I want to run a power rack and pinion off the rear of the i beam axle. I want to make it handle decent as well as be a comfortable driver, but I really like the Old School I beam axle touch.
Oh and once again, Im lacking an update because I had to replace intake manifold gaskets on my daily driver this last weekend...
I have a general question here. I want to buy a swivel floor mount for my steering column and Ive seen them sold as 2 inch or 2 1/4 inch diameter. My column's OD averages to 2.18". It is a dodge column from the 70's. Im just not sure what the nominal size for my column is.
I picked up a power rack and pinion out of 92 Jaguar at the junkyard yesterday. It's a good rear steer design. I cant wait until I get that thing mounted up to the axle. I just have to make the brackets now.
I just received my new plasma cutter and bead roller in the mail today. The plasma is an Everlast Supercut 50p and seems to be pretty good quality. It should make my job of making brackets much easier. Has anyone on here hooked one of these up before? There is a ground post on the back of the machine that im not sure about, and Im not sure about the details on connecting the regulator. And the bead roller is from Woodward Fab. I think its a little better quality than the Harbor Freight one (because it comes with grease-able zerks on the shaft journals) and it was cheaper.
So I am in the process of mounting the rack and pinion on the axle, but Ive come across a few problems that sort of depend on eachother. 1) The pinion input is too close to the starter at full suspension compression 2) But i cant move the rack lower because it would hit the leaf springs. 3) The difference in angle between the rack and the steering column is drastic, and im not sure if i have enough room to make up for it with u joints So Im kinda stuck, if anyone is still following this, your input is much appreciated
I'm still following, but I don't have a clue for you. There are several threads on here dealing with rack and pinion and straight axles. I recommend a search and see what the "experts" say. Many on here say that you cannot use a rack with a straight axle because of bump steer. They recommend staying with a steering box. I really would like to upgrade to something else for mine. I have rebuilt the entire front end including the steering box and I still have some play in the steering wheel.
The rack on the axle was tried in the late 70's-80's with alot of problems and disasters. Thats why you never saw any kits. The distance between the rack and column will change with every bump. I wouldn't use it.
On my 57 I have a run of the mill Chevy steering box circa 70's-80's pickup, had to put a little twist in the pitman arm to level it out, I think 2 of the factory hole even lined up but it's been 20 years since I mounted it!
Could you post some pics? Please? And any other info on what you did. I would really appreciate it. Thanks! Steve-
Thanks for your input, Ive seen a few of those threads. They seem to just turn into arguments over suspension geometry and personal preference. I know my setup will work and have zero bumpsteer and Im using a Jaguar piece that will allow my steering shaft length to change. Just like you said, Im trying to get something better than a steering box.
1) how close is too close? If its at full compression, it can't move any more, just missing should work. You can always add a bump stop to assure it will stop with clearance. How often do you expect to see the truck at full compression anyway? 2) Limit the travel, don't move the rack. 3) There has been a thread on here where they used a chain drive system to lower the steering column by a couple inches at the firewall. Something like that would help your angles a lot. It should show up with a search for "chain drive steering". I was a little uneasy about it at first, but they have convinced me it is another option. Gene
As far as limiting the travel, Im just worried about a bumpy ride. It only has around 4 inches of suspension travel up front. Ill have to check out those chain drive systems.
Depending on how stiff or soft your springs are, 4" should be plenty. The important measurement is how much travel from ride height to full compression. Under normal driving conditions, I'd be surprised it most suspensions actually move more then couple inches total. Its those big dips in the road or steep driveway approaches that make the suspension move a lot, and most people slow down when we come to those if we can. As long as you have a couple inches of compression from ride height before you bottom out, and your springs are not soft for the load, you should have a decent ride. If your hitting bumps hard enough to lift the wheels off the ground, its never going to be a nice ride. Gene
Aside from steering, Im looking into windshield and backglass rubbers, and I found some reproduction ones from Steele Rubber products for about $150 each. Or i could just buy the same profile rubber by the foot from them and find a way to round corners with it and connect it end to end. Anyone out there "made" their own windshield gaskets? And as far as the doors go, I have nothing to go off of for a cut away profile of the gaskets/rubbers. So if anyone could sketch up the profiles of the rubber used for your C series dodge, it would be REALLY helpful. I could use a drawing of the following: door to cab weatherstripping/gasket window channel seal upper window channel wiper lower anything else im missing
Rubber: Did you check with Bernbaum, Roberts Motor Parts & Kanters? I know Bernbaum lists all sorts of windshield gaskets but on many of those you will recieve generic gasket material that has to be cut to fit, that happened with my '60 Plymouth.
Bernbaum's - I used their gaskets for the windshield and the back glass in my '55 C-3. Both worked great. Bought a long length of cotton rope from Lowes to help with the installation. I also watched a few videos on youtube about installing rubber and windshields, etc. Windshield went in easily and quickly. Back glass was another thing. Because of the large, curved back glass in my '55 it took a while, but I got it in. I have a friend who manages a factory that produces rubber moldings for Chrysler and he brought me some weatherstrip for my doors (free of course.) Bernbaum's does carry the door gaskets as well. I have been to Steel's website and they carry the same stuff. You just have to look around and see what's out there and decide for yourself. Steve-
Just happened to have a picture of my door seals, taken before paint, saved. Here is the profile. Have a few more pictures showing where they are located on the door if you need them
Aside from the windows, I need to get some hanging pedals out of a junkyard car to use in the 55. Does anyone know of some good looking ones i could find? I don't want a massive brake pedal, and ideally i would like them to easily mount to the firewall.
Back to the windows, I really need help on this one. Im not sure what to use to "glue" the rubber gasket together after its been cut. I thought RTV would work, but no.
The Jalopy Journal
