Which oil pan gasket for my SBC engine???

I am looking to purchase a new one piece oil pan gasket for my SBC engine following the comments received from an earlier thread.

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=769385


I see they are sold for various years of manufacture.
I am unsure of the age of my engine block to know what year it might be!

What are the determining factors in accessing which gasket works for my block?

Is it just the dipstick position or is there more that I am missing.

 

Should just be the dipstick location. Passenger or drivers side.

 

Issues...thickness of front seal is based on oil pan, there is thick and thin for that area; dipstick occurs on both sides, with some blocks having kickout for both, and of course everything changes again in about '86 for late seal...
If engine is basically stock and is the 2 piece seal flavor, dipstick moved in about 1980, with the Goodwrench blocks accommodating both sides. Front seal is age-related but many more recent aftermarket pans need early seal, the thick one. If you need thick seal, there is an actual gap between front cover and pan, if you need thin gap there is nearly entirely concealed by the tin.

 

So, it is soundintg like I will need to research engine numbers to be entirely sure.
Anybody got a good link for engine numbers so I can check that way.

I have 2 SBC engines that I plan to get gaskets for, the 1st is a a known 1958 283 and the other is a 350 but that is all I have other than the dipstick is on the passengers side.

The 350 has a good seal up front with no signs of leaking oil, but the rear is still dripping after re-tightening the pan bolts recently.

I am mostly a Ford/Cadillac engine guy so the SBC stuff is not my special topic.

 

and is it a one piece rear main or old style...? love those felpro 1 pc gaskets

 

I am guessing here but think it is a one piece...

I got the engine number from the block.
It has a double row of numbers stamped on it.

First row in larger digits is V0716TBK

Second row is smaller and reads CCS103084

I'd be interested to know if these number will help ID my block age etc.

 

one piece rear has aluminum rear seal housing on back of block...think its 87 up

 

Then NO, since no aluminum stuff/parts out back.

 

The numbers you need are cast into the block on the back right above where the trans would bolt on! The numbers you have are like a VIN no.

 

OK, that will take a little extra work to locate, but I'll be back with the info for tomorrow.

Thanks so far for all the help you guys have offered.

 

good luck...... 3 pans 4 gaskets still leaking......pissed

 

I hear you, I just hate oil leaks on my driveway.

 

1 pc. blue silicone is the ONLY way to go. They are the only ones for SBC's that actually work. You're pissing in the wind with anything else. I've used them on the newr style and older style blocks and they work fine on both.

 

Yes, seems that is the concensus on here, just trying to work out which one I need to order for my block.
Still trying to determine its age/year.

 

I run this: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fel-os34510t/overview/make/chevrolet

Works with dipstick on either side.

 

This might help also

http://chevellestuff.net/qd/engine_stamp_numbers.htm

http://www.nastyz28.com/chevy-engine-code-stampings.php

 

I have a blue silicone for my '58, 283, provisions for dipstick on both sides. The only option I had was Small block or Big block. My part # is FP 34510.

 

Just in case you don't know, after you clean the oil pan and gasket surface take a hammer and dolly and gently remove any distortions caused by previous owners overtightening the pan bolts. Make sure the sealing surface is flat and the new Fel-Pro gasket will have small steel sleeves in the gasket so you can't crush it. Put a dab of silicone sealant at the corners. I have used the same gasket several times after pulling the pan and even though they cost more than the cork stuff it will be cheaper in the long run.

 

If you find out you need the one piece felpro gasket with the thick seal I have one that is unused still in the box that I will sell cheap.

 

That's a good one!

 

FEL-PRO gaskets used with the GREY "Right Stuff"...it will never leak!!!

 

Ha ha, on my last car I spared no expense and got the best gaskets money could buy - never could stop the leaks. On my next SBC I bought the cheapest gaskets available and - you guessed it - no leaks whatsoever.

 

Also watch the torque on the pan bolts, silicon gaskets don't like to be overtightened.

 

Here are the options.
<TABLE border=1 width="100%"><TBODY><TR><TD>

TBK​

</TD><TD>1971</TD><TD>350</TD><TD>turbohydro</TD><TD></TD><TD>250</TD><TD></TD><TD>trucks</TD></TR><TR><TD>

TBK​

</TD><TD>1979</TD><TD>350</TD><TD>conv., van, bus</TD><TD></TD><TD></TD><TD></TD><TD>C-20 to 3500</TD></TR><TR><TD>

TBK​

</TD><TD>1982</TD><TD>305</TD><TD>conv., van, bus</TD><TD></TD><TD></TD><TD></TD><TD>C-10 to 2500</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
Here is what i found for your suffix code. If it has a R/H dipper, i'm thinkin 82' 305ci, i guess it could be a 79' 350 ci. If you give me the number bihind the L/H head, i can tell more. I have an 80-85 R/H dip, it says 5.0L behind L/H head. The casting number is a little closer to the center of the bell housing flange on this engine. Its like a 1400201 or somethg like that. Older engines are like 3900010 ect.

 

Thanks for your information, I am hoping to get a look at the rear of my engine later this afternoon and I'll post what I can find then.
So much for being told it came out of a Camaro then...

 

If i turns out to be a 1982 305 ci. Do not scrap it. If its a truck motor for up to 3/4 ton, it has the smallest chamber, steel production head, made for modern time. The intake and exhaust runners are the same as a double hump. The last 3 of head casting number will be 601. Bolt them on a dish top 350ci and BAM! 10:1 COMP.

 

Well I tried checking for the rear block number and no luck for now as it is difficult to see.

I will make a greater effort over the weekend to see what numbers I can come up with.

Stay tuned...

 

What good is that with valves that are smaller that the double hump? Compression additions dont mean crap, if you cant move the air out. The 305 heads also have trouble with cracking.

 

Well, I have checked both my engines.

• Firstly the 283 out of a car was easy and large numbers to read - 3756519 which equates to a 1958/62 years.

• The 350 in my pickup was a whole different story as the engine is set back and the booster/master cylinder stuff is a problem as was the side lip and hinge on the hood. I am a bit too big of a guy to squeeze so far back up against the firewall with the hood still fitted.
  

Just to top things off the number size is small and difficult to read. ​

I got what I thought were the numbers being -160102901, however when checked against the casing number list I have they do not equate to anything.

So I kinder looked down the list a little closer and decided that the nearest set of numbers to what I had was 14010209 which equates to a 350 engine manufactured 1980/85 which sounds plausible.

If anybody can confirm that the dipstick during those years was on the passengers side then I guess I maybe close.​

Last concern if it is a concern at all is whether there is a choice and thick or thin end seals and the years SKIDRO69 mentioned earlier that relate to my serial number TBK portion???
Does anybody know please???

 

Just reviewing that casing number list again and I note in a different column they say the engines for that number have 4 bolt mains.
In my case the engine I have does not have 4 bolt mains, this I do know.

I guess back to square one and find a midget or a grandchild to get back in the engine bay to get a better look at those numbers.

Preferably one that can read...