How do you keep the end of the silicon seal tube from hardening? How do you spray penetrating lube on a bolt without soaking everything in a 6 inch radius? How do you keep from spraying yourself in the face when spraying carb orifices? If you put the extension tube on a can of brake clean, how long before the can gets knocked to the floor and breaks the nozzle off? When filling a waste oil jug from the drain pan, through a funnel, how do you know when the jug is full besides filling the funnel with nowhere for it to go? If you invert a rattle can to clean the tip each time, will you run out of propellant before running out of paint? I actually know the answer to most of these, not that I've learned to practice them, but I really would like to know about the silicon seal.
#1 Put the top back on it until it hardens then punch a hole in the other end a month later when you need it. #2 Spray it clean up the mess later #3 find the safty glasses after the third time of spraying yourself #4 work in the middle of the floor like I do. Then you won't drop it, you'll just roll over it with the creeper #5 I thought that there was suppose to be a oil spot on the ground around that jug? #6 nope! 28
on the silicon i usually take a long bolt or screw down the tip of it, when i go to use it again i pull the bolt out and most of the hardened silicon comes with it.
I use a variation of the water trick. Find some tubing that fits snuggly over the tip and shove a dowel in one end. Put some water (or detergent) in it and cap the tip off with it.
How about losing the extension on the can of carb/ throttle body cleaner inside the throttle body and then using duct tape and a long dowel rod to fish it out. Took me 45 minutes to retrieve it but saved me from having to remove the throllte body from the engine. Now I tape the extension to the nozzle with duct tape.
#1 Who cares? Silicone should be avoided anyway, so letting it get impossible to use helps you avoid using it. #2 Penetrating oil doesn't penetrate very well anyway, just use heat if it's stuck or the good old oil can otherwise. #3 A rag over the carb does a pretty good job. #4 Has never happened to me. Maybe because I put them far away from the edge of the workbench? #5 Check before filling. Lift funnel, recheck. #6 Not yet.
How do you keep the barn find car washing products from drying out between barn finds? That is what we all need to know. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
I have always used masking tape over the end of the tube,,does it work? Apparently not,,I went to use it last week and it was harder than Chinese Arithmetic! HRP
It's fun when the tube on the end of the carb cleaner flies off and past the butterflies into the manifold!
Trouble with that is it's almost impossible to get the screwdriver out after the silicone has hardened. HRP
I don't know about the rest of your questions, but as for the silicon tube I use the largest wire nut I have and seal it tight with electrical tape. It has worked so far.
>>>Can vegans eat animal crackers or gummy bears?>>> No, just those cheese flavored Goldfish. As far as silicone goes, I usually, just leave a little, maybe 1/2 inch hanging out the end of the application receptacle. That hardens to just past the end of the tip and I rip it off and use. Works for both automotive silicone and the latex caulk household stuff. Al in TN
It's only a matter of time now before we see "Eastwood announces, Barn Find Car and Truck Wash". Heck, a whole line of products: Barn Find Scented Air Freshener - For that 'been in the barn for years' smell.
#5- buy the five (5) quart jug at your favorite auto supply dealer. Empty old oil from oil pan into favorite oil-changing catch container. Remove and replace oil filter and drain plug. Add oil from new jug to engine. Once the new jug is empty, CAREFULLY pour old oil from favorite catch container into oil jug. Replace cap on oil jug, mark as used oil with marker and recylce as appropriate for your area and application.
The Jalopy Journal
