leaking residual pressure valves

1949 Chevy 3600

Update to disc front, updated drum rear, dual master cylinder and prop valve with speedway residual pressure valves.

Both sides of the 10lb valve leak, and 1 side of the 2lb valve leaks. I snugged them up, as well as verifies I had the right fittings.

Teflon tape? Any other suggestions?

 

Fastenal sells a hydrolic thread locker fluid that is just lock locktite. Works great. you apply it to fitting and let it set overnite. I always use it if the customer wants dot5 fluid.

 

Teflon tape worked for me.

 

Double check the flares.... be sure everything is smooth, and no nicks or scratches,....brake fluid will seep out of very small flaws.

4TTRUK

 

Is it leaking out of a pipe thread adaptor or a inverted flair fitting?

If its a pipe thread for an adaptor, teflon will work. If its the flair fitting, often times you can undo them, spin the fitting to a different spot and tighten. Make sure you dont over tighten them.

 

Make sure you have not screwed flared nut into 1/8" pipe threads. It is easy to make this mistake.

 

I agree with the above. Need to have a pipe thread adapter to thread your brake lines into.

 

I'd never use teflon tape on anything automotive. Automotive plumbing is designed to not need "help" sealing, if it doesn't seal, something is wrong.

I'd take a look at the flares. Perhaps they are wrong style/angle, or have cracks or other defects.

 

Most aftermarket proportioning valves use an 1/8" to inverted flair brake adaptor, so its really not an "automotive fitting" and they do like teflon used on the pipe fitting side.

 

http://ecihotrodbrakes.com/discbrake_kit_components.htmlI installed aluminum residual valves on my truck, and had leaks that I could not stop. Someone on here referred me to ECI. Their valves are made out of brass, if I remember correctly. Anyway, no leaks.

 

All fuel and brake tapered pipe fittings need a thread sealant, but always avoid Teflon tape and instead use the paste form.

 

Thanks for the input guys. It appears it is leaking between the residual valve and the adapter, not between the adapter and flare.

The residual valve is 1/8 NPT.

 

I ended having to use the eci units.Every other one I tried leaked at the pipe thread adapter.All of the other ones were labeled made in china.Any thing that is made in china that has a pipe thread will most likely leak.Not sure if its the tolerance they work to or if the thread is a little different pitch.I have noticed this on both automotive and plumbing type fittings.

 

This is the correct info. Ditch the shitty aluminum ones and get the BRASS ECI residuals.

 

I have litterly put in 100s of Speedways cheap ass aluminum ones and never had a single leak. Sometimes it is the hunter and not the gun

And used cheap HF teflon tape on them all. The key is to not put the tape where it will break off into the fluid.

 

I think the issue with the Al ones is that the threads are more easily distorted than with the brass. We had a pile of Wilwood ones we pulled off customer cars at the shop, all bunged up by someone previously.