my old aluminum rad was leaking so i decided to replace it with a new one with dual fans and get rid of the old oil drum looking shroud i had. always used to run 184 to 190 . now with the a/c on at 75-80 mph it was up to 216 is that to hot? i am concerned to the fact it was around 75 today not even close to the 95+ temps of the summer. nothing else as changed but the rad and add the 2 electric fans and dump the mechinical fan
You created an airflow problem Or your new rad is not transferring heat. Bet you a weiand swing arm blower drive that you created an airflow problem. Just to check, take the Efans off, put the mechanical fan on and the shroud , go drive it.
At 75-80 mph in reverse the vortec created around the car inhibbits the proper flow of cool air through the radiator. I personally would turn the car around and go forward! Just say'in!!!!!!!!!!!!!
there is a race track we go to that runs a night of crazy races, one of which is the backwards races after ten laps all the cars are over heated.
Make sure your lower hose has a spring in it so that it does not collapse at high water flow. You probably know that but some people don't.
Yeah, at that speed, even if the fans are on, they can't keep up with the amount of air that's wanting (needing) to flow through the rad. And if they aren't on, they really inhibit airflow...especially two of 'em.
does your new rad have as many cores as your old one i like mech fans better myself did you by some good electric fans or 50 cent junk
> >Happened to mine. Over 65mph.. I had the hood up checking things out ,I rev it up and saw the lower hose collapes.
Sometimes the electric fan blades restrict the air passing through shroud at hiway speed and need to have a flap in the shroud that will open to allow more air to pass through.(more air going in than can escape= pressure)
some aftermarket fan manufacturers provide flaps in the e-fan shrouds. Some OEM too. http://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0164/0230/products/c5_corvette_fan_kit_upgrade_sp15_grande.jpeg?552
Yep, what he said .... I have one small electric pusher that keeps mine cool under 25 mph -- over that speed I can turn the fan off and the natural airflow keeps it cool...
I prefer the Camaro's clutch mechanical fan from the 60's. It disengages at a certain rpm, and less chance of losing a belt and is less parasitic.
Cooling checklist- Waterpump - Cavitation from air in system or eroded impeller or pump body? - slipping belt? Can you turn it by hand witout other parts turning? - (SBC) did you install a reverse rotation pump in place of standard, or without serpentine drive, causing it to turn the wrong way? Hoses - collapsed/collapsing on intake side of pump? - bypass hose or heater hoses routed against waterpump flow? - blocked by scale or debris gathering in turns or low spots? Core/Core support - adequate size? (area) - Too thick? (installed a 4 row where you had 1 or 2 row, air can't get through) - Too thin? (intalled a 1 row where you had 4, water can't pass) - Open gaps around core, over core support, allowing air to bypass core (high speed issue) - Grille obstruction? (custom grille, cold weather cover, trash or debris) Thermostat - None or Stuck open(water can't shed enough heat as it passes through core) - Stuck closed (water can't circulate) - Too low temp (160* with a pressurized system, behaves as none or stuck open) - Too high temp (190* or higher with unpressurized system, overheats before circulation; behaves as stuck partialy closed) Radiator cap - low or no pressure on modern system (boil-over even when not overheated) - too high (pop hoses and seams on older non-pressurized systems) Fan - correct rotation - fan clutch working properly (should have resistance) - electric operating at right temps (sensors, relays, motors)
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