*** June 2013 BANGER MEET ***

Where did you source your parts from?

 

The last one I cut for a guy I got the new V8 PP from speedway.


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I'm in the banger club now too.
'31 slant town sedan.
Tub, that Vicky is bad ass.


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Got my flywheel done by James Rogers @ Dreamwerks in N.Carolina, pressure plate (36 V8) was a swap meet find, resurfaced by my engine builder (Ross Lilleker) in College Station TX.

 

i had a machine shop do the work . surfaced , redrilled , lightened & balance . its been a few years & alot more was done . hard to say what it did . parts are at most venders ............. mine was done on the west coast , but http://waccustoms.com
is good on the east coast .............

 

It just dawned on me, as I was working on my engine, in preparation for next weekend's run arounds at California Speedway, that not only did we fully ground the engine; but the "late great" Jay Steel brazed, to a washer the size of the radiator inlet, a small woven wire connected to a zinc sacrificial anode. In the six years it has been there, I have had no signs of electrolysis, nor erosion.

 

Oh man....It looks killer!! Nice score for sure and i can't wait to see the progress!! That'smy dream "A"!!!!

 

Went to the swap meet in Salem Or. today and walked away with this Winfield carb. The choke will operate, but the other shafts are frozen. Not sure what it was off of, but it has the four to two adapter. Would PB Blaster be a good penetrant to use on the shafts? Could this carb be run as a down draft? Do I feel lucky? Norm

 

What are the stamped numbers on the bowl and throttle body?
If it is an updraft, it can't be used as a downdraft.

 

That's a Winfield model S. As Carter said, if it's an updraft it can't be used as a downdraft and vice versa. Post up the serial number on the bowl and we'll be able to tell.

 

On the carb main body ser-sb b39
on the float ser - sbu313

 

S- Model S
B- "B" Size (flows somewhere between a Stromberg 81 and 97)
U- Updraft

 

That's a BB updraft. Winfield carbs are numbered by size with A being the smallest, then AA, B, BB, C, etc.



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Pretty cool that it has a BB main body and a B float chamber. Using the next size smaller float chamber was a period fix to solve heat-related stumbling issues.

 

Great!! Thanks for the information. Great fathers day. Got this babbitt today also. Seems to be an assortment. One is marked diesel, one copper and one nickel. The guy seemed to think they would make great fishing weights. Thought I'd at least save them from that fate. Can anyone educate me on them? Norm

 

I think gwhite might be correct on this. If you notice it has a S-41-B choke and a BB throttle body uses a S-41-C choke.

 

Winfield used the same float chamber for each alphabetical size, a B chamber would work for a B or BB Throttle, C chamber with C or CC throttle and so on. This, of course, with the appropriate jets and air bleeds. This was a selling feature for stocking dealers of Winfield carburetors, smaller inventory was needed. Most of the carburetors sold and/or swapped around today do not have the proper air bleeds. They might have the right number on them but most have been drilled out. The number stamped is the drill size used. This is true also of the jets and wells.
Winfield advised trying a float chamber from the next smaller series to correct stumbling problems. There is a list around that shows a Winfield air bleed change but it doesn't have the BB listed but it isn't hard to figure out.

 

Correction! I might have mislead some of you with my comment on the jets and wells. They are supposed to be stamped with the throttle bore size. It is very common to find a BB throttle chamber/B float chamber with B size jets and so on with all sizes. I have a CC throttle body with C size jets in a C float chamber.

 

I went to Ford Barn and ask them this

I need some in site on this. My banger sound really good sitting as I speeding up the engine, but if I take it out for a ride it sound good and run strong. But as I running along and I speed it up and put a load on the engine it gets a knocking sound. If I let off it goes away, of just run it easy, no knock, it's just under a load I hear it. HELPPP

I did not tell them I had install high compress head and hi cam. They said it sound like main bearing or timing, and one said it sound like it problem from high compress head.
and timing. What do you guys think?

Mike

 

With out riding in the car, no one will be able to tell you what it is.
You will have to find the cause through elimination. The first thing I would do is eliminate the easy causes first. If it is ignition related, then play with the timing to see if it is pre ignition or ignition knock.

It could be that the pistons are hitting the head. What is the clearance between the top of the piston and the head?

It could be that one or both of the above caused the bearing clearance to grow. To eliminate that as the cause, you have to pull the pan and check the bearings.

It could be that your cam is walking front to back. Is the plunger in the timing cover stuck or it's spring collapsed?


Looks like you got some work ahead of you. Any or all of these could be the cause.

.

 

Crazydaddyo,
I just got some gas 91, and I did install a msd box at the time did all the other things to it. I'm going to take out for drive and check see if that 91, helps
Mike

 

Bet it's the mains--

Herb

 

Did you change cam gears when you installed the new cam? If so, you might have the wrong size gear.

 

Are we talking about babbit or inserts? If babbit old or new? When was the last time rods and mains were adjusted? How much advance are you running? How high is the
compression? Curious minds need to know!

 

Higher compression requires less spark advance. Some have had luck just advance the spark lever about half. What type of ignition are you using?

 

My #3 spark plug has come loose & popped off for a second time within a year & a half of daily driving??? It's a Model A with a B head. Am I the only one this has happened to? It's no big deal, it makes a big pop & I pull over & screw it back in, & try to not burn myself.

 

I had an old motorcycle ''plug popped'' Was a single...... no only did the bike stopped quickly but the plug hit me pretty hard in the knee!! I limped around for about a month........ provda!

 

JustplainBill,
Old babbits adjusted about 300 miles ago, advance I'm not sure.
Mike

STURGIS39,
I'm running a single point dist. timing is set a 10 before.
Mike

 

I am experiencing the exact same symptom.
6.1 head
28 deg , mechanical advance
Old babbit bearings adjusted 500 miles ago, some pressure feed to front and centre mains.
Twin side draft SUs.
Good power.
I have another mechanical dizzy which could probably bet set back to about 15 deg?

Thanks
Brendan

 

Anybody else have a problem with the impeller falling off a brand new water pump shaft. The impeller and shaft are brand new and came per pressed on. Got it installed drove around the block and noticed it was rattling bad. Pulled off my belt grab the pulley to check run out and shoved the shaft right onto the radiator.


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