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powerglide clunck

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by miltos68, May 21, 2013.

  1. miltos68
    Joined: Jan 29, 2013
    Posts: 94

    miltos68
    Member
    from sacramento

    Everytime I change gear possitions ie. drive,low or rev I have a loud clunk that can be heard and felt. I lowered the idle further with no change. Any ideas? trans bearing? Torque tube issue?:confused:
     
  2. Baumi
    Joined: Jan 28, 2003
    Posts: 3,046

    Baumi
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Probably a U-joint ( maybe the one in the torque ball) or the shaft the spider gears run on in the differential has some slack in it.I doubt the tranny itself would make such a noise.
     
  3. miltos68
    Joined: Jan 29, 2013
    Posts: 94

    miltos68
    Member
    from sacramento

    going to replace someday but perhaps that is sooner than later. dissasembly would be required to verify?
     
  4. 1959apache
    Joined: Nov 22, 2009
    Posts: 2,635

    1959apache
    Member

    I had the same issue.... except you could really feel it slam into gear from park/neutral... My motor mount was bad and the engine was lifting up about a half an inch and slamming down when I put it into gear. I would check this first, my motor mount for the 250 was $7 out the door. Just FYI the same motor mount is used on both sides so if you have a stupid kid at the parts counter that says "we only have one side, but not the other" don't believe him. I couldn't tell what it was until my dad was looking in the engine compartment and just happened to see it. It was intermittent, every time the wife put it into gear for me It wouldn't do it.

    Is this slamming into gear when you are driving while shifting or just in the driveway from park/neutral to reverse or L2 or L1?

    If it is rough shifting while driving the transmission modulator ($20 at the auto parts store) (the vacuum canister) has a lot to do with this. In addition if you have a crack in the line for this OR hose then this can be misdiagnosed at as a bad modulator

    I just finished troubleshooting mine and replaced the hose all the way down to the modulator and will replace the modulator (I have it just haven't installed it). When I crawl back under it to do some speedo gear work I will take care of this

    I highly doubt that this transmission is bad unless it 1) hasn't been taken care of (no fluid) or 2) has extremely high mileage or 3) has been thrashed severely in its life (i.e. drag strip, dicking around in the car, etc.) These are some of the best transmissions because of their simplicity and durability. I wouldn't take the tranny apart yet. If you really want to drop the pan then you can see if there are metal chunks in it/heavy metal shavings. That would give you your indication that there is something wrong with the transmission
     
    Last edited: May 21, 2013

  5. Bigjake
    Joined: Jan 21, 2009
    Posts: 286

    Bigjake
    Member

    I had a similiar issue on a 700R4 and it was caused by a bad transmission mount.
     
  6. miltos68
    Joined: Jan 29, 2013
    Posts: 94

    miltos68
    Member
    from sacramento

    thanks, I was thinking a mount of some sort. It shifts ok when driving though shifts too early IMOP. It happens when you are at a stand still to any gear even reverse.
     
  7. d2_willys
    Joined: Sep 8, 2007
    Posts: 4,290

    d2_willys
    Member
    from Kansas

    Adjust the TV rod for shift point.
     
  8. miltos68
    Joined: Jan 29, 2013
    Posts: 94

    miltos68
    Member
    from sacramento

    Is this what you mean?
    The TV linkage is adjustable on the V8 cars.
    The TV linkage is fixed on the 235 cars.

    There in causes some confusion... but let me try to help.

    First, the TV arm on the tranmission of a 235 car is adjustable but you need a special gauge to do it properly. Kent Moore pn J-5906

    My advice - leave it alone.

    Engine off - choke wide open

    Disconnect the adjustable clevis on the carburetor arm. This clevis is attached to the linkage going straight up and down and attaches to the bellcrank on the opposite end (located on the engine block)

    Hold the carb linkage at WOT and adjust the clevis to fit into the carb linkage. Make sure you are pulling UP on the vertical rod and also VERIFY you are pulling it up against the TV detent in the transmission. It is approx. 1/4" of spring detent which is easily felt.

    TIP - put a 3/4" block of wood under the gas pedal prior to adjusting.

    Double check WOT position.

    If not capable of WOT - then the rod from the gas pedal to the bellcrank needs to be adjusted. This clevis is found on the bellcrank on the engine. Repeat until carb linkage is capable of WOT.

    That's it.....
     
  9. d2_willys
    Joined: Sep 8, 2007
    Posts: 4,290

    d2_willys
    Member
    from Kansas

    If that doesn't help then remove governor and put stronger spring in it.
     
  10. 1959apache
    Joined: Nov 22, 2009
    Posts: 2,635

    1959apache
    Member

    Then its probably a motor mount or tranny mount. I had the exact same problem.
     
  11. miltos68
    Joined: Jan 29, 2013
    Posts: 94

    miltos68
    Member
    from sacramento

    Thanks for all the input. And just want to say that adjusting the throttle linkage solved the issue. It was a bear with the weber and linkage adapter to get the ratio right. Thanks again for the advice.
     

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