8.8 rear end

Hi guys,
I'm taking a bodywork break and moving to the rear end. I bought a 8.8 rear end out of an Exploder to put under the '39 chevy because it's not in the budget to narrow and modify the 9" it came with yet. My questions are
1) The input shaft is about 2" off center. Is this going to put two much side angle in the u-joints?
2) After cutting 1 spring perch off, moving it out 1 5/8" and welding it back on I noticed the pinion angle is at 10 to 12 degrees up. This looks like way too much to me. I'm thinking I need to cut the perches off and drop the angle down to around 0 to 2 degrees up. What do you think?

Thanks
Paul

 

I had an 8.8 in my off topic drag car. it like -4 degrees. but that was to keep the front end on the ground when I launched. I would shoot for -2 to 0..... It will raise when accelorating.

 

Whatever degree your engine is pointing downward, point the pinion UP the same amount. This will put the joints in phase. Nobody can tell you what that is,you must measure it. The side offset is fine.

 

It's real easy to just slip in a wedge ? why cut it apart ? As to the offset pinion, it will run just fine. A easy trick is to buy a extra short axle and cut one tube and weld the end back on at the right length to put the pinion on center and also narrow the rear a couple inches in the process.

 

I don't want to use a 10 degree wedge.

 

I've got one set up for my 40. I did use a pass. side axle and center the pinion---but, a lot of guys i know didn't do it and have no problem. Main thing is to weld the press in sections of the housing to the case--IF you ever intend to use it hard. A driver-no problem with the stock setup.
Better get that pinion angle set up right, phased driveshaft, or you'll be miserable.
"They" say about 2-4 degrees.
cooger

 

got one in this. eddie baur edition,factory 4.10 posi. narrowed on one side.

 

The side angle of the pinion is NO DIFFERENT than the up/ down angle as far as the U- joint is concerned. Angle is angle, so long as the centerline of the engine/ trans and pinion are parallel...that is the key.

Ray

 

Match your pinion "up" angle to your transmission output shaft "down angle" +3º and -3º is pretty common. I would not go much past 4º.

 

I've used the 8.8 on several builds w/o problems.

 

Curious if you guys are leaving the ABS sensor in place or replacing it with some type of plug?

 

I run 5 degrees (fuel injected so no carb level issues) and have no issues, engine is 5 degrees down, pinion is 5 degrees up at ride height. I dont think the angle matters as long as the working angle is less than 3 degrees. Runs nice and smooth at 70+MPH.

Side to side will not matter as long as the rear is square in the chassis and the engine is straight in the chassis so the tail and pinion are in the same line.

I dont know what rear suspension you are running in the 39 but if you have leaf springs the pinion angle will change as the suspension is compressed. Set your final angle with the car at ride height, I had a 2 degree difference on my cad between the unloaded and loaded rear suspension. You need to know your engine angle so you can set the pinion.

 

Sometimes i will block a car in place on a lift and use a couple cable comealongs to pull the car back to pre-load the suspension when checking pinion angle. You will not be able to completely simulate a clutch dump, but it will get your pinion angle much closer without too much experimentation.

 

Running a stock 3.73 LS 8.8" in my present Falcon gasser project, without changing the offset center. It seems to be just fine with the offset driveline behind my 464 BBC engine.

 

I plug the abs hole with an a steel freeze plug and cut off those ugly cast-in "guards" that stick up on the front...

 

I just left my ABS sensor in there. It is now the fill plug.

 

Thanks for the info! I'm planning on running a mild 383 stroker. I want the car to be dependable when i take the better half out.

Paul

 

My ABS sensor is brazed shut.


Dustin