It's been a comedy of errors with the disc brake upgrade for my '60 F100, so I'll just cut to the chase. The master cylinder I was going to use actually broke while we were bleeding the system so I'm wondering what would be the right choice, since I was just going to do a trial and error with the one I had sitting here. The brake lines are all 3/16", the rear drums have the stock cylinders, and the front calipers are '75 Impala (and the like- ECI Kit). I'm going to run manual discs (engine runs like shit with power booster -11" hg vacuum at idle). ECI recommends mid 80s Lincoln, but if it's the Town Car, parts sites suggest that's a 1.125" bore, Speedway supposedly sells a knock off kit and they recommend a 1" bore. I would just go with what ECI recommends, but I've had some fitment issues with their kit that I would not have expected, so I don't want to throw more money at a master to find out that I'd have been better off with a different one. The way I understand it, the smaller the bore, the less pedal pressure needed to stop the vehicle. I also see that they made an early '70s Corvette with manual disc brakes. Should I just use that one? Does anyone have any recommendations? Thanks.
Always match the M/C to the front brakes. Soooo, use a '75 Impala (power or manual, whichever you have) master cylinder. Use the same pedal ratio that GM used, too, for best effect. Whenever I have strayed from this formula, I have been unsatisfied. Cosmo
Yup.. mixing components is like starting out drinking scotch and switching to Night Train at some point. Your results WILL vary. If you can find a "75 Chevy donor car or one similar, grab all the hydraulics out of it, junction block, proportioning valve, etc. Bob
Use a 75 Chevy pickup master cyl. Manual brake , front disc. I have used this cyl for decades on race cars & project cars . Works perfect ! Dave
This past weekend, I just mounted and plumbed in a CPP corvette style manual master cylinder on my 1960 F100. It has a 1" bore, and I also bought a matching disc/drum proportioning valve from CPP. I'm hoping they work well with the impala calipers and stock rear drums. If not, I will be in the market for a front clip.
Thanks for the help. That one for '75 Chevy truck seems like it should work- calipers match up with the car of same year- which is what I am supposed to have here. Thanks.
I've built 4 different manual disc cars and trucks using a 7/8" piston MC with really nice results. The ECI kit probably uses the same large bore caliper I got in a FatMan kit I put on a 47 Dodge truck front end. You need a MC with enough of a stroke (volume) to work with a big caliper piston. It don't look old is the problem... The Wilwood 7/8" MC and a 6 to one pedal ratio really make for superb pedal feel. You have to get used to having longer pedal travel than the over boosted 60's disc equipped cars had, but you can't go back once you get used to the pedal feel. Install it with an adjustable push rod and make sure the MC piston bottoms just before it pedal hits the floor. PM me for more info if you want. The MC - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wil-260-9439/overview/ You can get them in black too so they "blend" better, but save the $ and paint yourself with aluminum primer and black paint - http://www.wilwood.com/MasterCylinders/MasterCylinderProd.aspx?itemno=260-9439-BK Bench bleed it on the car with the little kit they include with the MC. It works great as long as you make sure you can bottom the MC piston in the car by using the adjustible push rod. You can also make your own kit with spare parts -
MC for manual disc/drum 1976 F100 2WD Cardone "MANUAL Dual Master Cylinder" Part # 101617 Here is a parts list: http://www.ford-trucks.com/article/..._Brakes_Disc_Brakes_in_a_1957__1964_F100.html
is the master cylinder mounted to the firewall? if its drum rear run a 10lb residual pressure valve to the rear. also whats your pedal ratio? Dane is spot on. but dont bench bleed your master cylinder with hard line, use clear line. The whole point of bench bleeding is to see the bubbles and air. 7/8 bore m/c and 6 to 1 pedal ratio should be easy enough for an 88 year old man to use.
6:1 is the ratio. I'm not so sure I'll be able to explain a $200 master cylinder, when one for $40 will work. It looks great, but I don't think it is likely. Wow, Pigpin, that link would have saved me so much legwork, swearing, throwing things, and m-fing ECI. I bought the "complete kit," which didn't some with hoses or dust caps. I also encountered the caliper nibs AND brake pad circumference rubbing the hub. I called ECI and they thought it was a fluke with the rotor, but highly unlikely for both sides, and wondered (and had me second guessing) if it was installed correctly. I offered to email a photo and the guy who has the email address was out for the week. Issues aside, I really liked the guys at ECI, and I'm glad that the brackets are USA made. The day we did it, my buddy worked on the passenger side, while I assed with the master cylinder adapter and bench bled that. He made the remark:"it would be great if these instructions actually had photos in them." The link you sent would have been perfect. I did the driver's side with his oversight...he failed to mention that kingpin nut business, so it looks like I have to pull that bracket off and spin that around. I'm just wondering how much shit needs to come off for that to happen. Maybe I'd be better off collecting stamps...
Look up some mid-70's Ford small or mid size car with manual disc/drum on Rock Auto's site. They'll have a 7/8" bore and work well. From less than $20 for a rebuild on up. Two bolt flange. Blue
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