I have a 54 Plymouth flat 6 that has been going through points. Its been converted to 12v some time ago, but has recently been burning up the points. 3rd set in 6mos. I replaced the condencer once and nothing. Gapped to specified 20thou and better, but still seems weird that it goes through them so fast. I took it to an Electrician who ended up rewiring the ignition and replaced the points the 2nd time. Would changing to the hei from stovebolt fix this probem? Whats the cause?
when it was changed over to 12 volts did the coil get changed also? you know, some 12 volt coils need a resistor before it. you can get a 12 volt coil that does not need a resistor also.
I once read that 90 percent of all condensers are defective from the factory. That was a long time ago. Try another condenser..or two.
Another vote for 12 volt coil and ballast resistor. While you are at it get a condenser for a 12V car. If you are on 12V you could convert to electronic ignition without changing your distributor. I used a Ford thick film ignition module off a Ford Probe and wired it to the points. Yes it will work with points, but the points only act as a switch and carry practically no current. This means they will last forever and never burn. You don't even need a condenser. Probe, Windstar, and some Thunderbird and Cougar models have the ignition module on a finned aluminum heat sink beside the radiator. This is better than the usual setup where it goes on the distributor. While you are at it get the Ford coil. This setup will throw a spark about 10 times what the old ignition would. Open up your spark plug gap to .035. Don't go too wide or you might get cross fire in the distributor cap. Do a search for Ford thick film ignition conversion for a wiring diagram and instructions. Cabbage the module, wiring and coil next time you are in the junk yard. Mine cost $20 vs $400 for a Porsche module. If you do this you can forget about replacing points. They will last forever. Just check timing and dwell once a year in case the rubbing block wears down and give it a dab of grease about as big as a match head. PS you can do the same trick with the old Chrysler module that they used from 1972 to 85. I like the Ford because it is smaller and throws a better spark but either will work. PPS you may also need to adjust the timing slightly as the stock ignition fires when the points open, the electronic when they close.
You need about 3 ohms resistance to limit primary current to 4 amps key on points closed. Usually this is 1.5 Ohm ballast, 1.5 ohm coil. The 6 volt coil and resistor circuits had 1/2 the resistance so if you have them with 12 volts you are doubling the current, melting points.
One more time, it's a flatHEAD six not a FLAT six. Flat 6 = Porsche, Corvair, Subaru etc horizontally opposed cylinders Flathead = valves beside the cylinders aka sidevalve aka flathead, the head resembles a flat slab of metal with no valves in it.
The 12v system was installed before I owned it. I have changed the coil, when I did a tune up on it a while back. Its running a resistor block also. All points and condencer are 12v
I abide by Pertronix conversions, stock look and no more points. Used the coversion on my 56 Ford (57 distributor) and my 70 Monte Carlo, don't like the look of the HEI.
Only one thing burns up points. That's too much current. Only way to have too much current is low resistance. Like others have said you need a 1.5 ohm coil and a 1.5 ohm resistor. The last issue is a fine stranded resistance wire running from the distributor to the coil, this is the final voltage drop in the circuit! There is a difference between burning up contacts and having metal transfer from a defective condenser. Napa echlin usually is the best capacitors around.i just tested a box of 24 deco units and the group only had three good ones in it! Welcome to Korea!!!
I am not sure what hei frkme is but I ran his GM mini hei and loved it. Well worth the money !!! engine ran a lot better. and more power.... If I ever get another L6 I will buy Langdons HEI again
Napa echlin usually is the best capacitors around.i just tested a box of 24 deco units and the group only had three good ones in it! Welcome to Korea!!! How do you test them, same as any other capacitor?
An easy check is to turn the key on and ground the - neg terminal of the coil. Should Then read about 6-7 Volts on the positive. Caution, do not leave the coil grounded for long, it will over heat,
I have a sun test condenser tester. Checks capacity, series resistance and leakage. Most are incorrect capacity, either being too low (allowing a arc). Or too high( producing a arc)
Ditto, Ballast resistor. Or, a coil with internal resistor,...... Either will fix the problem. Happy Roddin' 4TTRUK
when it was rewired was the polarity changed from Pos to NEG? Which terminal is the ign wire going to on the coil??
On my Plymouth Flatty, I'm running a 12v tractor coil with built-in resistor. No problems.. I can get you the part# if u need.
Mine was burning them up after my conversion too. But went with a 12v condenser this time and its been fine since
I put a new accel 12v coil in a while back, thought it would help, it didnt. Its got a new ballast resistor too, is there a specific one that would help? I changed the capasitor and points too, they work for about a couple hundred miles then progressively starts missing and the contacts get fried. Lots of good tips on here, thanks
just converted mine to 12volt with the coil seems to purr like a fine tuned sowing machine....hopefully no problems as decribed above
I converted my 48 I/6 over to 12 volts in 2007 and have not touched the inside of the distributor since replacing everything then. I think you have wired your coil to 12 volts full time, mine only sees 12 volts when the starter relay is closed while cranking the engine then reverts back through the ballast resistor to run on 6 or less volts at the coil.
I see Autozone sells ballast resistors. Where does this mount? I assume one end connects to the coil and one to the ignition switch? Thanks Tony
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