ignition wiring help needed

I am wiring my 31 A but for some reason cannot get my head around wiring the ignition switch
I plan to run the positive wire to the starter then straight up to the ignition , then back to a fuse panel , from there it will feed all my accessories .
but the longer i stare at it the more i'm unsure which the live from the starter goes on and which shound go off to the fuse panel so i have to turn the key before i get power to the lights etc
the ignition is a autowire unit with bat, ign , acc and st on the reverse
perhaps i've just been out there too long

 

Normally the headlights, horn and brake lights are unswitched. They come off the fuse to the respective switch for each component on the dash then to the lights, brake light or horn. They should work whether you have the ignition switch on or not.
Yes the battery wire and the charge wire should go to the starter/solenoid. The main power wire should go from there to the fuse box. All the power to the car needs to be fused. I have seen some folks will run a power wire unfused to the ignition switch..I like it fused.
If you are using an amp gauge then the charge wire should go through the amp gauge then to the main battery pole on the starter/solenoid. I don't recommend amp gauges, I prefer a volt meter instead. Amp gauges can be a very good source for a fire...well not the gauge itself but the wire getting shorted on the way to and from the gauge.
Hope this helps..just don't let the smoke out of the wire.
Your results may vary

 

I have a 283 with a push button start but this is before the push button:
Start, run match on ignition switch and starter.
Ign1 and Ign2 go to each side on the ballast resistor
One goes from ballast resistor to coil not sure if it is + or -
Battery fed to starter and ignition on batt port from harness
My lights are fed off batt through wiring harness

 

Battery terminal on the starter (where the batt cable is located) to fuse panel, from fuse panel to batt terminal of the ignition switch. the 'on' part of the ignition switch is to the ignition. the 'start' part of the ignition switch is to the 's' terminal on the starter..the little post. This wire should be broken thru a 'neutral saftey switch' to prevent start while in gear.
You might have complications if you have the original flattie starter and a modern ignition switch, the modern switch will cut out the 'on' piece of the switch when in 'start' and if that is the case then you might want a seperate toggle switch for the ignition unless the starter has another terminal to backfeed the coil during 'start'
Didn't mean to get longwinded.
Has the starter been converted to negative ground? Then there is an additional solenoid where you can make your connections.

 

cheers
the starter is a powermaster unit ,
not sure why i have it in my head to go straight to the ignition from the starter ! i think it may because the key can turn one notch anti-clockwise and i thought i needed power to the ignition first to power the light switch etc via the fuse panel
so i guess if i split that wire and run it through the fuse panel then i can lose the wire i had returning to the fuse panel from the ignition,