I bought this cutting attachment new about 30 years ago and never had a problem with it, Its a Airco number 4790 My oxygen regulator is set at 45 I open the acetylene valve and light it, everything works right I open the oxy valve and adjust the flame, everything works right I open the secondary oxy valve and only get a small difference, certainly not enough to cut anything. I took both valves out off the torch and compressed air blows thru freely so the torch is not stopped up.. All the pieces of the valves look good. I took the flashback arrestor out, didnt help. What needs to be repaired to get this torch working? Thanks
I had a problem similar to that and it turned out to be the oxygen regulator. Even though it showed the correct pressure it couldn't supply the volume needed for the cutting head. I install a new regulator and was good to go.Mine was a Craftsman about 40 years old.
On my setup like that, the O2 valve on the base of the torch body is ALL THE WAY OPEN, and the one above where your hands hold the torch(secondary) , is used to adjust the flame for nutural...see if that works..Shawn
x2 Shawnspeed. The lever handle opens the secondary valve 100% to blow the molten metal away to make a cut.
Put the flash arrester back on so you don't blow the hose. Close the oxygen valve on the attachment. Open the oxygen valve next to the acetylene valve all the way. No oxygen should come out of the tip unless you squeeze the cutting handle. Use the acetylene valve and the valve on the cutting attachment to light and adjust the pre heat flame.
Thanks shawn. You fellas kinda got me worried. Been using this torch for 30 years and forgot how to operate it? Scary. Might happen. I've been threatening to get a name tag and sew it on my shirt pocket.......upside down so I can flip it up and read it. I guess Airco does it different. On this one you open the Acetylene valve to the desired heat, then open the oxy valve next to it and adjust to a neutral flame. If I continue to open the oxy valve, it blows out the flame. Yeah, I tried it just to see what happens but thats not a standard practice. After that you hold down the cutting lever and open the oxy valve up by the cutting head until you have a neutral flame there. You can really hear the oxy when you open the cutting valve. I am getting no additional roar of oxy when I press the cutting lever and there should be. When I read themooses response I thought, but but but the regulator and gauges are only a couple of months old! Then I thought well theres your problem, they are probably chinese junk. I held the lever down and turned the regulator way up, really way up and no results. I need to do some cutting and dont mind buying parts but dont know what to buy. I suspect the flashback arrestor. I am using Western Enterprises arrestors. I dont know if they are chinese but they are not cheap
I have an Airco torch. Every torch that can be converted for either cutting or welding has to be the same. You need the oxygen valve on the handle next to the acetylene valve wide open to supply full oxygen regulator pressure for cutting. If you set the pre heat flame with it, there is no way for more oxygen than that to get into the attachment. You use the oxygen valve on the cutting attachment to set the pre heat flame. Try it my way. When it works, you might want to go with the nametag.
Agree with the above, first step, all valves closed, open bottom oxy valve all the way, now crack the acetylene valve enough to light it off, now go to the top oxy valve and adjust your neutral flame for heating, should be ready to cut. I never seen a cutting rig made any other way.
one of my victor torches is a old one and it doesn't even have a oxygen valve down by the acet one. it just have the one up by the cutting lever. it is not designed to be used for welding, just cutting and soesn't have a removable cutting head. if you are just cutting the oxygen valve down by acet serves no purpose, just needs to be kept open. the only oxygen adjustment is the one by lever. don't worry, i need a name tag too.
Sounds to me like you are using WAAAAAAAAAYYYYYYY to much oxygen. Turn the oxygen down to maybe 7 to 10 psi. You will only need maybe 3 to 5 on the acetylene. Acetylene first light with striker, never never light a torch with a lighter. Add oxygen until you have a neutral flame. The valve for the cutting oxygen should be opened up most or all the way and you should be good unless you have something in the cutting tip. Rod
This is funny. People think you forgot how to use it. I had a similar problem. I replaced the tip, cleaned it all out and it still went out every time. It ended up being the little rubber o-ring that went bad in the torch. I run my torch at 5 and 7.
I was taught NEVER over 10 acet,. Usually 7, 4 times that for oxy.Is the tip real clean.I have a habit of not keeping mine perfect and my brother[who taught welding] really chews me if he tries to use it. Jack
I don't know about forgetting- but the process you are describing is not correct for the cutting torch you pictured or any cutting torch for that matter. Step by step. Proper check valves and all hoses secure bottles etcetera. Bottles off. Install cutting head. Close cutting head ox valve. Open bottles - ace @ 5 ox @ 20-40 depending on what you'll be cutting. Open torch body ox valve all the way. Check for leaks. Check operation. Tap handle - should have cutting oxygen.high flow Crack cutting head valve- should be able to control flame support oxygen. Low flow Prepare to light. Crack open cutting head valve. Crack open acetylene valve Use striker. Adjust flame. Tap cutting lever and be sure flame stays on. Cut as desired. If anything checks wrong, you have a problem with the torch. If this sounds incorrect, put the torch down. Prepair to light.
I run my oxy at the bottom at full tilt, adjust the oxy when ive got my acy burning by the valve on the cutting attachment... I have a 40 yr old torch and dont know the make... In laymans terms... if you adjust the bottom valve by the hose to regulate the oxy flow to the torch when you press the lever there is NO more pressure to blow through the steel...