Broken installer tool in Crank 350 Chevy

I hope your right about not being stuck, I assumoed it was stuck since I seated it being as I run it in until it stopped. I didn't put a lot of force on it but it is inside about a half inch or so. It seems like if I try to drill that far in I stand a chance of messing up the treads. I'm going to pull the balancer off then I'll try to get it to back out being very carefull I sure do not want to pull the motor. NAPA said they would give me a new tool as I would need a way to get it pressed on.

Thanks

 

If you bottomed the end of the adaptor out in the crank snout and twisted it off, they it's probably stuck (pressure still on the threads). If the adaptor shoulder bottomed out, the tension released when the adaptor broke and it should be handy.

Have you tried to unscrew the adaptor out of the crank by hand? Both of the adaptors that I've broken off in cranks screwed right out. Didn't have to drill either one of them.

 

The adapter is inside pretty far at least a half inch. I'm going down to the garage in a few minutes to take the balancer back off. I thought about an engraver I have if I could take my time and put a little indent in the end of the adapter, with a small screw driver I might get lucky and get it to turn, at least I hope so.

Thanks

 

Try using the eraser end of a pencil to turn it out before you do anything else (even pulling the balancer). If it doesn't work, go from there.

 

From the pics that needs left handed drill bits. Use a piece of pipe or sleeve as a guide for the bit as suggested earlier.

 

I'm going to try all of the above tips first and I appreciate them.

I just talked to a machinist, per NAPA’s recommendation. His first thought was to drill and use an easy out since it was too far inside to use the weld a nut procedure. I asked him about leaving the broken bolt inside and getting a shorter bolt after the balancer is in the right location?
Charley’s said he didn’t see why not since I had at least a half inch of good tread, and using a shorter grade 8 bolt with lock tight.

Thanks to all
custom50

 

I wouldn't try it .
I have seen the pics, and fully understand what you are thinking- no don't try it. Things are bound to get worse and if you screw up what left of those threads you'll never get the busted part out.

 

I pulled the balancer off this evening, didn't have to hold the flex plate but the adapter was really tight like 31Vicky with a hemi said it would be.

I took the advice and went slowly, used three left handed bits with the smallest then worked up two more sizes going back and forth. I was able to drive a flat blade screw driver in the hole really snug, tried hitting and turning but so far it hasn't budged. I thought I better let it sit over night so I wouldn't break anything else.

I think it would have been a bad idea to leave the broken adapter in the crake and use a shorter bolt. I come in the house an the computer was messed up again it's always something. If I get it out NAPA said they would give me a new tool, I hope the same thing doesn't happen again.

Thanks for all of the help, the H.A.M.B is the greatest car site.

 

As a general rule a bolt reaches its full holding power when the length of engagement is equal to or greater than the diameter. A 7/16" ? bolt with 1/2" of thread depth would be acceptable.

 

You could try a hand held hammer powered impact screwdriver. Just don't beat the hell out of it,

That might be a few shades better than what the pics are showing.

Google should have plenty of info and napa should be able to hook you up with the tool.

 

I was afraid it would be too hard to drill.
I have used star torx bits to remove very stuck fasteners. I drill a hole smaller than the dia of the bit and then grind the end of the bit so it has sharp edges. I hammer it into the hole. It does not spread the bolt like an easy out. It cuts 6 splines. This method has never failed me.

 

Drill right through the broken bolt until you are just barely into the crank with the largest bit you feel comfortable with this should relieve the pressure where the bolt is bottoming out at the bottom of the bolt hole the remaining bolt should be able to be turned out easily after the pressure is released

 

I've used a small metal engraver to carve a small trench in the middle and backed it out with a screwdriver.

It took awhile for the engraver to make a notch big enough, but it worked.

 

Keep in mind, the first small blocks [265, 283, 327] didn`t even use a bolt to hold the balancer on...the crank snout wasn`t threaded.

just remove the balancer...use emery cloth on the crank snout, and inside the balancer...sometimes a little paint build up can keep the balancer from going on.

The shorter bolt with a lock washer or Loctite will be better than all the new ones in the early `60s.

Tom T

 

THAT is genius. Thanks, Andy.

 

<TABLE border=0 cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=6 width="100%"><TBODY><TR><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: 1px inset; BORDER-LEFT: 1px inset; BORDER-TOP: 1px inset; BORDER-RIGHT: 1px inset" class=alt2>Originally Posted by Andy
I was afraid it would be too hard to drill.
I have used star torx bits to remove very stuck fasteners. I drill a hole smaller than the dia of the bit and then grind the end of the bit so it has sharp edges. I hammer it into the hole. It does not spread the bolt like an easy out. It cuts 6 splines. This method has never failed me.
</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
THAT is genius. Thanks, Andy.


Beating a high quality socket over a wheel lock nut works in the same manner.




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I broken the crank bolt on a HONDA engine once, drilled the center then used the easy out bit (basically a reversed direction almost looks like a tap deal) worked like a charm, key is using a quality drill bit, did this on 292 straight six started bolt too. Good luck.

 

A torx might be worth a try....Step up on the hole though=smaller. Try half the size of the bolt first. Picks and pocket screwdrivers are only going to work once it's "unlocked". If you get a good bite with a torx- IMPACT HAMMER. Your going to have to unjar the threads,and if it snapped,it was because it's really locked up. Spray the hell out of it and let it soak. Use a guide as mentioned(centering hole with drill),and once you get a torx in there,give it a few good wacks......I'll bet it jars it loose,and you'll say wheeeewwww!
We're all watching!

 

been using the torx for a while now. always works and works way better than those stupid easy outs. use the biggest one possible. get it pounded in and maybe even a few light taps with the impact wrench. real light taps just to shock it loose. good luck

 

find a piece of pipe that will go into the hole and stick out a couple inches. put your stinger into the center of the pipe and weld it to the broken stud. use vice grips or pipe wrench on pipe to turn out broken stud. used this a lot when rebuilding cats .if your welding is good you can save the threads

 

Yesterday was a long day getting my wife’s 87 year old uncle to his heart dr. appointment.
We drove 150 miles round trip, we picked up an outside light on the way and put it up by his front door. The wires have been hanging for 9 months, he was going to get it when he had a chance, sounds like projects in my garage.

That trip was harder than trying to get the broken adapter out of the crank. We had to take a nap when we got home after 8 hours with a cantankerous but family old cuss. Most people would like to be so lucky as to be around for 87 years, at least in his shape.

The garage is getting organized while I work on the crank, my wife is there in case I need help, and she stays busy while I make a little progress.
I put WD 40 to soak while we were gone now this morning I’ll try again to work it out. I started with a left handed 5/64 then 7/64 then 5/32 the 1/4 I thought was too big, I didn’t want to take a chance on messing up the threads.

I magnetized a flat bladed screw driver but it was too big to drive it in the hole I drilled, (that was not easy with the bad arms), so I used a skinny flat blade. I know I will break the skinny screw driver if I put too much torque on it. I might try to get the hole all the way through by taking my time and using the WD 40 to keep the bit cool. I have got this far and sure don’t want to mess up now. The machinist did say also like mentioned above that the early small block Chevy’s did not have threads inside the crank.

I do have a impack driver somewhere in the garage, maybe my wife can find it, she found a good center punch. I have a hard time finding things, I lay tools down and forget where I last had them.

I may be wrong but it seems like people used a two by four to drive it on, if I’m wrong how was the balancer pressed on.

I’ll get it out today thinking positive

Thanks for all of the encouragement it really helps.

 

Keep drilling the center hole larger, and clear through the adapter until you get close to the diameter of the adapter. Don't go into the threads or you'll grab the crank and not the adapter. Be sure to do this with lefthand drill bits, as they wont further tighten the adapter while drilling. Stop using all sorts of screwdrivers and odd makeshift tools, and get a correct easyout. You'll probably end up buggering the hole, or breaking something else off in it if you keep using the wrong tools.

 

You know, you could always slip a piece of fuel line over a bolt that will reach in there (so it doesn't touch the sides of the hole) and weld the bolt to the stuck part, then back it out with a ratchet... just thinking outside the box, here.

Or maybe tap the hole you drilled with a left-hand-thread tap and use a left-hand-thread bolt of corresponding size to back it out with a ratchet.

~Jason

 

i was looking at your pictures. if you took a 3/8 drive socket that fit tight in the damper.you could drill in the center that way.

 

I took your advice and I haven't broken anything or got into the crank treads the best I can tell. I had these tools since the broken bolt in the 41 Plymouth head.

Do you or anyone know about how far the threads stop at the crank? From the front of the crank it looks like I have drilled 1 1/8 inch. Judging by the next size of adapter that total length looks pretty close.

I had to stop before I got carless and tore up something. I'm real close to the threads with the 1/4 inch bit.

If anyone has anything that would help let me know. The next thing is I'm not sure the oil leak is fixed, we put a new one piece gasket on plus a new timing cover with the new seal.










Thanks for the help to all
custom50

 

I say drill it in more, don't worry about the crank, you won't hurt it if you drill into it a fraction, going in all the way WILL release the tension on it, go in with the smallest bit and work up from there, the more of the adaptor you dril away the easier it will come out.

Remember to keep the bit lubed up.

If you changed the pan gasket,cover gasket and front seal, you should have the leak taken care of.

I have put on balancers with a big hammer and a piece of wood, not the best way, but it worked

 

Well I hate to give up but I don't want to damage the threads inside the crank. I worked up to the 5/16 left hand bit without breaking the adapter loose, and the bit went through to the crank without any damage. I was getting real close to the threads at the top it was a little off center, so I would not be able to use the next size bigger bit.

I talked to a mechanic friend of mine and he will finish the balancer, and I will put the rest together. I never want to say uncle but what it will cost to pay to have it done right will be worth it to me, I've spent way too much time an effort on it now. The threads more than likely will have to at least have a tap run through them. I will see if Napa will refund the cost of the tool instead of replacing it.

Thanks again for all of the help
Cstom50

 

Back on the road yet ?

 

How about taking a torch and heat the broken bolt and cool it down with water do this say 5 times it should shrink the bolt and then come out.

 

That would probably ruin the crankshaft.