So I've been trying to determine how I want to build my 327. It will be going into a model A roadster with a 4 speed saginaw, 4:11 gears (also have 3:55s) and 30" tires. I figure I'll need / want a pretty revvy engine, but also one I can live with on the street. I currently have a '62 327 with power packs, but I also have some mildly ported 462 camel humps with 2.02 / 1.6 valves that have been rebuilt. I don't know if the heads have been milled, so I will need to CC them. I am shooting for a static compression ratio of 10:1 to 10.5:1, possibly 11:1 if it will run on pump gas OK. I plan on running my Offy 6x2 intake with stromberg 97s, but may wind up going to a 3x2 for simplicity. The ignition is a Mallory dual point with mechanical advance and the exhaust will be lakes headers. I have been looking around at cams and the two that are catching my eye right now are: ISKY Z-25 240/240 @ 0.050" duration 0.480" / 0.480" lift 0.2" / 0.2" valve lash cold (0.18" / 0.18" hot) 108* LSA 2500-6500 RPM range OR........ SCHNEIDER 137F 230/230 @ 0.050" duration 0.480" / 0.480" lift 0.14" / 0.14" lash (not sure if hot or cold) 110* LSA 2000-6500 RPM range I'm thinking a single pattern cam would be better than a split with the free flowing lakes headers, right? I'd love to get you guys' input and evaluation on my selections or if you feel that there's a better cam for my application please let me know. Anyone with any first hand experience with either of these cams would be great also. Thanks!
No direct experience with either cam, but the first one should be quite a bit choppier than the second, with the tighter lobe centers. Assuming manual brakes, the first cam will be more fun, second might get the nod for low rpm smoothness & driveability in traffic, especially if you go with the 3.55's.
run one close to your 1st one listed pulled strong to very hi rpm....13.5 comp mondello modified heads
Both of those look like fairly radical old school cams. Of the two I would choose the first, but cam technology has progressed quite a bit since those were designed. Paraphrased from an accomplished cam designer: Lift is the ability to make power, duration controls the rpm band where it happens. Tighter LSA will generate more overall torque at a lower rpm. Lift is more critical on the intake, duration is more critical on the exhaust. I'm not seeing much lift on either cam, modern cams in those duration ranges would be over .500 lift. Either cam would be fun, but there are better grinds out there. Devin (another one)
This type of modern grind would make more-better power. http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/cam-specs/Details.aspx?csid=226&sb=2 More lift same rpm range
I have ran an Isky Z-35, [email protected] and .525 lift on 108's. It was miserable on the street in a 2600lb car with 3.73 gears and a 4 speed. Only made about 8" of manifold vac and had to run it at 3500+. If you are going to run multiple carbs stick with a cam on 110 centerline or wider. The Schneider cam would be my choice.
I'm with 4 pedals. Duration looks fine but you're gonna want more lift - 500 to 510 I'd say and 110 lsa. Delta Cam in Tacoma WA will look at your whole package and grind a cam custom for your setup. Not expensive either. Might be an option rather than a "shelf" cam.
Cam technology has come so far in the past 20 years that there is no reason to run a solid cam anymore unless you are drag racing. Some of the newer cam grinds will out perform any of the old cams we used to hold in high esteem like the 30-30, etc. Plus, on the street you will not be adjusting valves every so often. I would call up the cam maker of your choice, give them all the specs and let them tell you which one you should use. If you really want power and great performance, go to a roller retrofit cam and get the best of both worlds, and no need to dump zinc in with every oil change for the rest of your life. Don
This is great advice from everyone I'm totally open to all suggestions. I didn't realize multi carbs like a wider LSA but it makes sense now that you mention it. Posted from the TJJ App for iPhone & iPad
I've posted this in a few of the DZ threads. I had an Engle EP-25 solid lifter cam in a DZ302 and it sounded and performed fantastic. Street & strip, brackets, moderate built. 10 to 10.5:1 compression. Powerband 2500-6500 RPM. PN 1093 Valve Lift with 1.5:1 IN .507 EX .507" Advertised Duration 280° Cam lift IN .338 EX .338" Duration at .050 IN 244° EX 244° Lobe separation 108°
Two thoughts: Big inches will tolerate more duration than small inches. A 327" is small today. What works in a 350"/383/400" will be choppy in a 327". Individual tolerance for cams makes it difficult to give a recommendation, but anything more than [email protected]" is too much for me in a 327" daily street driver. And yes, your two first cams are old school. They will sound bad, but won't make the power a more contemporary grind with more lift and intensity will. jack vines
Even 230* with a solid lifter? I'm not dead set on a solid cam but for some reason the idea resonates with me Posted from the TJJ App for iPhone & iPad
Racer Brown in Baltimore Md. Has a tight lash (.016-.018) .520 254 @.050 that seems to work in anything. We have used it in 383 Chryslers and 383 Chevys. 400 and 455 Pontiacs and 327 Chevys. It has crazy low end and I have run it to 7000. 383 Chryslers have a 3.38 stroke, not much longer than a 327 with 3.25. It also sounds REAL good. He would more likely recomend a .480 [email protected]. Hyd.
Modern design, high efficiency cams would have over .500, and usually make more power without being more radical, like 4 Pedals & others have said. When I saw the old school .480 cams listed, I figured the op was looking to trade max HP for (hopefully) a little more cam longevity. Op's smaller engine, solid litter/flat tappets, old school multi carb intake, old school ignition all added up to fun factor over maximum power for me. Some kind of max velocity cam would defiantly produce more power, but if the easy ramps of an old school grind still have their place, a retro build like this would probably be it. If you do go for a more efficient cam, check out the retrofit roller cams too. Good luck!
Either heads will work fine. I would suggest getting the "Desk Top Dyno" program and check out building your engine on that program first to find the best set up. As far as old school goes, A model A roadster, 4 speed, 327 and solid lifters, I love it. The Desk Top Dyno is very accurate and can save you lots of money selecting the right parts the first time. It will let you see what really works and what doesn't. I recently put a "too quiet" exhaust system on my T coupe. So a solid lifter came goes in next. Never got a ticket for having excessive engine noise.
Thanks, for your suggestion and everyone else' advice has been great. I totally get the modern cam vs. old school cam thing, but after thinking about it one could argue (successfully) that ditching the multi carb setup in favor of a 4 barrel would further improve performance. Quite honestly I doubt I'd ever be able to really put all of the power down with the bias plies etc so eaking out every last bit of horsepower might not be all that important. My thoughts are now to find a cam that gives the old timey solid lifter sound and still be street able. Sorry for the rambling stream of consciousness. Posted from the TJJ App for iPhone & iPad
all depends on your driving and how much!!! the odd race or hero street strip go lift and duration follow instructions on box for daily driver to go long and far on highway at bout 2400 rpm ish go low lift .45 ish and much duration as you feel like you can easily drive a lift rules cam on highway and around town and on highway it rules thats over 300 duration it will last forever make you jiz an go like snot plus get good fuel milage my daily driver is 81 gmc 1/2 ton with 307 - thats same stroke as 350 cept pistons are 283 um mine is bored 20 over and i'm using 400 crank comes out to 354 ishs motor is cam lift rules under 360 cubes rule engine awesome around town and on highway its to cool to describe here once it hits cam its gone -you can build a good motor that makes power with low lift an lots of duration -you do want compresion though 11 to 1 is streetable
People today don't want to spend an hour once in a while adjusting flat tappets. That's why you get the hydraulic roller recommendations. Nothing sounds cooler in an old school hot rod than a healthy flat tappet bump stick. With proper break in and poly locks they do not need that much attention. You want to spend time with your hot rod anyway. So an hour once in a while is therapy. Stick with a solid cam. don't go crazy on the lift so you are killing your springs. How many times are you going to be at redline ? I have made many cross country trips in a solid lifter hot rod with no issues.
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