I am beginning to restore a 1951 Chevy Pickup. I am currently in the planning stages. What I am looking for is guidance and suggestions. Is a Chevy 250 (non-integral head) a good choice with the 700R4 transmission? Will I be able to cruise at 70 mph at a reasonable RPM? I've read the different threads on the subject, it seems others are happy with this setup. Cost is an issue, I am not poor but I am not looking to break the bank with this project. I want a reliable truck out of it. I have created a mission statement and started a list of features I want the truck to have: Mission Statement This is to a frame up restoration.The intention is to keep its original aura, but modernize it (disc brakes, 15 inch wheels, 12 volt, automatic transmission and maybe power steering) It should be comfortable to drive, on a daily basis, on highways and around town without any issues with power at cruising speeds or town speeds. I do not want a hot rod. This is about restoring it to a fun good looking truck that does justice to the era. Color undecided Engine Chevy 250 inline-6 non-integral head 390 cfm Holley 4 barrel 307 Flattop Pistons - True flat tops will put it around 9 to 1 H.E.I. distributor with a recurve kit Offenhauser intake Add bigger valves to your head and do some mild port clean up *Don't make the mistake of mixing up 6 and V8 rocker arms, as the sbc rockers are 1.5 and the 6 rockers are 1.75. Transmission 700R4 - Out of an S10 or TH350 Front End Mustang II Front Suspension Rear End 3.36? Misc. Chrome grill Chrome bumpers Bench seat 15 inch rims (keep 6 lugs if possible) Any feedback or suggestions is appreciated --Chuck
Congrads on your truck. Sounds like you have a good plan. If you don't want to break the bank, keep the modifications to a minimum. I would forget about the IFS and keep the stock I Beam.
I thought about that, but I'd still want disc brakes on the front and the conversion kits were almost as expensive as the IFS. Is there an option where I can adapt existing front discs to fit the truck?
I am not sure about that but you should join the A.D group and I am sure someone can help you on the disc brakes. I am keeping my 51 as stock as possible, 216, torque tube, 3 on the tree, etc....etc....but that's me. I like them more O.G. Maybe you can get it on the road first, drive it a little, and then change the front suspension. One thing I know that if you try and do too much at one time and you're on a budget, it can get frustrating. Good Luck and keep us posted on the progress.
My advice.... The 1954-62 235 full pressure six is the best of chevy sixes and will bolt in. A S-10 5 speed will bolt or can be made to bolt to the stove bolt bell housing. You can get a higher gear for the tourge tube rear and and be able to cruise at 60-65 with the original 3spd. The 216 can be upgraded with insert bearings. There is cool speed equipment available for 216s-235s. Drum brakes, especially on a six cylinder truck contrary to modern thought actually did work. A front end rebuild including the steering will make that truck drive easy, especially with the big steering wheel and skinny 16s. Chevy 6 lug truck wheels will fit all the way to the early 1990s. There is a lot of hidden cost in the Mustang II kits. Its always cheaper to stay as close to stock as possible. 350 cfm may be a little much for a 250. If I were to go through the trouble of changing from a stove bolt engine a 250 would not be my choice. I would choose a 283 or 327 if I were to change to a different type engine. SBC, ram horn exhaust, stock front end, chrome steelies wheels with rears reversed, stock steering, auto with a floor shiter, drum brakes, ass high stance and some dual pipes the truck will look like it drove off the set of American Grafiti, a early 60s hot rod. Get her going just like she is first. You may like it that way.
@F-One, you have a good point. As a first project, keeping the changes to a minimum is the way to go. There is a lot of restoration work ahead of me. I did not consider changing the gears on the Tourge tube rear... I want to stay with an inline 6. I was under the impression that the 216 was a bit underpowered and the only hesitation with the 235 is it's a bit costly to fix up, but if I am not swapping out transmissions it might not be a big deal. Thanks for the pointers, you've given me some things to think about.
IFS, disc brakes, completly different driveline? Dude that's a rod not a restoration. I'm happy with a warmed up 235, 3:55 gearset, radial tires and all other mechanicals as it left the factory.
Only thing I would add to Curt B is to maybe go with a T-5. Keep it simple. You're biggest danger is running out of enthusiasm, not money. Simple is easier, less expensive, and faster. I have a 250 in my 48 (chevy (car), th350 and 57 chevy rear. I love it, and did it all in my driveway.
Consider a late 50's - early 60's 261 c.i. six. They came in larger trucks and school busses, but they are still around. Another good source for building a strong six, and driveline to go with it is the Inliner's International website.
It's not a 51, looks like a 49-50. ECI makes a good kit for the I beam axle. http://ecihotrodbrakes.com/early_chevy_discbrake_conversions.html
Sounds like you have a plan in place. We have a 49 3100 that I upgraded in the late nineties via a 77 GMC I got free. Used just about everything, steering, wiring harness, pedal assy, pwr MC, front cross member (disk brakes) and all four wheels. Used a basically stock 283 +.30 with power pack heads, 305 intakes, a 600 Holley and a TH350, and six cyl 3:40 rear. Been driving it daily ever since. Check out http://Bobsolayce.net go to "our trucks" on the left. You'll love your truck as a daily driver.
henry29 beat me to it. the cab is either a 49 or a 50. you have one piece windows and the side cowl vent. 1951 was the first year of vent windows and the removal of the side cowl vent. i drive my stock 1947 truck around town every day that it is working. 216 engine, enclosed driveline, floor 3 speed, 6 volt electrical, solid axle up front. i have radials on it now after experiencing bias ply tires. for everyday driving i dont mind the extra comfort of the radials. sometimes it is annoying driving an old truck but 9 out of 9.99 days i would rather be driving it more than any other vehicle i have ever own newer than 2000. sure you give up a lot of the creature comforts of modern vehicles like power steering and power brakes, cruise control, radio, a/c, but its my choice. have fun with your truck.
There are so many options with this truck. SBC, 250, 235, 216... original transmission or new one....
Love it man! I was gonna swap motors in my '51 3100 but the little rebuilt 216 just won't give up so she remains as is until something catastrophic comes up.
Your goals for your AD sound very similar to my own in that you want to keep it simple and also have a reliable/fun driver. For my 51 I went with the 235, a T5, and a rear axle from a 70s K10 with 3.42 gears. I'm keeping the stock front axle and drum brakes for now. I'm still in the build phase but hopefully by the end of the summer I will be able to see how this combo works out. Here is a link to my build thread in case you're interested: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=672888 Good luck with your build and keep us updated with your progress!
my 2 cents- consider a 292, lots of torque and accessory brackets. Consider a 200 4R (have one in my '31 Phaeton and love it). I think your rearend ratio is too high (numericly low) for an overdrive. I run a 3:89 and at 2000 rpms I'm around 65mph. That will put you on the bottom to lower end of the cam. Ford 8", open drive line and you will have a nice cruiser. Also, 1 wire alternator, eliminate the voltage regulator. I'm not a big fan of MII suspensions because of the nuts on top to control alignment.
come on over to the a.d truckers group. also you do not need independent front suspension to get a decent ride. There are many trucks that still today are manufactured with a beam axle. also you can find 235's for a decent price. less than the cost of the adapter plate to make the 700r4 fit on your motor. That's a big trans, I like it in my ot truck. these trucks are fun and pretty simple. by the way my neighbor has had a stock 53 3100 as a DD for the last 28 years. so tons of changes for reliability do not need to happen.
Thanks for all your replies and suggestions. It's helped immensely. I've reworked my specs. I'm going to be less ambitious and keep the restoration simple. The 235 engine is a good idea. It's a drop-in replacement for the 216. The 3.55 gears for the existing torque tube will work nicely (thanks Curt_B). And the 4 speed transmission from Patricks antique trucks looks like a good complement to the 3.55. This should give me the truck I am looking for without having to spend a whole bunch and do a bunch of custom work. Color undecided Engine Chevy 235 Transmission 4 speed transmission (bolt-in..ish) from Patrick’s Antique Cars and Trucks Front End Upgrade to Bendix brake design Rear End 3.55 conversion from Patrick’s Antique Cars and Trucks Misc. Chrome grill Chrome bumpers Bench seat 15 inch rims (keep 6 lugs if possible)
that is a whole bunch easier which means more time enjoying a working vehicle and less time looking at something in pieces. by the way restoration means: a return of something to an original or unimpaired condition. you are getting closer to a restoration than before but still technically you are doing a resto-mod.
The main reason I went with the 3:55 gearset was to keep my column shift 3 speed which was not the most economical way at close to $ 1000 all said and done. I drive a T - 5 equipped S 10 Blazer in the winter months and there's NO WAY I would want the same personality in my AD truck but to each his own and for durability and economics I see why it makes sense to some. No doubt the bendix upgrade will be worthwhile.
I wouldn`t even consider a straight six unless I already had it. Donor cars w/305 or 350/TH350 combos are very cheap and if you get the right one, it provides engine/trans/column/brake pedal & booster/shift linkage/driveshaft and rear axle. Might take a month or two to install but the truck will become a daily driver quality ride. Those old trucks are a pain in the ass to drive stock. I used an `85 Caprice bought for $600 and it provided pretty much everything I needed and scrapped for half my money back when stripped. You`ll still spend a grand to drop the stock axle and add disc brakes but it`s worth it.
I have Huck brakes. My truck stops just fine with new wheel cylinders, bonded brake shoes, rebuilt master cylinder, and old drums.
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