700r4

Getting back to the original question, the Fat Fendered Street Rod shop makes a bolt in kit to suit a 700R. Passenger X-member rail requires modification to suit case/pan. Article was featured in Street Rodder Chassis & suspension handbook. The OEM centre section was removed and replaced with their unit. Very simple installation.
700 R 4 TRANNY MOUNT
#15074...1941 - 1948 FORD CAR WITH RIVETED X-MEMBER
#15075...1941 - 1948 FORD CAR WITH WELDED X-MEMBER

 

Okay fine...How much weight ?, torque? ET's ? 60ft ?

 

on my 47, we removed the whole(previous owner hacked) x rail to rail. then we boxed the walls and put in a new universal cross member that cnnects 6 points. I went with a 350, now a 200-4r but there is plenty of room for a 700 if I wanted. the crossmember kit was like $250.

 

If I do nothing but bolt it in what's the worst that would happen,it wouldn't lock up?

 

don't know what "they" are but a 700R4 never used a computer.

 

"They" meaning the 700R4's in this thread.

 

Five years ago, I installed a 200R4 trans Level II ($1395) with a 2200 stall HD converter($175) built and sold by Bowtie Overdrives. I beat the hell out of it with a 350 sbc/300 hp. The Level II is built to handle 450-500 hp with 400-450 ft lbs tq. Check their website out. They also sell 700R4's.

 

Ya all that lip movement and the poor bastard didn't get an answer!
Jay

 

Running unlocked in 4th will cause it to run hotter. What the end result of that is, is hard to say. Heat is the enemy of an automatic transmission. Wiring the lockup circuit is pretty easy. Why not just hook it up?

 

Waddayacare's posting of the different transmission dimensions, the OP should be able to determine how much needs to be modified. The 200R4 posters, made comments in the event the OP may want to consider another tranny that is shorter and requires less cutting. The reason I installed a 200R4...going from a TH350 to a 200R4 didn't require cutting the drive shaft. In addition the gear spacing is closer.

 

I just don't wanna spend $150 for a kit.

 

You can lock it up with a simple manually controlled toggle switch if you want.
Good one goes for $3.00 of less.

 

Do a search here ..I gave a run down on this deal a few months back.

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=721125&highlight=lock+up+converter+wiring

You shouldn't have to spend more than about $10 for some wire and a switch.

 

Even if there were not a much cheaper way of doing that, $150 is cheaper than a rebuild.

 

All true . If you have any shearing of the fluid in the converter, you will generate heat.
That's not to say that you will burn up an O/D trans if the lock up is not hooked up.
There are many other factors...Weight, torque, gear ratio, where you live and drive, type and stall speed of converter.
I will say that you are better off with a tight 9" converter , than with a loose 12" with the same stall speed.

 

I know that talking MPG here us heresy for some, but locking the converter in top gear removes the systemic loss inherent in the converter, giving you a true direct coupling. So long as all other factor are sound (gearing, tire size, etc.), locking the converter will increase your highway MPG.

 

Sounds good to me!

 

OK can somebody please "splain" to me how you hook up a toggle swith to make it go into overdrive? I like that idea a lot....

 

There are a few simple connections that need to be made. There is a 2-wire solenoid that controls lockup, at the front pan rail. There is a pressure switch on the 4th gear section (sometimes 3rd. too, but you can ignore that one).

In the case of a two connection pressure switch, 12-volts goes through the switch and on to the positive wire (can be several colors, just not black) on the solenoid. The back wire on the solenoid goes to ground in that case.

If the pressure switch has just one connection, then it is a ground switch. In that case 12-volts gets supplied to the solenoid, and the ground wire gets attached to the switch.

The 12-volt supply comes from the fuse panel, on with the ignition. You can install an override switch, if you desire.

This setup will allow the convertor to lock up only when the transmission is in 4th gear. I do not recommend that you connect the solenoid with a switch alone, allowing the converter to be locked up anytime. If you forget to turn it off, or your switch breaks, the converter will not unlock. You could be left standing on the brakes while you grab the key and shut it down. You could be in the middle of an intersection, in a millisecond.

The pressure switch is already in there, so is the solenoid, all you need to is connect them.

The kits available can have a brake light switch, to unlock the converter when the brakes are on, and a vacuum switch to lock and unlock the converter when the vacuum signal changes, unlocking when you stop on the throttle, like a mini-downshift.

Both are nice, but not necessary.

 

The toggle switch is to control the electric circuit which controls the lockup of the torque converter. The overdrive is a 4th gear, and mechanically controlled by the valve body, governor and TV cable, etc.

 

I have a 200 4r in my 60 Vette with a TPI 305, none of which has anything to do with the question at hand except the extreme rearward position of the tranny mound might be an issue not mentioned so far. So i would be tempted to go with the 700 for that reason.

 

That is more an optical illusion than a significant difference. The 2004R case is shorter than the 700R4 case, so even though the mount is REALTIVELY farther back, the difference in position is very little. The 200 still has the advantage in tight quarters, especially when comparing not only the bulkier case, but the larger pan.

Ray

 

On the outside there is a 4 hole plug, what's it go to? there is also a cable, kickdown?

 

The plug is for the wiring which controls the torque converter lockup.

As for the cable, repeat after me:

THIS IS NOT A KICKDOWN CABLE, IT IS THE THROTTLE VALVE CABLE (TV CABLE).

If you do not hook it up properly, to a bellcrank with the proper geometry, and adjust it properly, your transmission will likely not survive to the first stop sign, if you even get out of the driveway!

The board is chock-a-block with info, which is just a search away.

 

You can also wire them to lock up as soon as the 4th gear pressure switch is active by sending power from the switch to a 2 wire solonoid. $2 if your trans has the solonoid, $20 if you have to buy one. The TCI kit with the vacuum switch and pre wired harness is a simple, effective kit for around $80 that is very street friendly adding the vacuum switch makes it a softer lock/unlock. It seems complicated until you do it one (takes 30 min first time) now I can wire one in 10 min.

Using a new tv cable and adjustiing it properly will keep it from burning up.

 

Anyone have more info on the TV cable?

 

Can't help with the 46 side of things, but take a read of this thread you may find something posted that could help.

Plus here is a pick of my T700R4 installed in my f100 pickup.
The trick is to leave enough room to get your speedo cable in easily. I offset my crossmember to account for the cable, so if it looks a little funny that is the reason. It was designed for easy in and out removal of tranny if ever required.

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=659269

 

Here's a start:

http://www.tvmadeez.com/article/index.php

 

700r4 = not traditional

 

Yeah, whatever, Grenade Inspector.