C/Gas 283 build: Stroke (327 crank), or long rod?

I took a picture of the 350 crank I drilled. It's a steel crank still standard. I just layed a tape across the front counterweight and there's not much difference between the 283 and the 350. It is drilled through all 4 crankpins. It's balanced to a set of stock polished rods and a set of heavy arias pistons. Alot of the high dollar lightweight cranks come drilled.

 

ok - you've had enough time. What are you going to do BRAD????

 

well????????????

 

your son likes blowers....


and heroin....

 

are you using a 55 block with no oil filter pad?

 

Sounds like an expensive way to do something that could be done cheeply. That didn't stop me from building my 12 second 283 for my 55 chevy however...

Stock stroke 283, forged stock length rods, 097 duntov cam, angle milled bowtie 2.02 heads 57cc. Forged flat tops. Steel shim head gasket. If I had it to do again, I would have just got some custom forged dome pistons to run the compression sky high. I most likely had only 10 to 1. Still strong enough to move my 55 4 dr 12.98 sec in the quarter.

That said, my stock 327 with the old 30/30 cam and the same heads before I milled them and flat top pistons ran a little stronger, and was much more driveable.

Let the good times roll.




P.S. Uncle Sam is not my nanny!

 

Sure is a lot of "drama" to have no side mounts.

 

I'm working on a 1/4" stroker big journal 327 for my Anglia project. .................uh, wait a minute, I guess that's kinda like a 350, right?????? LOL
Larry T

 

Case and point: I later ran these same 12.98 times with a stock truck block 350 with 1.94 cammel heads, flat tops and that 230/230 dur 480/480 lift cam everyone runs cause it sounds good... Same 4 speed, 4.11 gears this time instead of 5.14s. 6000 rpm launches and shifts instead of 7800 rpms, nicer street manners, easy to find parts, and cheaper!

 

No 350 is 3.48 stroke, so 3.5 would be 352

 

Only if you didn't bore it. Yea, I know it's knit picking, but so is .020 stroke. (G)
Larry T

 

my little cast crank 64 283 cast piston will turn 6500 and its a good time. baby cam, no more than 6500 the springs float but up till then its a party -

 

this is a intresting question a 283 with a 3.25 stroke ?? how much torque blowen or carb what cam what heads and how fast could one make it rev befor brakeing

 

Block is at Lamar Walden's getting punched .060.
I picked up a 327 crank at my last swap meet, but I'm a little uncertain about it. The mains are standard, but will need to be turned, while it looks like the 2.10-inch con rod journals have already been turned down .020. I'll drop it off and see. If it can't be saved, I'm out $40, and will buy a crank from Lamar.

Double-hump 1.94 heads... Screw-in studs have been done, valve job done on the seats, and I'm going to do a simple (very simple) clean up around the bowl area, but nothing fancy or exotic.
Lamar advised that while a .060-over 283 block will clear 2.02 intake valves, the valve is so close to the cylinder bore that it shrouds the valve and you end up actually doing more harm than good.
I tend to believe him for two reasons: One, he's done most everything you can do with a small block Chevy, and two, he had no reason to lie about it. It wouldn't have taken his guys a single bit more work to put bigger valves in the heads, and it wouldn't have cost me any more, so if bigger valves would have been an improvement, we'd have done them.

I haven't decided on a cam yet. It will probably be a solid roller. I can't really see a reason not to.

I'm also considering 4-bolt mains, and I haven't picked out the rods yet either--both of these might be overkill, but I really don't like the idea of driving over a crank.

I've got a brand new Edelbrock tunnel ram, but it doesn't have the boss for the fill tube (no boss at all). I'm looking for someone to trade this intake for a used fill-tube tunnel ram.

-Brad

 

brad,
i realize this is an ancient thread but what ever happened to this motor? did you run it in anything? did it rev hard? make good power?

 

Were this a common engine like a 350 block, and would be torn down every season, I'd say turn the pistons 180 degrees in the bore, so the offset wrist pins offset in the other direction AND go with stroke. It acts like a longer C'rod does (pushing the piston up to TDC sooner, and holding it longer).

It will make the piston slap when cold, like a forging. It also can increase the thrust the crank applies to the cylinder walls when the crank turns, hence the point about a block needing checking for unusual wear...esp. when you overbore a cylinder.

running high RPM with an overbore MAY result in the piston rings not sealing if the thin walls start movin'round. I'd go with the stroke, its going to spread power across the RPM band, so when you shift the trans, the engine doesn't "drop" out of its powerband and you have to build up to it again. It will pull the pistons further out the bottom of the bore, but it will do it quicker too, which can cause a pressure drop in the cylinder before the intake valve opens, helping "breathing" of the intake port.

the added leverage can also help "pump" the exhaust gases out compared to stock stroke. Oh, and a 350 crank in an engine with this bore gets 333cid.

 

Good question I was thinking the same thing



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They did an article on the build in Hot Rod Deluxe a couple years ago, made right at 400 HP and I think the torque was around 380.