Hello hambers. I have a 53 bel air with a frozen 235 and powerglide. It has 41,000 miles on the clock and has been sitting since 83-84. I did the usual wd-40 in the cylinders, probably a half cup per cylinder. that sat for about 3 weeks. I also used auto trans fluid about 2 weeks ago because it was on the shelf lol. I pulled the valve cover and it was minor rust, mostly a thin black coat of dried sludge on everything. I slowly opened the valves with some leverage on the rockers. seemed to move ok. I have no idea about the lifters.. Anyway, I can't seem to break the engine free, I removed the radiator, belts (it has power steering) and fan. I threaded two bolts into the holes in the crank pulley and put a strong arm on it and it wont budge, the bolts bent when I put some leverage on it (grade 5 bolts). Then I jacked it up and removed the flywheel cover but maybe because its an auto it seems like the flywheel teeth are out of reach. Is there any other tricks or is it just pull the head and dig in?? Also I read in the manual that you can put it in low gear and bump start it with a powerglide. The problem is that the car rolls freely in every gear including park. when I got underneath what looks like the drain plug for the trans is missing. I'm ASSuming maybe some trans issues thirty years ago? lol.. Is there universal joints inside the torque tube? The shift linkage is connected and seems to move in all positions properly so im thinking somethings broken somewhere. Im not afraid to throw another drivetrain in it, I was gonna junk the torque tube/powerglide down the road but I wanted to keep the 235 if possible. Sorry for the novel, thanks in advance for any help!! belairbomber
You might try, diesel fuel or some acetone mixed with tranny fluid. Give it some time and you might break it loose with the starter, just bump it occasionally and only once or twice a day. On mine there was a bolt in the end of the crank that I put a socket and a breaker bar with a cheater pipe on and helped it along. Sitting that long you might need to pull the head and put in a set of rings also. That is the first of the full pressure 235s, you can wake them up with a cam from Patricks and a dual carb and exhaust. Get the trans checked out and cruise it. Lets see some pics. Yes the is a universal joint inside the collar at trans. You have to loosen collar and slide it back. At least you have the manual, that will get you pretty far along. Again, pictures of your ride. We all like to look at other peoples projects.
you have great advice here one thing i can add is let the oil mix work give it some time!!!! we are talking a month!!!! check out that trans plug, that 1/2" pipe thread hole goes no where????? check your dip stick. maybe add trans fluid, see if it runs out i know a guy that had one hole stuck(piston), he tried every thing,nothing worked. he put a grease zerk in a drilled out spark plug and filled the cylinder with grease, the grease gun has enofe preasure to free the rusted cylinder
Im pretty sure the powerglide has a rear pump. If it does, that would be what I'd be using to crack that thing free. If you can get it to hold fluid, shift all the way to low and have someone give you a pull. If its going to break free, it will do so then. Sent from my DROID device using the TJJ mobile app
Thanks everyone for the fast replies! You guys have helped alot already!! So it was pretty warm out today (35*) and I knocked around with the car for a few hours. I had some Coleman lantern fuel on the shelf. You guessed it. I filled the cylinders up and devised a better bolt system with a strong arm for the crank pulley. I tried to break it free again and she's stuck tight. I decided to grab the 60,000 btu torpedo heater and aim it at the block for a bit. got it heated pretty good with no lantern fuel fires (lol)and still nothing. I cycled it through hot and cold most of the day, maybe 5 times. gonna let it sit overnight and try again tomorrow when I wake up. the drain plug isnt missing on the trans, I'm not sure what I was thinking when I typed that.. its topped off pretty good for sitting for so long and the oil looked great before I put the kamikaze concoction in! I didnt have the nerve to lay on the cold ground and mess with the torque tube to check the universal joint/knuckle whatever it is.. fnla39 the starter does nothing, i tried 6v right to the starter and it makes no noise at all so thats a no go for now. I did read that it is the first year for the full pressure setup, gonna check out the parts you mentioned for it.. and i added a bunch of pics so you can see what Im working with! lol chubbie Its been sitting over a month now with the cylinders oiled up but Im patient, theres still a few months til warm weather! I'm not sure what you mean about the pipe thread hole going nowhere, kind of lost on what you mean. Is that a pneumatic grease gun you're talking about? drh The trans is full, if I can get it to bite in low it would be ideal! Pissin up a rain pipe for now lol Thanks again everyone, I'm diggin this board alot!!
You have done about everything you can. Time to take the head off and see what's going on inside the motor. If they won't come free with a reasonable effort, don't force or smash anything. With luck you may only need to free up a stuck piston or 2 and replace the head gasket. On the other hand it may be time for a rebuild or replacement engine.
I have had a 235 3 speed, 235 t5 5-speed, 305/sag 4 speed and a 350/700r4. 235 t5 was the most fun, got over 20mpg and got lots of compliments.
You'll have less time in fixing the 6 than putting in a small block. Plus like the man said, good gas mileage and no end of compliments. I have a 235, dual carb, split headers in my 52 truck. Once I tell people what I'm running they insist I raise the hood. The sound is distinctive also. Pull the head, oil pan and start with 1 piston. Take the rod cap off and see if you can move the piston, remember to mark the orientation of the cap when you put it back on. If not use a piece of hardwood and tap, that's TAP up on the bottom of the piston. Don't force anything, you'll make more problems and that equals more work and headaches. More than likely you've got 1 or 2 pistons hanging things up. Once you get that straight baring no major problems throw a set of rings in it, some new gaskets, you'll need those anyway, because the old ones have probably dried up and will leak like a sieve. Then drive that dude. If you a bent on changing the drive line start gathering parts and don't tear it down till you have everything ready and waiting. Hope this helps
You'll have less time in fixing the 6 than putting in a small block. Plus like the man said, good gas mileage and no end of compliments. I have a 235, dual carb, split headers in my 52 truck. Once I tell people what I'm running they insist I raise the hood. The sound is distinctive also. Pull the head, oil pan and start with 1 piston. Take the rod cap off and see if you can move the piston, remember to mark the orientation of the cap when you put it back on. If not use a piece of hardwood and tap, that's TAP up on the bottom of the piston. Don't force anything, you'll make more problems and that equals more work and headaches. More than likely you've got 1 or 2 pistons hanging things up. Once you get that straight baring no major problems throw a set of rings in it, some new gaskets, you'll need those anyway, because the old ones have probably dried up and will leak like a sieve. Then drive that dude. If you a bent on changing the drive line start gathering parts and don't tear it down till you have everything ready and waiting. Hope this helps
I kicked around the V8 thing for a minute and no offense to anyone rockin one out I love V8's!! My deal is I've been messing with straight 6's for about the last 26 years (79 jeep cj7) and I have that same engine in a different jeep that I rebuilt once about 10 years ago and it still runs like a champ. When I saw the 235 it made the gears turn in my head like it was familiar territory. As long as the 235 is salvageable Im gonna run the piss out of it. fnla thats my plan for this weekend to pull the head etc... I'll keep you guys posted. Thanks everyone for helping me resurrect this old girl!!
You can pretty much pick up a running 235 almost anywhere for practically nothing. Nobody wants them after they pull them to put in a V8. Those cast iron wonders sit around the shop getting in everybody's way or they go to the scrap yard. Look araound and don't pay more than a couple hundred bucks for one. Seriously. I got mine for free complete from radiator fan to tailshaft of the trans. Andy
Try pickling the 235 before tearing it apart. I used Marvel Mystery Oil, ifilled the crank case, covered the lifters, filled the cylinders. After 1 week of letting the engine sit (parked since '74), the engine turned over with ease. Dave
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