I found this a few weeks ago just outside of Lubbock and had it shipped back to my Dad in Dallas. It had been in west Texas entire life and has very little rust considering being left outside. The plan was to just get it running, and then let my brother in law drive it around town. That changed after finding a couple badly damaged cylinder walls when tearing it down. I found a really cheap (basically free after selling the roller) LS1/4l60E to use and my Dad picked up an XJ6 subframe. We will have the motor next week and should be able to get the motor and subframe done over the holidays.
Looks like my dad got the subframe stripped and cleaned up along with the front portion of the frame. The jag rubber frame mounts showed up so he pushed it under to see how everything looked. The trans am will be here next Sunday and at that time we will locate the subframe along with the motor. I hope to come off the subframe with the engine mounts so it can all be dropped as a unit for service. My Dad takes horrible pictures as always.
Ill get better images of the progress over the holidays for sure. Does anyone have any input on how much the rear will need to come down to get a level ride height with the jag subframe on rubber mounts? I am hoping to avoid a notch, but will if need be.
We were able to get the trans am home last weekend and had the motor out a couple days ago. The chassis is already sold and the buyer is picking it up tomorrow. With shipping we have $500 into the motor and trans. We ended up using one of the LS truck oil pans to clear the rack, but other than that the motor fits well without having to modify the jag crossmember. It will be soft mounted, but we did still have to notch it a bit to clear. Next up is frame boxing and mount fabrication. I will relocate and modify the existing trans mount, and engine mounts will come off the crossmember so it can be dropped as a unit.
Well done , The Jag IFS makes an awsome driver out of these old pickups . A tip for you , make sure you use the first section of the Jag column, at the rack it has a "slip" in it . This is to allow for the movement of the rubber mounts on the crossmember. Also , bin the Jag shocks and make a top mount on the crossmember . I'll get you the part number of the ones I use ( I do a few Jag suspension swaps ) and if you look in my workshop album you'll see pics of top mounts . .
Part number for the Gabriel shocks is 69689. 85-88 dodge colt rear shocks, also monroe part number 33133 .
I have been on the hunt for a deal on the Jag steering section, but have not found one yet. Thank you for the tip on the shocks, my dad and I were just talking about that earlier today. We had planned on mounting them to the upper control arm mounting bolts like you mentioned. Do you have any tips for pressing in the lower control arm bushings? I have attempted pressing with pressure on the entire rubber portion, but they it will not fully seat. I am worried pressing on the inner sleeve will tear it free from the rubber.
I was sick for a week after Christmas so things slowed down a bit. The last few days have picked up and the mounts are now tacked in. I need to fit mid-fifty frame boxing panels and will then do the finish welding on everything. The rear mounts will be vertically gusseted to the inner frame boxing panels and I am considering boxing the front of the forward mounts as well.
The motor and trans are now mounted. I forgot to get an image of the trans mount, but we were able to modify and relocate the existing ford engine crossmember to work with the 4l60e. The engine mounts are getting pulled off tomorrow for final welding and a boxing panel added. I picked up a majority of the seals and an oil pan with better ground clearance to use on the motor. Does anyone have any tip for adapting the F-100 steering shaft to the jag hinged joint? Is the ford shaft keyed or smooth under the spiral drive piece?
Found a windshield locally for a good price installed so went ahead and had it done. Still searching for deals on the rest of the glass, but hope to find something soon. We were able to get the spiral drive portion off the end of the steering shaft and it is keyed/grooved. Ill ask again if anyone is aware of a 3/4 steering joint that is machined to fit that stock shaft? If not it looks like we will be having a new solid replacement with D channel made up. My dad is starting on modifying the LS1 harness and fitting the boxing panels this week. He also put in an order for all of the door gaskets, window guide components, lenses, and some trim parts. The power brake master showed up from oldirish on ebay and uses the stock brake pedal which is nice. At this rate we plan to have it driving by mid March.
I made it back again and finished the welding on the front end. My dad has been working on the seat and getting the doors cleaned and assembled. We found an explorer 8.8 to put under it and picked up a 16# mustang fuel tank to rear mount. The remaining fuel parts are ordered along with the bolts and plates for the axle.
As long as he does not get in a hurry he does good work. He did a really good job fitting the boxing panels before I arrived. Made the welding process pretty easy. The mid-fifty boxing kit fit well, but did require a couple hours of grinding to get them where we wanted. I just got off the phone with him and he finished grinding the boxing welds to replicate the factory frame shape/arch. He also got the fuel tank mounted and said it fit really well. A whole bunch of fuel parts also showed up, but still waiting on the pump. We are currently debating if we should just go ahead and bag the front. Also forgot the mention that we now have the rest of the glass and went with the type that has a slight green tint. I was skeptical of the tint at first, but it has grown on me.
street rod lol. Just trying to make a nice driver. My dad sent me this image of the tank installed. The filler will just be a cutout in the bed surface. He also began painting the front portion of the frame.
Looks like my dad went ahead and put the subframe under it. Motor needs to go back in to position the bar that is replacing the old cab/running board mount crossmember.
Things are starting to come together. The rear end is under it and the wheels showed up this week (16x7 Gennie). They will be painted white with silver caps to replicate the factory 55 trim colors. My Dad finished up replacing seals, pumps, and oil pan on the motor. The subframe is now back together so all that went back on the chassis. He also finished covering the seat and built the doors. Next up is brakes, fuel, steering, and then exhaust.
The green tinted glass was a very good choice. Few people know that it was very popular when windows were first tinted. I have it in my 55 F100 and those that know, comment on the color.
The Jalopy Journal
