Anyone have a suggestion for a good stall for my stock 350 with a slightly bumpy cam?1929 Model A with 10 bolt rear for now, and although I have what I think is a 2400 TCI stall in it, I'm still fighting the brakes like hell at the stop lights! It really drags the idle down at stops so I need to keep the rpm's up. Is it because the car is so damn light???
Call a reputable Converter manufacture for good info. You can't go wrong but you will need to supply some info to them. Cam Specs Weight of the car Rear end ratio tire size The same converter will act differently in cars of different weights.
Good advice Deuce. I'm more or less just wondering if anyone has had good results with one stall or another in light model A's.
Put a 3000 in it, that will make a whole new car out of it. Won't pull at lights and will launch harder. Both of my Sons are running 3000 stalls and that is about perfect in a light high hp car with a lumpy cam. Don
What kind of idle speed and manifold vacuum do you have in neutral? You might be able to cure some of this with the tune-up if you can get the idle speed down to a reasonable level. A little more initial timing and the right power valves or metering rod springs, depending on the carburetor, could make a big difference. Manual or power brakes? Maybe not enough vacuum at idle for the brake booster?
Alot of people think they have a good stall converter (1500-2000) but if its 12" its not most 2000-3000 converters are 10". B&M claims 2000 on there saturday nite special but they are more like 1200 and measure 12"
It is a 12", and I really thought it would feel like I was in neutral when at a stop-but nope. And tonight I made sure the fluid level was right, and then took the idle down, in park to get a reasonable setting. Idles great in park but drags down hard when put into drive.
My Son that has the T bucket had a 3000 in it from day one, but my other Son had a 2400 (12 inch) convertor in his rpu at first. He had to bump it into neutral at lights so we swapped it out for a 10 inch 3000 that B & M rates at 2800 - 3200 rpms. It made a world of difference and going down the road you would never know the difference, but it now sits in neutral at lights and the launch is way harder as it lets the cam come up into it's operating range quicker. You really don't have to worry about excessive heat and slippage until you start getting really crazy with the stall, like 4000 or so. Don
I know we discussed that this past weekend but I'm on a budget and have little time to make all the mods
I'm REALLY getting pumped on this-think you might be able to come up with a part number when you have time?
I'm not to the point of having to worry about it yet, but I seem to remember that back in the "good ol' days" they would use 10" Vega converters
Here it is: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/bmm-20413/overview/ Not cheap, and the funny thing is, the smaller the convertor the more they cost . But it really is a good investment. As for the Vega convertors, yep, a lot were used, but they tended to balloon out from putting the hp to them and a lot of them failed. But lots of guys ran them. Don
i have been running a coan 3000 stall for over 20 years in a street strip car,it lets it idle well at a stop light,and lets it rev on launches,but not to much for the highway drives. kind of a good all around piece.
Yah, a guy in my club was offering one to me recently, but I passed. It left too many questions in my head
HP and TQ will dictate the ultimate stall speed of any convertor. As to the Vega convertor, some guys would get a whole season of serious street/drag racing out of em. For what you're doing in such a light car it may just be the best and most economical answer. So many cammed up but truly low HP cars simply can't get the full stall from a performance convertor. The 3500 I bought for my nitrous street racer was closer to 4500. The 5000 Continental I put in it later was more like 5500. Heavy car, big TQ...
We used to run the Vega convertors because you could buy them new from Chevy for about $35 dollars at the time. They'd last about a month and a half if you had a big tranny cooler. Then you go spend another $35 bucks and start all over again. Aftermarket convertors were about $250 and would last almost a full season. Convertors have definitely improved through the years. Get the 3000 stall and have fun.
I read your original post 3 times, if I undertsand it.... your stall is 2400, but your fighting the brake at stop lights? This tells me your stall isn't 2400, its 1200 or less.... TCI like others are companies that have been bought and sold, and now owned by holding companies who mass produce close to advertised products.... Not exact... I have first hand knowledge / experience of this... If you have a manual valve body? roll the car at 5 mph approx... put it in third gear, and press the throttle to the floor, watch your rpms, they will raise then drop.... at the point the start to drop, that is converter flash, or your stall.... I believe you need another spacer separating the stator and impellor... I mentioned this on another thread. There is a company called. Perfect Converter in Walton Hills Ohio. He will split your converter, and set it up right based on your input... cam. compression. vehicle weight ect.... Its cheaper then if you keep buying converters....
A 2400 stall is just slightly above stock, according to B & M, when I consulted with them about my Sons TC. Plus, if you put a 2400 on a small block it is different than putting one on a big block, somehow the extra torque of a big block overcomes some of the stall and you need one with a higher stall. His problem is a somewhat lumpy cam and a light car. Don
i have a 3000 10'' stall in my roadster with a lumpy 354 hemi, i could not be happier with it,idle nice, just notice it is in gear and with 8 carbs it is loose enough that i don't have issus with off idle acceleration. even when cruising one tap of the go pedal and im in the power band, for precaution i added an extra cooler
I just had mine 350 rebuilt with a mild shift kit and had the convertor raised to 2000 rpm. I only have a thumper type cam in my 350.
Ok-put in the B+M Hole-Shot 3000 stall tonight after buying it new from the speed shop right down the block from me. HOLY SHIT IT'S HELL OF A LOT FASTER NOW!!!!!!!! Gears down fine when slowing down and coming to a stop, and the hard pull is A LOT less. But after a mere second or so, the rpm's come way down almost to a stall. (Dies) Now if I shove it up into neutral it will idle nicely, but I was hoping to get away from having to do that. Think maybe I should try taking off the vacuum line to the tranny, plugging it at the manifold, and seeing what it does then??? BTW-kinda late but it is running an Edelbrock dual quad cross ram, with a 480 cam.
You may want to do something opposite of removing the line, like hide a vac canister somewhere. That cam probably allows for very little manifold vacuum at idle. That modulator is there for a reason and you'll hate the shift personality without it.
The modulator controls the shift points and acts as a throttle position sensor or engine load sensor. Low vacuum or deleted as you are thinking will lead the trans to believe you have you are at WOT all the time and it will want to act and shift accordingly no matter what the Rpms. You might want to put a vacuum gauge in line and actually watch the amount of vacuum in comparison to the way the trans acts. You may need to add more vacuum, and for test purposes you can hook a small handheld vacuum pump to the modulator and test drive around with that while you control the amount of vacuum going to the midulator and see if that helps. Don't forget to plug the manifold side of the line while using a vac pump
I was running a 6x2 crossram on my old tudor with a mild 350 and a th 350 trans. The thing wouldn't upshift due to no vacuum. I installed a light spring behind the valve the modulator operated. That worked perfectly. Made the system work as should on waaaay less vacuum.
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