I'm trying to get an idea for the drive train in my 54 Chevy. So far I've found a 69' 350 sbc and a 93 700R4 (4L60) tranny. Both need gone through although both are in good shape. So here is where I feel like I can't leave well enough alone. The 350 has a set of descent heads. 1.94/ 1.50" valves and 76cc. The block is clean, looks like a hone and ring job would be fine, maybe balance the bottom end. But this is the first build of mine and I'm a bit inexperienced. Not helpless, just not pros like some of you guys here. So, I need advise on if I should hone and put new rings in it and be done or save up money and put domed pistons in to up the compression so I can run the L79 cam I want... Really, I'de like the car to be a well behaved cruiser with an attitude primarily coming from under the hood. The 54 will be riding on taller white walls and it will have a OD tranny in it. I'de like to be able to run it down the interstates and I'm concerned about the power band, stahl, and rpm's at OD speed being an issue. I'm afraid at a low rpm with a cam that operates best at 1800+ rpm's the OD would be underpowered? Hope that makes some sense. Am I over thinking things here or is to much power going to hinder the cruising performance of the sbc? I do not have a ton of money to blow on this, so I'de like to put it where it will make a difference. Thanks guys
I personally would just ring it and get the car on the road. On a street car like you describe I get the most bang for my buck with aluminum intake, carb, headers and a hydraulic cam to match with anti-pump up lifters. I would match the cam to the engine, not build the engine to the cam. Dome pistons are great for horsepower but it also can cause detonation and you are always looking for hi octane. After you drive it awhile you can decide what to do to the engine next. My 0.02.
I second the re ring it and drive it option. Drive it with the engine you have and build another motor for your cam. The l79 had decent low and mid range torque so I think in a 350 or 383 it would cruise pretty well. You need to figure out what size tires you are running first and then find a rpm calculator online. It's pretty simple, just pick a rear gear tht will keep your engine in the rpm band you want at cruising speed.
I can never understand why guys that do their first build think that they need a fresh rebuilt hi-po motor. Most times all they need are a good used motor. Get one out of a car that was running good yesterday. You will have enough problems with the rest of the build. You don't need to worry about the problems that come with a fresh hot rod motor, ie, getting the right carb jetting, right advance, ect. Lots of pro builders put in a simple motor to check out the car first, then you put in the killer motor. That way you work on one set of problems at a time.
Like threedude said that trans has needs a computer to shift if its a 4- L60. If its a700r no computer needed. 4L60 has big plug for wiring harness on right side behind dipstick tube.
oldolds, I'm with you I never understood why dump a lot of money inside a motor just to cruise. Spend it to run and look good.
Great advice. A used fuel injection engine will run many many miles when converted to carburetor and added to your hot rod. In your case a good cleaning, paint, new freeze plugs, oil pump and rings and get it on the road. If you swap the cam go easy on the specs. Torque is where it's at on the street.
Throw some vortec heads on that motor and get a quality rebuild on the 700r4. The trans does not need a ECM to run. I have a '93 350 and 700 in my Merc and I love it. I dropped a no name aluminum intake manifold, a new distributor and a new holley 650 carb on mine and it's actually reliable now and I can finally run with traffic.
I think you need to check into whether or not a '93 tranny needs the add-on electronic box to shift. One thing for sure is, the throttle pressure cable has more travel than earlier transmissions and if the attachment point is not modified correctly you will literally smoke it. There's a ton of info about that here on the HAMB. But about the motor; several points come to mind. I agree with the "go easy on the cam" thought for two reasons, you won't need a higher stall converter, and it will still be able to take advantage of the overdrive (unless you have 4.10 gears or something). About the heads; I would pop the springs off but leave the valves in and take them to the machine shop and get an estimate. You may need as much work done to justify that set of Vortec heads mentioned earlier. Actually, it would be surprising if you can get those old heads fixed cheaper, and the Vortacs are so superior it's not even a comparo!
Dont over analyze.... If your cruising, and an occasional burn out, or stop light to stop light race. Keep it simple. and go after longevity.... Here is what I would do..... If you can do a compression check before you tear down the engine....This will give you an idea on potential troubled cylinders..... either way.Use a Micrometer..... Make sure the cylinders are true! all the honing isn't gonna correct this. You need proper combustion with out exception..... Hone the cylinders and re-ring. Make sure your wrist pins are in tolerance, inspect rods for cracks.... Inspect crank journals for wear. Send it out for polishing is needed, as about a champfering as well then. Have the co that polishes the crank get the main and rod bearings....Crucial !!! Put in a high volume melling oil pump. and a good double roller timing chain, using a mild RV cam..... using this as a guiline 1500 to 5500 rpms.... Remember, you need a good solid bottom end. PERIOD! all HP will be gained through the induction part of the engine. If your gonna run your 194 heads, make sure the valve seat lbs is 110.... no more, and no less then 85lbs.... Keep it simple. an aluminum dual plane intake, nice carb, headers, and strong ignition.... If you want any more get a 1200 to 1500 stall converter. This will raise the rpms up slightly to get things going with out loosing drivability or MPG
I picked up a '92 TBI crate engine that had 20k miles for $400 (searched CL every day for about 2 weeks). Guy replaced the engine in his suburban and then totalled it. Got a aluminum intake at the swap for $90 (already media blasted), added cheap finned valve covers, so I basically have $600. Power wash, install the intake, replace the valve cover gaskets, paint and voila, good cruiser motor.
WoW, thanks for the input guys. And to help clarify, the tranny is a 4L60 not 4L60E. It's the same as the 700R4 and the last year they made a 700R4. No electronic control unit. I just need to swap out the speedo sensor to a mechanical unit. So building a solid bottom end is my goal, and I'm starting to agree more about keeping it simple. I just dig that rumble. And yes, you are right. I have plenty of other projects that this money could be better utilized. This engine is in good shape. Very clean. It was pulled out of a running driving car. So here is another question. If I just hone it and put in new rings. Should I send out the bottom end to get balanced or is that overkill for a standard performance engine? Would an upgrade in valve springs and rockers be a good idea? Thanks all
Don't bother balancing anything, and if you are keeping the rest of the engine stock, don't bother with valve train parts right now. Hone and re ring, new gaskets and oil pump, and paint it. You can build a motor from the bottom up while you cruise around in your 54 now. Keep it simple
Dam right I'm gonna paint it. The whole thing is Chevy orange right now. haha What sets of rings do you guys suggest?
Got to ask one question - why rering the engine if the compression is still OK. Mustang6147 is on the right track I- check the compression first - then decide if it needs a rering - why fix something thats is not broken. Modern motors last longer in the ring assembly than what we played around with 40 years ago - the advances in the metal makeup is streets ahead of where we used to be and I do not see the need to rering an engine unless it has to be done . What should happen is that you need to establish if it NEEDS to be done first and then take your steps from there. Old flatheads and such did need reringing more often but the metals that they were made of were not as good as what we get today. Establish a compression reading first and see what the results tell you - if you are not sure what the readings say ask back here cause many of us will explain what your findings are. Again its one of those steps that could save you a job, money and time that could go elsewhere in the build. Just my .02c
Well, good question. And I'm sure it differs with anyone that has ever built a car, bike, hotrod, etc. As one mans garbage is another mans treasure, One mans treasure can be another's garbage aswell. Since the car is running and driving....(235 and a leaking iron glide) I'm in the process of gathering parts to build a newer drive train. So no huge rush. So, maybe I need to explain more. This engine was pulled out of a running car. 2 years ago. It appeared clean, good clean oil, no sludge in any of if. Being the annal bastard I am. I pulled the heads, cam, crank, etc...Simply because it's on a stand and can easily be done for peace of mind's sake. Most of the bearings looked pretty good. But the Front cam bearing was chipped, I had a high spot (bugger) on the crank that was wearing out a bearing in a rod, and 2 cylinders were defintatly being starved. Pistons were burnt and chipped in a spot around the edges. All is well, I'm going to take my time and build a solid street engine. The car deserves it. The engine did have a couple of oddities. First, the crankshaft has no provision for a balancer bolt. Did some research to find out that some older 350's (non high performance) simply have the balancer pressed on. No bolt! wow. Also the last time it had been gone through, some one put in a general kinetics cam # C1M-310-B. If my research (google) is serving correctly, than that is a pretty frickin big cam. Which by the way is looking a bit worn.
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