I have some areas that are swiss cheese on the '41 COE, but may be difficult to make panels for and repair (at least for me). They are on a body line that's about midway up on the body and look like a set of 3 "bumps". Are there alternatives to making a new triple bump part like using lead and just filling what's there? thanks, Rick
There is no easy fix,,if you cover it up it's just a matter of time before it comes back to haunt you. HRP
You could make a form out of bondo (with the fiberglass in it). Beat out a new patch with the body line in it. Cut out the bad and replace it with new metal.
This isn't popular but if metalwork is absolutely not an option then you can have the body dipped or blasted and then re-enforce the panel from behind with fiberglass mat. The key though is the metal has to be absolutely clean.
I wouldn't use bondo or glass to build those bumps. You could replace the area with flat sheetmetal, then find tubing that's similar to the bump size and split it lengthwise to make two halves. Then the tubing can be welded over your flat sheetmetal to form the bumps you need to match. It will take a little time, but it will be stronger than new and last forever without cracking out.
There was an area like that on my dad's 56 Chevy that was pinholed out pretty bad, but in an area that would have been really tough to make. I blasted it clean (opening up all the holes) and just slowly started welding each one shut, one tack at a time. A lot of holes burnt back, and it took a while, but eventually I got it all closed up, then ground it out smooth. I had been dreading the repair, but in the end I was able to weld it all up solid again just with little tacks and it wasn't that bad, plus I know it's all solid metal there now. Post a pic.
Ok I can see the bumps , but i can't see the damaged parts. Is it just that small area around the cowl ?
If you or someone you know is good at lead, go for it. That's eliminating the possibility of forming a panel if that's just not in the cards. The secret will be in the tinning and then cleaning before the lead goes in. If you remove all of the tinning fluid (acid) a good lead repair will outlast you. Failure is usually acids left behind. Once done, mix up a solution of baking soda and water and wash it well. You'll see where any acid remains, becomes neutralized, then you can shape and finish. Of course the ideal repair is a newly formed panel section, but there's the other danger that's sure to crop up, that being the surface tension in that spot and the subsequent warping sure to follow. It may not move at all, but don't count on it. As picky as I am, I'd lead it and never look back unless the budget/customer demanded otherwise.
A good metal man could make a patch panel using a brake and regular body tools. Or, you could fill it with fibreglass. If you can clean the back of the panel and paint with POR 15 to stop the rust it will last a long time. I would rather work on a spot like that, that had been filled with bondo or fibreglass, than one that was all warped and F'd up by someone trying to weld it, that didn't know what they were doing. Cutting a piece out of an old door would work but who has a 41 Ford truck door? You could take it to a good bodyman, or fill it and cross your fingers. Would rather see you do that, than try to fix it and mess it up. If you mess up and then take it to the body shop it will cost multiple X what it would cost now. Lead fill will not last any longer than fibreglass. Either will last forever, it's the rusty metal that rusts away from behind. If you clean the rust off the back and front and use POR15, fibreglass will last longer than lead. Believe me, I have been working on cars long enough that I remember old cars with patches tack welded on and leaded over, or holes stuffed with steel wool and leaded over, and they rusted away just like a bondo plug or fibreglass plug job after enough years.
a better picture of the actual damage would help greatly in guessing what it needs to repair it. the photo really doesn't show anything.
A picture that actually shows the damage would help. Otherwise we're just guessing. The size, & amount of holes, the amount and depth of any pitting, would determine the repair method I'd use. I can tell you it wouldn't be fiberglass
you would be suprized how easy it is to make a patch, with a little planning I have made some panels that I thought would be impossable...how about making a hammer form out of pipe that has been cut down lengthwise. welding three side to side, then some flat plate on the outside edges so you can clamp the sheet metal to the form. then just beat the sheet down into the form.
And I happen to have a bead roller now.. I wonder if TDK makes dies that size.... I've done hammer forms in wood before.... Bondo and fiberglass actually stand up to the beating???
"I've done hammer forms in wood before.... Bondo and fiberglass actually stand up to the beating??? " The bondo with the fiberglass in it is what I've used and it works fine. I did build it up to give it some mass. It's quick and cheap to do!
I think you could make a form using duraglass or tiger hair or some other brand of fiber reinforced resin. I'd find the best spot to get a form a little longer than you need, like on the door. Then what I'd try, is to find a pipe that will set in the grove with a little wiggle room. Then use a fairly thin metal like 20 gauge. Hand curve it in the middle to get close to the proper diameter and set it in the middle groove. Place the pipe on top of it and gently hammer it till it's formed to fit the groove. Then clamp the pipe down, and bend the metal out over the ridge. Now take the metal out of the mold and bend the ridge area further down then curve the metal up again. Place the metal back in the mold place the pipe back in the center groove like before, and clamp it. Now take another piece of pipe lay it in the next groove and carefully tap it into place, then bend the rest of the metal flat. Repeat on the other side. BUT, even if you're able to make a perfect piece, you still run the risk of doing damage when you weld it in. Or, without seeing a close up, if the holes aren't too big, clean the area real good, make a curved brass paddle that fits the back, and use it to back up mig welds and carefully fill each hole with weld. There's less chance of warping the area because you're welding in small areas a little at a time, and the brass back up is soaking up much of the heat. OR you could just clean the metal real good on both sides. remove all the rust and jagged edges around the holes, even taper those edges inward some with a pick or something so that the filler can be feathered. Then spray both sides with epoxy, then spread duraglass on the back side and let it come through the holes and spread it out on the front. A lot of guys would call this method a hack job, but up that high on a car that will never see bad weather again, it will probably out last you, and ain't that the goal? Or, instead of plastic use lead spread across the back and front if you have the skills. OR, you could leave it alone, do nothing at all to it but call it "Patina", and you'll have crowds gathered around it ooohing and awwwing at every show!
I have some 19G AKDQ that you could almost form that piece by hand. A little finesse with hammer and a sharper edge to get the crease's right and you would be done.
My limited experience would have me holding copper pipe to the back side to avoid melting the metal and burning through and welding the holes shut. ETA: now after seeing the picture, I would re-group and phone a friend!
Hey, From what I'm seein of your last photos, your biggest problem is the rust you can't see! If you could put that whole panel under a microscope you'd see thousands of little rust area just below the surface of the metal. All of those will come back after welding/filling Your only long term hope is to cut ALL of the rusted/pitted metal out, fab a new panel, weld it in, and treat the back of the patch. You could form that patch on a sheetmetal brake, a bead roller, with dies made of hardwood or plastic, or from a hammerform and some corking tools. All of the above methods will require light to medium sheetmetal working skills, but there ain't no better teacher than experience " Meanwhyle, back aboard The Tainted Pork "
If you have access to the back of the area. I would first make a patch panel for installing on the backside with as close as you can get the contour. Do not add the beads to that piece that will the patch harder to fabricate and also pull in. Use sheet metal screws to pull the patch as close as you can get it to fit to contour. Mig weld that inside patch to the inside of the old skin. Start by tacking across opposite sides and try to keep that area cool to prevent heat from warping the existing thin skin. A wet towel on the outside should do it. Now skim coat the original contour with bondo and sand away. That should work without making any fancy tools or patchess, with spit tubes, etc.. My .02.
+1. That cell phone photo doesn't really show any detail of what you need to fix. The simple solution would be to cut a patch panel out of another cab or door but that isn't so simple when you can't run out and do it. The not so simple solution is to make a mold off the damaged section and send that mold/pattern to someone who has the talent and skill to make you a patch panel that you can then weld in. Or: make a hammer form that you can shape the metal patch on and hammer it out yourself. a block of wood and a router would be needed but it can be done.
If you patch over rot or patch it from inside as suggested above it will not last. The welding process causes Corrosion to start and this is then trapped between the two parts and will eat its way out. Besides that you will not be able to planish any distortion. How far does the rot extend?. Someone suggested getting a spare door and using a section from that, this is a good idea. If that is not possible you could make a patch panel. Never cut the old section out until you have a new piece to put in. Start by making a paper pattern, this will show you the exact shape to cut your blank. The part can be done with simple hand tools by forming the part from both sides, chase shape into the piece from one side then define the lines from the other. David
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