Has anyone had a luck with a flux-core wire welder for just occasional use? (sheetmetal and light welding) Did a search but not much info on these; I know most recommend the gas set-up. thanks
Flux core machines have their place along side the others, kinda of step between stick and gas/wire. Flux core is messy, just like stick, with alot of splatter so not so great on sheetmetal projects. Flux core is great outside when the wind is blowing and on projects that don't have to look pretty. You will never run out of gas with flux core and have to stop work. IMHO, flux core on 110volt is better than small stick machines on 110volt. Your results may differ. .
I use it at home, it's not that bad. You have to use a lot of heat or you will have bad porosity. Most folks can't weld sheet metal very well with the heat on high and not warp it, thats a whole new type of welding to learn but it is do-able.
A flux core welder comes in handy on a farm. I believe a floor pan is about the extent I'd use one for on a car. I opted for a Hobart Handler 140 on a budget. 110 unit and it works well with sheet metal.
I got a cheapo HarborFreight fluxcore welder about 2 years ago. Got some good wire and have used it once to patch up an old riding lawnmower deck. It was ugly before AND after. But I'm not very good at welding anyway, if I cared to have a pretty job I'd have had someone do it that knows more about welding than me. But back to the welder? About $100, runs on 110 plus $20 for a roll of Hobart wire and it served its purpose.
It's also nice on thicker parts that you don't have the power for with gas. A lot better penetration on flux.
Standard setting for Flux-cored welding is DC electrode negative, or straight polarity. Straight Polarity (DC-) puts more heat into the work piece, while Reverse Polarity (DC+) puts more heat into the electrode. FC polarity is strongly biased towards heating the work, making it more likely to burn thru sheet metal, but providing better penetration for thicker materials. I've heard of runnig flux core DC+ for sheet metal but ahve not tried it yet myself. Really should just install the gas kit on my small Lincoln 110V.
It all works fine. Just work it. Work the weld. Stop, Pause, Melt, Fuse that metal. Dont get caught up proper settings, conditions, sparking too much, wire sticking, conditions change all the time, welding in the afternoon or at night, metals. Sew that metal. Too Rusty means more oxygen so, it'll burn hotter, pause a second, let it cool & keep welding. I been using a stick welder, it throws a Big piece of bird shit, Fast & Hot! And Jump around in small incriments to prevent warpage no matter the gauge. Everything is possible! <!-- / message -->
What Metaconcepts said. I built my first rod with a 220V stick welder -- frame, sheet metal, everything. You should have no problem with flux core on sheet metal.
I had a flux core, you cannot weld body panels or thin sheet metal with them period. It worked great for frame work and stuff like that. Just save a little more money and buy a mig.
Not true at all......I did quarters, patches and floors on my first major resto with one - still won awards! For $100 and no gas expense, its hard to beat! Although I upgraded to a gas mig shortly thereafter.
Maybe "you" can't, and maybe this cat can't either. But myself, and a lot of others can, period. I am lucky enough to have been blessed with quite a few tools, but I will tell you that I LOVE my little Lincoln with flux core wire. It seems to me that the weld is softer, and easier to work than a mig weld. With practice (just like any other type of welding) you can use a flux core machine to do just about anything. Plus, if you have to do any frame work, and only have access to 110v, that is the machine I would use. Posted from the TJJ App for iPhone & iPad
You could build a house with a hatchet, you can dig a grave with a spoon, hell you could mow your lawn with a chain saw. Welding sheetmetal with flux core can be done, but why would you buy & use the worst possible choice for the job???
I have a 110v Century Mig that I bought from a co-worker for cheap and it came with a full roll of flux core wire. I have used it on heavy stuff where it works great and has good penetration, seems like it welds hotter with flux core. Ive used it on sheet metal too and its easier to blow clear through with the flux core in but once you get used to it and dial in the machine its not hard to weld thin stuff with either.
I love my cheap flux-core welder.. I'm a shit welder but it has done everything I ask it to do.. When or if it breaks(used for 12 yrs), I'll buy another..
I just used my harbor freight 90amp to weld my clutch shaft/bracket on place. Worked great. I had to crank that sucker to 11 to get decent enough penetration. I had to upgrade the ground clamp and install Lincoln flux core wire. It spatters a bit but nothing a flap wheel grinder can't take care of. Posted from the TJJ App for iPhone & iPad
I weld body panels and sheet metal with mine all the time with no problems, Ive done several cars using it, I think I gave $150 for mine at a pawn shop 7-8 years ago.
IMO, gas/wire is a cleaner weld ( less spatter) than flux-core. I'm sure you can weld 2 pieces of metal together with either setup. It's just the amount of time you want to spend cleaning up the work area after you finished welding is the question. Just my .02
I only used flux core for ten years before i decided that i should start useing gas. I can weld sheet metal no problem. Anti spatter spray helps. I did have machines that could be converted to gas. I wouldnt go back to only flux core, but i couldnt do with out it. I keep my 110 machine loaded with it so i can do stuff around my property that doesnt need gas or is outside, or too far for the 220 cord to reach.
Wow,...thanks to everyone for the replies...a lot of good feedback. Up until now I've built many projects only using a gas torch and my old Lincoln stick welder, but I've often thot about getting a wire welder for floor patches, exhaust work and some body panels. I know any kind of welding takes practice and trial and error. Thanks for the comments, this helps a lot.
I can weld better with a flux core welder than most of my friends can with a MIG, and even better than some with a TIG, but I am a welder and I understand all the intricacies of a proper weld. The metal must be clean, the wire speed and heat range have to be correct, and the wire has to be quality wire. I use mine all the time, and I don't spend alot of time cleaning up spatter because the machine is set correctly.
Maybe you can't but i can and DO!!! love my little welder! guys bring me stuff all the time to weld together. When i put patches on i always stick them on with the little one.
This is totally wrong, you have it backwards. On DC current, the negative side of the current takes 66.6% of the heat, making it hotter in essence. For mig welding you will be on DCRP or electrode positive, with the ground clamp on the workpiece, this causes slower welding speeds and greater penetration. Hook your mig gun up to electrode negative and weld, you'll see immediately the difference with penetration, that is if your wire doesn't burn back to the tip. For flux core SELF SHIELDING wire (not using an external shielding gas) the machine should be hooked to DCEN or electrode negative to aid in burner the wire off quicker. If you do add a regualtor and flowmeter and run a gas shield flux core wire, then you would change the polarity to DCRP or electrode positive. I would recommend using gas, C25, 75% argon, 25% CO2 If you go to tig, the current is DCEN as your tungsten is a non-consumable and an excellent emittor of electrons.
I use a 230amp buzz box for stick and a Lincoln 175 MIG. Each have their fortes. For exhaust pipe tacking/welding I use flux core. For frame repair, I use flux core unless the weld needs deep penetration, then I use the stick over the flux core. Steel shelves using square tubing? Flux core. Trailer hitch - stick. Thin sheet metal - short bursts of gas/MIG, usually for stitch welding. Flux core never cares if you leave the gas turned on with a loose hose connection. It's always ready and you can't use too much or too little flux. In my estimation, flux core is cheaper in the long run. The gas bottle complicates matters but is necessary if you want the finest weld possible on light metals. Did I mention aluminum or bronze? They need gas which produces really nice work. Flux core and stick can't touch an aluminum boat repair but MIG can. So, what do you need to weld? There is a 'perfect machine' for every application. Getting good at using it hones your skill. - Dave
I'm seeing 110v wire feed welders advertised at 200 amps these days. What amperage 110v welders are you guys talking about, the usual 100-140 amp?
...any input on this one from Harbor Freight? http://www.harborfreight.com/90-amp-flux-wire-welder-68887-8494.html