Whaaaa, whaaa, whaaa, Leaky wheel cylinder whiners!

Dick can ignore me but no one can ignore the fact that china is sending us crap

 

Dick, here is a snap showing the labels on the boxes. Hopefully the numbers may mean something.



Thanks for your help.

Mart.

 

wow...and those were the "top quality" ones

 

When you are replacing wheel cylinders one of the first things you should do after opening the box is to pop the cylinder moisture covers, pop the piston pucks and check the seal cup seats remembering or drawing a diagram of how they were dissassembled..

While you have the cylinder opened up lube the seals and side walls with a very light coat of brake fluid and reassemble the parts in the order they were installed. Hint, as you are transitioning from one bore side to the opposite side fill the cavity with a small amount of brake fluid so there will be no air void between the bores. This also speeds up the bleeding process by removing the majority of trapped air. Finish reassembly and clean off all excess or spilled fluid. If you keep the bleeder valve closed no fluid will run out the nippple port and you then can assemble the line to the cylinder and install the shoes. After installing the shoes and the drums you can now go thru the normal brake bleeding process.



Used to be a fella could (read must ) have just rebuilt his own . Now when you buy rebuilt cylinders you need to break them down and re re build them !!!???

When was the last time you saw a wheel cylinder hone at a parts store ?

 

Friday.

 

ha, all this whinning in another thread opens another thread/can of worms. i guess they need to put bar codes on all the junk getting imported from were ever so the dealers can try and send them back to china italy india .. all sales final stuoooooopid american.

funny thing is all the old NAPA USA made wheel cylinders ive used in early ford i never had the "handling issue" either fresh from the box or ones ive put kits in. mine started with made in china

 

Good advice and I don't doubt there is some truth there, However...
Good friend just went through this with Speedway rear cylinders on his '35...the stainless sleeved ones. Small side was fine, but large bore side had a finish so rough that it would catch your fingernail...poured brake fluid. Second set from speedway was the same way. Ended up having to hone them. 4 cylinders, all the same way. Say what you will, but there is definitely some junk out there.
Sam

 

Those were the ones I had the problem with. That fancy ad "stainless is forever". Then when I was given the run around and "out of stock" they wanted me to accept a regular iron replacement and live with it. When I told them I wanted what I paid for even more run around. What's funny is this new thread and title was directed at me over my speedway rant 3 years ago that another member brought back to the top a few days ago . I had moved on a stopped buying anything from them.

Nothing to see here people, move along. But thanks for the jab and the basic auto tech instructions. I can laugh too mister richard

 

Dick, please get this info posted on the Early Ford V8 part of the Ford Barn.

 

Skidmarks...
You went through that 3 years ago? This happened to my friend LAST WEEK.
Speedway rep said they weren't aware of any problems, and sent him another set...they were exactly the same way. That being said, the ones on my 5w (installed early last summer) were fine...
Sam

 

Yeah 2010 was when I had the problem. That's when I made the original post that this post refers to. Anymore issues like this become more depressing then anger. Lack of good anything makes the desire to work on stuff more of a hassel. I use to love cars and swap meets prior to the internet boom . Then it slowly started to become less interesting. 97 percent of the people are cool but 3 percent makes it suck

We are all consumers of everything from food to car parts. We all work for a living ( I guess). And deserve to get decent stuff that we pay for. If one of us gets fucked over by another hamber the post fly up and the comments of draggin people from a car or beating their ass blah blah blah . But when a mongo corporation pushes you aside its treated different. All the lovers and haters join in. Hope everyone else gets their wheel cylinder issues sorted out. I did after a lot of whinning and crying. But I'm a big boy and I can put on my big boy shoes and my big boy pants and move on

The weather is pretty good from 6ft nice veiw too. Love you hambers kisses

 

I have a idea. Why doesn't the sellers of this China crap disassemble each one of these wheel cylinders before shipping off to the customer before blaming the customer for "mishandling" or "playing" with the parts? I too have fought the brand new wheel cylinder leak and had to disassemble them and hone the bore AND buy new kits to put in them before getting them to stop leaking. So here's the process. Buy new wheel cylinders and install and bleed brakes. A few days later when they leak take them apart and notice the bores look rough so lightly hone, clean and reassemble and bleed brakes. A few days later when they leak again take back apart and hone a little more, clean "AND" buy a new rebuild kit and install that and bleed brakes. Now they are fixed. Basically we are buying the rough castings that need machine work to make operational. Just pretend you are buying a preassembled kit that needs finished and its easier to swallow.

 

I had the problem with the stainless is forever cylinders called speedway and they sent me new ones. I was in a hurry to finish the A so I called Spadaros and put there cylinders on, worked great. The Speedway cylinders are sitting on the shelf for the next project so I hope that they work. I've had great service from Spadaro's,Speedway, and Coker and I hope that people support them so they stay in business. When you talk to the rep on the phone treat them nice and you will get better service. As far as the foreign parts welcome to America.

 

I'm planning replacing mine during this build~now i have somthing else to worry about!

 

Ok this is a follow up to the issues expressed by Skidmark and Matt on the leaky 39-48 Ford rear wheel cylinder problem, this is what I have been able to determine.

First these guys aren't nuts about a potential wheel cylinder leak. It appears that there were wheel cylinders imported that have the inlet port angle drilled at an angle and this places the port opening to far up the bore as expressed.

The reason that some are having issue and some are not is due to what I feel is the combination of parts. If you are using worn brake drums turned over .040 oversize you probably will not experience any problems ,with the increased diameter of the drum, the seal of the wheel cylinder piston does not retract beyond the port opening. However if you are using new drums and new shoe combination the thickness of the shoes and small diameter of the drum may compress the wheel cylinder piston seal past the port opening and create a leak.

Since I don't import these cylinders I cant quickly identify where they came from but I have sent emails to the businesses that I know import units to notify them of the issue and am awaiting replies. If you are worried about a potential problem the wheel cylinders that you may have purchased, the problem units can be spotted because the have a counter bored inlet boss face, the correct cylinder has the port drilled flush with the boss face.

At the present time don't go nuts and send stuff back, as events develop I'll keep you posted as to the results. As a precauction just check your cylinders for leaks if you have installed them on a running vehicle.

 

That address some of the issue other have some different problems. I solved mine 3 yrs ago

Maybe the title of this threads needs edited?

A replacement part cures the leak but so much for the ruined paint job soaked shoes and lost time.

Brakes are the most important part of a car to me. Complaints about cheap hub caps or air cleaners- you get what you pay for.

Brakes should be made to one standard -THE BEST and not a cheap line vs a quality line

 

I hope any customers will read all the information here and realize that when it comes to a business' bottom line it doesnt matter whether the customer is right or wrong, they are all just whiners...

 

Thanks for the follow up, Dick.

Nice to be taken seriously when it's a safety critical item.

Mart.

 

Mr. Spadaro, does the piston in the repro cylinder also measure longer than the original? This would increase the clearance problem if so.

 

We also had the same problem this past week with these wheel cylinders and as Mart pointed out the hole was drilled wrong. So is is the up to date from Macs as i just spoke with there tech. He informed me that they have recognized the problem and know they haf a baf batch and will replace them with proper drilled ones or a full replacement value. Good Luck to Everyone

 

Thanks for posting this, Dick. I need to replace a rear cylinder on my Studebaker and you can bet your ass that I would have squeezed it and installed it dry!

 

great info, this will help many of my customer, as well as myself, now i need to go home and hope that's why mine ae leaking

 

Thanks guys. I'm in the process of chasing a wheel cylinder leak as we speak.

 

I ended up rebuilding this one. I really don't think I want to deal with inlet port location issues on new cylinders.

 

I found mine at napa. Had to special order but they looked good inside. I think they were in the $80 range.