how high will an A be with unmodified rear crossmember

Can I see some photos of Model As that do NOT have a raised rear crossmember?

Trying to understand the ramifications of not raising it on my 1930 frame.

Seems the majority raise it to lower the car.

I am aiming for a traditional highboy (ladder bar etc) and am struggling to visualize just how high a highboy it will be without cutting the rear end...

 

To figure out ride height....
Find the height of the tire you want to run, say 29". Divide by two is 14.5". That's wheel centre. Add half your axle housing thickness, say 1.5". Add the clearance you want between the rear axle and frame, maybe 4". Less if your roads are smooth. Ours aren't. So...14.5+1.5+4=20" to the "hit point" of the frame. Set the crossmember at 20". If that's too high, time for frame work.
Ralph

 

Outside before anything:



Outside after the rear step:



outside after rear step and drop axle:

 

Nice,
I,like the stance

 

If you search for no surfs hamb BBQ thread you can see at least three vehicles that have stock A chassis. There's a speedster, a t roadster and an early A pickup. The photos start around page 5 I think and there are a couple videos as well.

They feel a lot lower in person compared to in the photos

 

Not to thread jack but anyone have photos of an A chassi that is all stock other then using a T rear spring? That's supposed to be a good drop with out any cutting but I havn't seen any photos aimed at showing that.

 

Great pictures Hitchhiker! That really puts it into perspective...

 

Mine has a T rear spring and a 32 front axle, a couple leaves out at each end.



Sent from my DROID device using the TJJ mobile app

 

Mine has some leaves removed and a reversed main leaf..

 

my high school ride from back in 1964 had an original frame/crossmembers. Modified spring in rear with 8.20x15s. Front was a 3", iirc, Mordrop with 5.60x15s. Bad photo, but you can probably see the white showing from the tire burned edge of the rear fenders (at about 1 to 2 o'clock) from occasional rubbing with passengers in the back. That was pretty low for an A back then.

 

Opinions , every body has one and i think the T spring works as well if not better and you don't have to cut up a good frame

 

hotrodmicky, thanks for the input. How much 'step' did you put into the frame/crossmember?

tim, thanks, will go search for that thread.

 

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=773139&page=6

that should link to the page that photos start if you haven't' found it yet

 

Here is mine, stock 31 chassis with a model T spring

 

Here is what I use for a visual clue.
Lowest line of the car thru wheel centerline.
They are up there, higher than most OEM 4x4 rigs.
The aprons and running boards visually lowersit by about 9"
A 32 frame visually loweres it by 6"

 

OK, thanks everyone. I am planning on running fenderless so it would appear I need to rethink my frame...

Will start looking into easiest way to raise rear cross member. Need also to get an idea as to HOW MUCH lift to give it. I am not trying to get the car in the weeds. Something like hotrodmicky's last photo in post #4 is what I am after.

 

They are hitchhikers pics i just copied them in my reply

 

stock A rear?

 

Thanks hotrod, I PM'd hitchhiker. Some useful replies. Am hoping the boxing work I am doing won't make any 'adjustments' more difficult than they need to be.

 

this is your most important and relevent question so far. I can't believe no one asked this yet??

stock A rear spring is directly over the rear axle. almost everything else ends up with spring behind the axle. I forget the actually number but you move your rear crossmember back something like 7-10 inches. you said you were running ladder bars?? tell us about your rear end and rear spring that you plan on using!

 

OK, here is where I am.

I have an old Bronco rear 9 inch axle. Springs...havent gotten that far in my thought process. I called Posies yesterday to talk about my options and when they asked spring perch width (46", 48") for a ladder bar setup I realized I need to do more research/thinking before I step forward.

Rest assured I am well aware there is a TON I do not know. This is my first build.

I have a stock frame which I am in the process of boxing. I have a 4" dropped axle for the front and am aiming for a traditional highboy stance. I am seeing lots of cars with a rake/stance similar to what I am after seem to include a Z'd rear. I didnt realize doing this would move the spring backwards.

So...the spring moves backwards but the axle remains same, meaning identical wheelbase.

Sorry to sound so dumb, assume everyone was at this stage in their learning at some point.

 

If you put the spring behind the axle, you can get the rear lower without stepping the frame, but the frame will have to be extended the same amount the spring centerline is behind the axle centerline to keep the wheelbase the same.

Sent from my DROID device using the TJJ mobile app

 

There's a lot of ways to skin this cat.

A TRADITIONAL z step at the rear is very ( again) traditional and not overly complicated - gets you almost 3". Slight floor modification at the very rear. Wheel base and location stays the same.
Some rear spring modification gets you a couple more inches.
Wheel base again stays the same and traditional.

See Vern tardels's book for more in depth explanations.

Ok now how about a pic of what you are after stance and ride height wise and we'll most likely be able to tell you how to get there.

 

31vicky, thanks for the guidance.

This is pretty indicative of what I want to aim for.

This is the Rolph coupe (coincidentally also with a nailhead).

 

Rolphs car is sitting on a 32 chassis.
That visual line I mentioned earlier is an automatic 6" lower job because of the frame.
The rear also has a kick up in back from Henry, and there's probably a c notch and flatter crossmember back there to make it a tad lower

 

sell your A frame and buy a 32 frame. the 32 frame makes the model A coupe look totally different. in a good way!

 

Thanks guys, sorry I wasn't more clear. I am looking for that stance, using my A frame.

I will do some research, you guys have put me on the right road. I am looking to retain the original frame/body combo. I do understand this will give a different visual line.

Thanks again,.

 

That stance and proportion only comes with a 32 frame.
retaining the A aprons on a a frame is similar at a quick glance.

Visually it adds 6" to the bottom of the car as in distance from window to frame.
That's why it looks so cool.

Most guys start by determining the rear wheel placement in the wheel well, and choosing a rear tire diameter. That pretty much decides the axle location in relation to the body. You'll see things need to be cut in the frame and wheelwells to get it there.

 

Look through this thread,

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=322162&highlight=on+model+frames

 

I'm at work now so no pics, but thats what I'm doing. I reversed the eyes too..