any restoration service recommendations to have this 1950-60's delco remy finned 12v coil tested and restored? i want to use it to replace my standard coil. is there anything else that I need to know regarding the points, condenser or any electrical issues I might encounter? thanks brian
On the resistor...you need to find out what was recommended for that coil by Delco. Some coils are wound to run with no external resistance, others need it but there are a number of different resistance values even within just GM applications. Once you find out what the thing needs you can get the right resistance by buying the resistor or resistance wire from NAPA or Standard for the known application. The finned coils are special heavy duty stuff rather than straight OEM tin can types but were sold for use with specific resistance or lack thereof externally. I bought a couple of shells from these things...some fleamarket guy had found a box of NOS ones and gutted them all by just heating til the tar melted and the innards dropped out! The surviving nifty looking shells happened to be a perfect fit for many generic modern tin bodied coils...
Yes, check to see if you can fit a new coil in there. i know of more than one person that has done this. NealinCA comes to mind here on the HAMB
The Delco finned shells I have fit the first two random junk box coils I picked up... internal diameter and depth were perfect with the terminal surfaces in just the right place visually. I'd probably give the thing a road test, though, before gutting it.
hi bruce, thank you so much for your advice on this vintage coil. I called advance electric rebuilders in grand ledge, mi. Jason wanted $300-400 to rebuild it back to spec. I called delco remy support and they don't have any details. they recommended that I call a gm dealer to see if they have any specs. I will have it tested by a local shop to see what kind of values I get and compare them to a new coil. if there is a major difference, then I will gut the shell. how did you remove the metal band around the bakelite? I hate to cut it off.
Don't remove the band. Take a punch or a screwdriver and just puncture right through the "Bakelite". Once you knock the top out, heat the bottom of the metal case and the core will run out. Most standard coils will drop right in. I had to stick a nickle in the bottom to get the new coil to flush out at the top. It leaves about an 1/8" of an inch around the coil, you can put epoxy around the new coil, or I just used a length of peel & stick weatherstrip run around the top of the coil to hold it in place. If you chose to epoxy, the best method is to fill the shell with water, drop the coil in, remove the coil, pour the water in to a glass. Mark the level, then fill epoxy to that level, pour in shell,lower new coil into epoxy and it should finish out well. Hope that makes sense.
My source told me George Skip Haney from Punta Gorda Florida.He has an ad in V8 Times. Phone is 941 637 6698 Days 941 505 9085 Night Ad reads $85 to rebuild.Hope this helps!! Jim F