front end together and most of the rear end, to the point the chassis is 'rolling'...kinda. The 1940 spring I got needs to be rebuilt and being a lazy sod I didn't even look at it till now. So, the rear end is attached courtesy of the shocks and nothing more till the spring is done.

The front end was a breeze except the shocks which are too short. I will measure up what I need, bearing in mind the engine etc will likely lower the front by 1-2 inches I would think. I will re-check to ensure I didn't screw up something on locating the lower shock mounts but they look OK.

I didn't bother installing the brake hardware for this mockup, I dont know what is typical. Seems a waste of time to do that as I will be stripping it all down again once the major components are in place. If there is a reason to install the brakes let me know. I will of course need to install the wheel cylinders so I can hook up the brake lines but the shoes/springs seem OTT?

The wheels are just mules and it is a shame they cover the Buick drums but that is temporary, the drums look great. I am STILL trying to finalize wheel/tire sizes and once I do, I will grab the final wheels so I can tweak my dollies that I use to keep the frame mobile and at ride height.

Steering is also on my list. I have decided on a 48-52 F-1 steering box. Managed to pick one up complete with column and steering wheel for $150. This will require some changes to the existing steering arms. The one on the passenger side is setup for cross steering (which you can just see on the final photo) so I assume that means I simply cut off the second, unnecessary tie rod hole, leaving me with the single rod traversing the car.

So, next steps... rebuild the 1940 spring, work out which and how many leaves to leave in and try to get the rear end properly in place. Then, lower the body onto the frame, using the rear wheels aligned to the wheel arches to position it properly. Then, I suspect I will be cutting the rear end of the body to get the Steadfast Mfg kit in place. Once the body is sitting on the frame, I would imagine lining up the engine is next. Small steps but moving in the right direction finally.

Incredible, had the car 9 months and this is the first time I have felt I am bolting things together instead of stripping things down.

 

Who am I trying to kid. I have the patience of an 8 year old hopped up on sugar.

A semi-rolling chassis and the body sitting 3 feet away? Too tempting!

Put the body up on the lift, rolled the chassis underneath and voila, the mating process.

Almost, the rear needs surgery to allow the '30 steel to sit flush on the frame.

The pinch done by Dropped Axle Productions seems to be solid. Need to line it up perfectly but it looks like it will work just fine!

Again, need to tweak the positioning to get the rear wheel centered in the rear arch but close enough to take a few photos.

VERY HAPPY!

 

A small update. The body is closer to the frame. Managed to find an hour last night to get out to the workshop and cut out the rear body crossmember and a good amount of metal down the siderails. Still need to trim the very rear (circled) to bring the body down lower onto the frame.

This is all part of fitting the Steadfast Mfg kit.


Trying to track down the parts needed to rebuild the 1940 spring and will hopefully have them here for the weekend. Then, I can raise the rear to the proper height.

The jury is out on whether I will retain the original wheel wells. I am sure most will say they are in VERY good condition. I will wait to see how it all comes together.

 

Got sidetracked this weekend with life but managed to spend a couple of hours out on the coupe. I knew things would look worse before they would look better and so here the rear end is, lighter and with less rust.

I have cut out the wheel wells including some odd reinforcing patches that had been brazed into place, hence the cutouts in the well area. I will fill these with some pieces. This is WAY beyond anything I have tackled in the past but I am feeling confident, for now...

Having the lift is a MASSIVE help. Being able to pop the body up in the air whenever I want to work on it is more than a little bit helpful.

Hoping to start tacking in the first wheel well this coming week.

Spent some time practicing butt welding 20 gauge this afternoon and after blowing holes through the first two attempts I realized the trick seems to be a VERY short time duration for the tack, like half a second. That gives a weld that still penetrates. This coming week will tell me whether I need more practice!

Once I get the wheel wells done I will get the rest of the rear together and then look at raising the lower cowl corners an inch to channel the body over the frame and boxing the rest of the side rails.

 

Is it the angle of the camera? or does the rear end need to be moved forward or body back

 

Body and frame not yet fixed to each other. The frame was simply rolled underneath for effect.

 

Opps sorry I just re read your post.....nice build

 

niccccee!!

 

Wex,

You are making progress. Looks great.

 

Well, the build continues, albeit it at a glacial speed.

I have all brakes in and had to get a replacement 46-48 backing plate as I realized one of mine was a rear with cutout for the parking brake. An ad on HAMB and a few bucks later I had a second pair en route.

On the rears I obtained all new brakes and drums from a Bronco restoration place (rear is from en early Bronco) and on the front I got all new parts from a couple of places (Macs and C&FG Ford).The Buick drums were resurfaced for good measure.

Sad confession, I put one of the inside oil seals/caps on BEFORE placing the inner bearing inside and then wondered why the hub wouldn't go into place... New one is on the way and explains the one wheel still off at the front.

I fabricated a little dolly for the engine complete with adjustable studs at each corner so I can adjust it to get it perfectly positioned. Lifted it between the rails to see how much (or little) room I had.

And...well, thats about it.

I will be ordering some flat plate to start making up some motor mounts. The engine needs to slide forward a touch but I will wait till I get the other wheel bearing/wheel back on and the frame is mobile.

Then, mount the motor and gearbox. I will mate a gearbox I have to the engine this week so it is ready to go.

Need to go read about motor placement/angle next to ensure I get the relationship between motor/gearbox and axle correct.

Oh, and the dog tried to help...

 

Quick update for little more reason that to include photos in the build thread.

Will be adding engine peripherals to get a better idea as to correct positioning and how much further the needs to go to the rear and higher.

Will also FINALLY have to bite the bullet and get the wheels/tires so I can mock this all up at correct ride height.

Nice to see the engine roughly where it will go though...

 

OK, a long overdue update and one that I think will surprise a few...

2013 resulted in little work being done to the car and the work that was done was contracted out to a local welder to get the steadfast mfg kit in place....

I run two businesses and down time is sometimes very sparse, this is having a major impact on my progress, or lack of it.

Here we are in March 2014, the steadfast kit is still sitting on a shelf, the car is still pretty much as you see it in the last photos above and my frustration at the lack of progress has caused me to relook at the project and consider how to get to the end goal some time before 20 years!

So, I took the plunge, found a 1930 steel coupe already sitting on a 32 frame, with a 37 flathead, 47 transmission and a 57 rear end. pictures attached. There are things about it I don't like and that is fine. Switching out the brakes, radiator, steering, headlights etc are all manageable tasks that I can accomplish with the time I have. I can clean up the engine significantly too. I can then, next winter, trailer it to someone to get the roof taken down a few inches.

So, I will likely switch my front hubs/Buick finned drums onto this car. Switch out the radiator for a 32, change the wheels as the car has zero stance and a few more things.

I know this seems like surrender but again I am trying to be a realist in terms of what I can get done. I would rather be making SOME progress than staring at a body for the next 5 years.

I will then end up with my original body/frame/nailhead/intake setup and as the weather warms up decide what to do with them... I am sure they will find a good home.

 

Not surrender, just smart! I wish I had the $ to follow this approach. Its very overwhelming to have a project sitting, and this will get you down the road faster.

Good luck with your new, smaller, project.

Posted using a number two pencil on a paper napkin.

 

I kinda figure the money will either be spent in dribs and drabs over the next x years or in one go now. THEN I will continue to spend in dribs and drabs...!

 

Agreed. If it's gonna be spent anyway, what's the point in waiting? And the longer you wait, the more expensive it's gonna be. Life is short - go for the gusto while you can. (Whatever the heck gusto is.)