Anybody make an all tube chassis? If so what are the formulas to determine what size tubing to use? I'm thinking of making a round tubing frame for Barb's 53 Studebaker Starlight 2 door. It will have a Mustang II and a Corvette rear end ( C4 ) with a 350 Chevy slightly hopped up w/ 700R4. I was thinking of using 1 1/2 or 1 5/8 tubing Double rails with a double X member. We used to race dirt modifieds ( Mod 4's) and built our own frames ( on a frame table ). I've got all the benders. We had to follow rules and specs there. But on this project I have a plan ( in my head so far), but don't know what wall thickness to use to compensate for twist, torsinal strength etc. Any advice appreciated. Thanks, Steve
Hey Steve, I've built my fair share of tube chassis. And I would say 1 5/8 DOM .120 wall would be great for the main tubing, I would double frame it with plenty of short upright supports, and triangulate where you can. There's a lot of flex that the tube chassis will go through, so you will have to plan very well how the tubing will flow from front to rear! Tim
Tim, I'm planned on double framing as well as the X member with the uprights between.Would you put in 45 degree braces between the uprights. I was also thinking ok making uprights out of 1/8 with dimple dies holes Anybody else with suggestions? Steve
I am trying to recall the guy from michigan, i belive i have seen him do double rail tube chassis on tradionals. He makes sandcast gas filler tops, E&J type headlights and turnsignals...craftyb? i think his name is. Outstanding very clean work, he posts progress on maybe a '34 from time to time. Try searching and scrolling thru the membership list. You won't be disappointed. I do tube chassis as well, chromemoly with soft filler rod, double rail but not hamb friendly - a bit more radical, my avatar has the lower section of one as the upper sectionn etc make it hard to get the cab off and on at the time the pic was taken.
They stopped using round tubing years ago because it is so hard to fit brackets, crossmembers etc. Square tubing or channel is a lot easier to work with. Just thought I would point this out.
I just checked out crafty B's website. Holy CRAP! Those gas caps and switch boxes gave me wood! The friction shocks are pretty cool too! Sorry, dont intend to hi-jack, but MAN! Cool stuff!
I don't think you need Chrome moly on a street car, unless you are after minimum weight. Just increase the tube diameter and your stiffness goes up exponentially. Ago
.120 wall DOM Is what you want ,Very strong.. Better check on cost before you jump in. it ain't cheep these days.... around $5-$6 dollars per foot..
DOM would be the best, but I don't think I've ever bought a rollcage kit that was seamless. And I've got them from several different chassis shops (Chris Alston Chassisworks, S & W, Morrison) Larry T
There's more than one way to approach it. None really scream mustang II to me, though. That is a lipstick on a pig approach, when you have a blank sheet to start from. C4 vette and Jaguars have a better stock setup, and it works with chevy ps no stupid pressure reducer needed. your mileage may vary
All 1 5/8" .125 wall HREW. Home made front crossmember with MII based A arms and narrowed R & P. Fiberglass Fiat body. Will be running this spring.
I just picked up a 84 C4 front and rear end. I also got some Exotic Muschel trailing arms, strut rods and the all the brackets new on ebay. tbcworks can you show some of your frames that you built? Bobw I did you have your car at the Duluth World of Wheels last year? If you did I talked to you there. As far as the tubing goes I'l looking into the strength of the 1 5/8 120 wall. I have the dies for the 1 3/4 wall but not for the 1 5/8. Slowly getting the parts to start. Steve
Nothing wrong with 1 3/4" either... The 1 5/8" might be a tad cheaper just because so much of it gets used for drag cars. Just FYI, if you are still thinking double rail, a single large radius die can get you into some trouble when you go to stack the bent sections. We've done several of these for corvettes, and we actually use 2 different radius dies when the bends need to nest inside one another.
Little o/t but here's one I like. We didn't build the frame it came to us to build the car around it. It was all c5 chassis parts and drive train. It was fun as hell to drive had a 33 ford body wrapped around it.
exwestracer, If I keep the bends in the same line above the lower tube I should be alright. I think, but somtimes my ideas could get me 10-15. What radius bends would you use ? I have 3/4x6 pro-tools bender now. I read you bio, and my youngest boy went to WYO Tech in Laramie ( 12 years ago). He was working for a local shop that was shut down by the bank. He is now starting his own shop in the other half of my building. He is just about ready start up. Jerry the paint booth guy is starting to adjust his booth now. Thanks, Steve
Always liked these. Didnt Hot Rod or CC have write up yeaars ago about one of these with a Pontiac 303 Trans Am motor ?That car has stuck in my mind for yeasrs.
No matter what, if you stack them you will get a "wide" or "skinny" spot between the tubes. Depends on the size of the tube, but we usually use 5 1/2 and 6 1/2 radius dies. This seems to work well with 3" spreaders between the tubes. If you aren't doing any compound bends (X and Y transition), it shouldn't be an issue.
I am sure the seamed tubing wuold be fine it good enuf for NHRA but man that DOM stuff sure is nice. If you have 13/4 dies go for it. It would be heavyer but I guess you are not conserned about weight.
I see what you meen on the stacked tube you will need the outside radius of the top tube to fallow the inside radius of the lower tube.
Here is a old thread for tube chassis hot rod. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=714725&highlight=round+tube+hot+rod+chassis
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