I am currently workin on a 1953 buick special 2 door post the car is in decent shape with some rust not to bad the frame has some bad spots. I was thinking of just clipping it with front steer camaro sub I can get cheap like 100.00 but I can also get a later model cutlass for 600.00 that runs and drives. I don't know how much time and fab work would be to use the full frame I know the frame would need to be stretched to fit. I am trying to build it on a budget and not a hack job any info would be appreciated
If it where mine I use the Cutlass frontclip and rear axle with the stock Buick frame. Maybe you can use the Cutlass K-link too. Good luck whatever you choose!
What year is the proposed Cutlass donor, are you plan on using the drive train as well? If so, you have it all right there. Measure up the track width, frame width before jumping into it. Its also a ton of fab work, so be prepared. Bob
The 52 Buick I had was sitting on a modified Regal frame. Worked out well. Posted from the TJJ App for iPhone & iPad
The cutlass I can get is a 1984 I would say the frame is the same as Buick regal and monte Carlo I have not measured the track width yet. Would putting the camaro front steer be easier than frame swap I know I would have to stretch the frame and make body mount brackets and I'm sure I would have to make a new core support and modify the bumper braces. So would that be the fab work your talking about I'm new to the frame swap on these old cars I know it's gonna be a lot of work but just looking for opinions from people that has done them.
Maybe you could find another frame from a 53 Buick or similar GM car from that era (provided the frames are the same) and just swap them out. Stubbing a car requires alot of fab work regardless of which one you use.
Take a look at the Caprice police car for a donor frame/suspension. I know a fella who was using one for a 56 Buick wagon. I believe Padorey on here (deceased now) used a donor GM for his Buick.
After looking at all the options on here I think a mustang ii set up will look cleanest not the cheapest. I think a good after market kit will be strong enough if I support it I just want the frame to look clean and low I will now just get the body work done and primer and save for the front suspension I will do that this spring.
If you're willing to drive to eastern Ontario, I have a chassis all ready rolling with a late model cutlass clip,rear end and a big block olds in it.. Was from an old forgotten project a hundred years ago...$500 for the chassis.
I read of using a AMC Pacer subframe on PUs ,,, sorry don t have the thread . Bill aka TnomoldwWhy a Pacer? The AMC Pacer was built between 1975 and 1980. The Pacer came with either 4, 6 or V8 engines. It has become somewhat of a laughing-stock car these days, an icon of the '70s, a typical "Nerd Car" as featured in Wayne's World. True, the Pacer was somewhat ahead of its time styling wise (but compare it to the latest Subaru Outback). About the time Pacers started appearing junkyards, somebody did some measuring and discovered that A) the track of the Pacer was almost identical to a '47 - 54 GM truck, and B) the bolt-in front IFS crossmember could easily be adapted to the truck frame. Converting an AD (Advance Design) GM truck to a modern IFS has numerous advantages for those owners not concerned with maintaining originality. The factory beam axle, leaf spring front suspension is a rugged but antiquated design, and when well worn, can be very uncomfortable, unsafe, and near uncivilised to drive. In addition, parts to rebuild the original suspension, brakes and steering, while readily available, are far from cheap. Many owners elect to replace the entire front end with a suspension of modern design, and gain the advantages of disk brakes, smoother ride, and better steering all in one conversion. There are several possibilitys... Here is the addy http://www.chevytrucks.org/tech/ifs.htm it also discusses using Mustang parts.
Actually I'd normally be one of the first to say don't clip that thing, but the Cutlass you have would be a perfect donor for this deal. The hub to hub on the A and G body GM products was right at 58", which kills the number one reason NOT to sub - the Camaro sub's 62" width. The suspension and steering geometry is much nicer on the Cutlass the the older Camaro design too. The rear end and small block would fit as well. Years ago when I was helping out at Elpolacko's here in town, we had a '53 Pontiac roll in needing a front suspension system. After tons of study and measuring, that's what we ended up putting under it. It worked a extremely well!
All the GM mid size cars have the same problem. The upper control arms go down hill to the outside causing the tire to lean the wrong way in a corner causing under steer and lack of traction. The steering box usually ends up in the core support making for a lot of fab and radiator fit problems. I would go with a Mustang 2 front, I have installed a few from Fat Man Fabrications and am pleased with the fit and quality. Their stub frame is set up for the car it is going into so the stock core support fits and only a bit of trimming on the inner fenders is required. In the end it could mean the difference between getting your car on the road an having it partly done for years because of the job of a frame swap or a clip job gone wrong. Hope this helps Jim
Rather than optimum cornering, the geometry of the front suspension on GM cars of that era was geared more toward minimizing tire scrub, which was a valid concern with the tires of the time. However, it doesn't completely suck, and the hardware was pretty durable. Point being, maybe you don't really need to change the front suspension? Per what "55willys" posted, the real issue is the angle of ther upper arm. If the inner pivot of the upper arm is lowered so the inner and outer pivots are level with the suspension at curb height, or the inner is slightly lower than the outer, it fixes the camber problem an will improve cornering.
i also have a 53 buick. clipped it with a 79 camaro. yes, there was a quite a bit of gussets to fab up but, it sat in the frame wells quite nicely. 2 inch drop spindles and cut the springs. the back i used 3 inch blocks
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