Projects The '23 Fake T Project...

Just passing a idea or two along,;I'd put a U-joint at the point the steering shaft gets closist to engine[about the oil filter]=can then move cockpit end of shaft over and gain another 3 or 4in. of foot room between shaft and body.
Other way is use two U joints,one about at front of engine to drop shaft about lower ,run along tell it gets to a point were you can come up into cockpit with space for foot but.
Just some thoughts. I have always used steering boxs my self that are placed just behind flywheel line and inboard enought so there is good foot room.
When doing that though you do need to look out for not adding too much bump steer. A small amount of bump it OK,you never feel it,but it is a place were some cars are messed up by over bump or stuff like cowel steering {witch I never liked the looks of anyway.

 

Something to think about is fitting your leg/hand between steering wheel and door. I know on mine it took the right size wheel, column in right position and a double joint out neer the engine. Then throw your brake pedal in the mix, the width of your feet etc...etc...lol

 

Do yourself a favor on the steering and stick with a reversed corvair or a vega box. The vega is cross steer and the reversed corvair is straight line. I have used both but prefer the corvair.

 

Thanks for the input fellas.
...but I think you missed the mark about what I was asking about.
I'm not changing where my steering box is mounted or what box I'm using.
The whole point of this is to use old Ford parts and build a car that looks like it could've been built around 1960 with as few modern concessions to that as possible.
So as few U-joints as possible and I really don't like seeing them ahead of the firewall anyway.
I don't need to do myself any "favors" by using a newer style steering box.

Really I was asking about the lower column support/bearing and mounting it to the firewall.
I think I've got a solid plan for it. A bearing in the mast jacket supporting the steering shaft and a mount/tab welded to the jacket and bolted to the firewall should keep that all in place.
Any input about that?

I'll be running an under floor master set up...

With putting the u-joint inside the cowl and angling the shaft up from there, I'll actually end up with my steering wheel in a position close to where yours is Phil.

There's plenty of room for my brake pedal to the right of the column and I could put a third pedal to the left in the future if we go that route.
It's tight but I knew that getting into this, haha.

I'll be running this 15" steering wheel..

 

Norton, I used a 35 ford column with 55 chevy shaft inside, both shafts were 3/4 inch. Mac's sells a rubber bushing with a bronze insert that slips inside the 35 column and the shaft passes through the bronze insert.

http://macsautoparts.com/early-ford...ruck-b-3517-am/camid/FP1/cp/JS0R3CHL1141261E/

It supports the shaft really well and the column was attached with 30's chrysler column drop and 69 chevy p/u column support at the bottom.

 

Thanks Phil, that's awesome and pretty much exactly what I need for that lower part of the column.

 

I think I'd be a bit concerned about firewall flex. I don't imagine your firewall will be the strongest (being mostly fiberglass and plywood), and with a ujoint in there as well, I think there will be some fore/aft pressure involved. I think the plan is fine, but I'd be looking for a little more sturdy way to mount that lower tab. Is it possible to have an 'arm' coming from the frame rail to firmly locate the bottom end of the steering column?

 

On mine I ran a 1x1 square tube from windshield post mount to windshield post mount behind the dash. The bolts going through the mounts sandwich the body between that and the square tube. That's what I bolted the column drop to, everything tied together.
On the firewall end I used a square of 3/4 marine grade plywood that first was liquid nailed into place. I then followed up with matt and resin to glass it to the firewall, then attached that 69 truck column lower bracket to that. That bracket kinda looks like a band clamp with flat ears to bolt to firewall. It's been that way for 7 years so far.

 

I have a very similar plan for mounting the upper half of my column with a drop connected to a hoop up inside the cowl and having the windshield posts bolt to it.

I have 3/8" plywood on the inside of my firewall and a 1/8" aluminum sheet on the outside of it. I think it'll be plenty strong with a little brace coming up from the floor if need be.

 

I have one of these "oldy but goody" type fiberglassT buckets from the early days. It has a metal flake blue under a clear jel coat that was made that way when it was new. I have had it for 40 years in storage and never got around to building it.
I am giving it to my daughter and son in law. They live in Las Vegas and enjoy building cars together.
It has a z'd rec tube frame with a tall Model A rear spring mounted on a GM rear. The straight front axle is mounted suicide on a small flat spring. The body has an inner schell that forms a floor and a place to sit. I am going to give it to them with either a flathead Ford or a nailhead Buick engine. The problem is shipping it from Philadelphia to Las Vegas! I am not selling it, so it really doesn't matter but I saw your post and was just curious what it is worth, because you said that you paid too much for your T bucket.
I will probably be helping them with the build so I am interested in your build as it goes along. I am subscribed!

 

That sounds like a cool project.

I've seen these older fiberglass bodies go for anywhere from a couple hundred dollars to about $500 for a nice thick one with a turtledeck or pickup bed on it.

 

Morning inspiration...

 

I made it out to a couple swaps over the past few weeks.

Windshield posts have been found as well as a crusty tailgate at a good price that's worth saving.

It's time to get going on building now that I've found more parts.









And we're getting the steering angles set up for the upper steering shaft too.

Things are going pretty well.

 

You need to get those windshield stanchions chopped down! But it's cool to see one more piece of the puzzle come together.

 

...nice scrounging Dude...hope you didn't break the bank....

 

Those windshield posts look like the ones I used, except mine bolted to the sanctions. I used the top section of post but the bottom windshield frame, I have no idea what it was off of.

 

These posts are going to need some work to fit right on this body.

I may have found a good line on some steel body panels though... We'll see what happens.






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Got some more work done today.

Started to get my seat sorted out.













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Are you doing the plywood with foam on it seat? Mine had that and it got pretty uncomfortable on a long trip so I cut 5 1/2" out of a Dodge Caravan seat and it kicks ass! Looking good so far, keep it up!

 

See post #13 here,
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=341051

It was just too darn hot out there to get anymore done.

 

I saw that! Somewhere that guy has a detailed write up step by step on how he did it, looks pretty cool.

 

I sat on that piece of plywood for about 10 minutes yesterday and it sucked.
Hitting a bump with a few inches of foam over that just won't be good enough at all!
The webbing will save my tailbone, hahaha

 

Live action report! Haha.



Got the seat frame welded up. Mounts will get done tomorrow or Sunday.


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Everybody loves a set of headlights...





I was worried they would be too big.
They're looking just right to me.

 

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The lights give a nice balance, looking good.JW

 

Looking good bud! I thought they might be a little 'heavy' for the front end as well, but now that they're on there, they look sharp.

 

Thanks fellas!

I wanted to roll it out to get a better look but it was too dang hot yesterday.

....and I might have been a little hungover..

I need to get my tanks filled so I can finish bending my shock mounts and then I'll build my headlight mounts out of that Model A headlight bar I have.

 

Nancy boy...

It is already rolling. All you had to do was push.

 

Geez..
I would've had to move a few other cars first and it was 40C out!
Next time for sure.
I actually didn't work on it at all this weekend really.
Just those few shots.