Projects 51 Studebaker truck build

So I had the pleasure of doing a fair amount of work on my muscle car that continues to win first in its class, then I got a little froggy and built an off road Suzuki Samurai for camping. Now I've started a 51 studebaker pickup truck that used to be my wife's cousins'. I'm still a bit of a hack, but I hope to do as much work as possible in my own garage. Partially for the challenge, partially due to budget, and mostly because I have a 4yr old and 1yr old and want them to catch the bug!

So here goes, constructive criticism is always welcome!

As delivered

 

Looking good so far!

 

So the plan is a simple lowered white pickup fifties style with red rims, wide whites, and a little red and black pinstriping. Oh, did I mention I'm stuffing a big block chrysler motor in it?!...maybe or Cadi 390

 

Constructive criticism? Don't use that grille.

 

Got to work on it finally... Got the front axle flipped. Got the rear leafs pulled and new center pins in em...this thing had to have been a ranch truck every bolt thus far has been rusted. And caked on dirt throughout the under carriage.
My neighbor helped me pull the bed off it and got the rear axle pulled for clean up. I was told this is a rearend from an Oldsmobile, from back in the day.

Me and the wire wheel are going to become great friends over this weekend then me and the sanding disks will become close this coming week....

 

With that one piece windshield and big back window, that is not a 51. It's at least a 55. And, yeah, the grill makes it look like a Nash

 

Ya they started the one piece windshield in 54 but all my DMV paperwork is calling it a 51... I think someone musta changed out he cab at some point or something got screwed up in the paperwork at some point. Who knows.
I do know, the owner of a body shop had it prior to my wife's cousin and his buddy owning it in high school back in the early 70's... Body guy might have switched cabs or something.

 

I like it! I've seen the Nash grille done before, but that grille would look better with horizontal bars or a single floater, IMHO...but then again, I'm Stude truck biased!!

 

I like the grille! But then you might have seen what I did to my stude

 

Nice start, looking good.

 

Dammit, I just love these trucks!

 

Interesting little wrinkle, I finally posted my cab tag info on "Studeaker Truck Talk" for the Stude guru's over there. Turns out my cab (at least) is a 1955...


Not that it's a bad thing or anything but my paperwork on this truck says '51. This thing has been hotrodded a lot over the years so I wouldn't doubt the frame and sheet metal weren't together off the assembly line. Lol!

 

This is the info I received. So, Carl, you were dead on with the 55 year. Your post spurred me to investigate further. Thank you Carl!

"This is an automatic email response to a message you posted at Network54.

In response to your message titled "Cab tag decoding help needed please"
At: http://network54.com/Forum/message?messageid=1369634104&forumid=23885

Frank Drumheller has replied (with title "Jason, I'm responding to you...."):

by posting rather than by e-mail. I do this to help other Studebaker trucks nuts decypher these codes as at age 76, others need to learn this stuff.

According to the information you have provided you have:

Model code- E7-12-C2
E....code for the series of Studebaker trucks built for model years 1955 through 1964,
7....code for a standard V8 overhead valve engine of 224 cubic inches,
12...indicates the wheelbase of the chassis of 112 inches measured from the center of the front axle to the center of the rear axle. This truck would accomodate the standard 6 1/2 foot pickup box (a 'shorty' pickup in street talk),
C....simply means 'cab'
2....code for a standard cab trim.

Serial number- E7-4473
E....same as above,
7....same as above,
4473.indicates the sequencial order in which this E7 truck came off the assembly line. This number falls in the block of numbers assigned to the 1955 model E7 trucks. The first one built for 1955 was serial # E7-101 and the last one was about E7-4475. This truck was the 4373th E7 built in 1955.

Cab number- E-C2, 15166
E....same as above,
C....same as above,
2....same as above,
15166..the sequencial order in which this cab came off the assembly line. Since all sizes of Studebaker trucks used the same C2 Cab, this number really has no particular meaning in ID'ing your truck.

NOTE: The 1955 E series was the first year of this model. It was the first year the V-8 engine was available across-the-board for all sizes of trucks, therefore, your truck is the first 1/2 ton model Studebaker to have a V8.
The 1955 model year was a low production year, therefore these models are relatively scarce compared to later Transtar models or the preceding R series trucks.

Jason, I'm not sure I have the paint and trim codes, P-2624 and T-6046. I'll do a search of my materials to see if I can come up with either one or the other.

Thanks for posting. Keep asking questions and keep us up to date as to what you do with this Studebaker truck. You've come to the right place for information. We're interested in you and your truck.

Frank Drumheller
Locust Grove, VA
60S-W6
M16-52 Boyer-bodied fire truck, 1948"

 

Matt I love the louvers on your hood! I've been toying with the idea of splurging for some myself, I know a guy with a louver press.... And help with our hot CA summer weather and engine cooling? Possibly, or wishful thinking?

 

Nice truck and modified C-cabs are the best.

Yes, the rear axle appears to be a big GM, as they had the same 5-on-5 as Stude pickups.

The radiator isn't a Stude and at first, I thought the grille is from a '48 DeSoto but difficult to tell from a partial.

The '55 body tag doesn't match with the cab. The flat dash is from the '57 and later E-series trucks. A '55 would have had an instrument cluster the same shape as the glove box door and two ribbed panels in the center where an optional radio and speaker could be mounted.

The electric wipers and the shape of the heater box are also indicative of a later truck. A '55 would have had vacuum wipers.

Is the box a 48" wide from a '49-55 or a 52" wide from a '56-59?

On a modified, the differences are of no consequence until you start to register it. Your state regs will be the decider.

jack vines

 

I just measured the box and it is 48" wide inside. The dash is just as you explained, shape of a glovebox door for instrument cluster and two ribbed panels in the center. It has been hacked and cut over the years for various instruments and gauges...so lotsa holes. In fact when I got it it had an old cultured stone remnant covering the entire dash, grandma was missing her bathroom countertop... It was sweet! Cream colored with gold glitter swirled in.

But like you said it really doesn't matter being that its not going back to stock. I just kinda want to know what I should call it? 55? Or 51? Or who knows... Lol!

 

Just looked at the file I have on the truck and the last documented title is from 1977 and it is stating the truck is 1951. So I'll just call it a 51 and explain its a 55 cab to those who tell me its not a '51. Hahaha! Now let's get back to work on it already! Lol!

 

Regardless of the exact year, it is a sweet truck and a great project. Keep posting project pics!

As for registration, since you have paperwork saying it is a 51, start there and then see if you can find the VIN numbers on the frame. If Stude put the numbers on the frame (anyone verify this??), that is your proof. Worse case is you can go to DMV and get the numbers changed, just say you changed cabs and now the new number on the cab is xxxxxxx.

 

I've always liked those pickups, keep the grill looks better than the stocker.

 

I think I will, it's growing on me. I think I'll primer the grill surround so it matches the rest of the primer and put it all back on and look at it. Will give me a better vision of it all finished.

 

Do youself a favor and get all the registration crap straightened out before you put in a lot of time and money. The California DMV is right behind the IRS at being total pricks that you don't want to be on the wrong side of (Ask me how I know) That is a very cool project. Good luck.

 

Nice build!! One of my favorite trucks


Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!

 

Copy that...after pulling out the paperwork on it yesterday I swung by the DMV but the line was too long. I'll pop in there on Monday. I started thinking the same thing....

 

$47 craigslist score. Spent an hour last night with wheel cleaner and a scrub brush and they are near perfect! Waahhhoooo!

Not much work done lately because I've had to work so much but I'll be off Saturday morning and hopefully get a days worth of work done...

 

So my neighbor installs commercial fire sprinkler systems, he brought me some scrap pipes for use on my "C" notches... The 4" is sch 10. (Kinda thin wall) and some 6" sch 40 (kinda thick wall) would either of thes be appropriate for my notches? I also got some remnants from the steel store of 3/16" plate for boxing the frame. Any and all thoughts ae welcome.

P.S. the axle is 3"

 

Also, do ya"ll think the 3/16" plate for boxing is too thick?

 

...looks like you got a great solid truck to start with; now I'm really wanting to get this one I looked at last week, even tho it's a longbed...I'd have to find a shortbox or cut this one down...

 

The wife and kids gave me the day to work in the garage... So I got to work..




One down, one more to go, then I'll box the frame in.

 

And the second one cut and burned in on both sides.

 

I got some great information from a fellow HAMBer here named LAKEROADSTER and here is what he had to say on another thread here on the board...

"I spent some time analyzing c-notches a few years back. How much strength you really need depends on how the rear suspension is mounted (coil springs, leaf springs, coil overs, etc.) and if your going to install a hitch on the vehicle for hauling, etc.

In any event here is a link. I hope it helps.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s....php?p=4597148"

So here is what I came up with.

I'm going to do this inside and outside of both frame rails and then box in the frame. Hopefully this will make the frame as strong if not stronger then it started 62 years ago?

Boxing plate mocked up with cardboard.

Sorry for the crappy cell phone pics...