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Customs Going to chop my shoebox in a few weeks. Any advice before I start?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by TMoney, Jan 20, 2013.

  1. TMoney
    Joined: Dec 27, 2006
    Posts: 804

    TMoney
    Member

    Hey guys, just wondering if there are any typical problem areas when chopping a shoebox. I have a nice 51 2 door sedan and I'm going to cut it up. :/

    Thinking I'm going to cut it 3" up front and 4" in the back. Any helpful hints?


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  2. rat nasty
    Joined: Jul 22, 2007
    Posts: 702

    rat nasty
    Member

    Read up! Research all the ones from this site and ask for any experienced help from around you and who knows you might end up with a few new buddies! I have! Wish I knew more bout a kustom shoebox...Good luck man!
     
  3. wayfarer
    Joined: Oct 17, 2003
    Posts: 1,790

    wayfarer
    Member

    Bob Bleed chopped one on Mad Fabricators vol. 3, if you want to watch someone do the entire chop. I have a copy if you need to borrow it.
     
  4. BRENT
    Joined: Jun 22, 2005
    Posts: 252

    BRENT
    Member

    Take your time, lay it all out with making tape, use cut-off wheels. Oh yeah if I could do it over again I would cut-out all the window radius pre-chop and weld them back in once lowered. I had to re-make mine from scratch pie-cutting little sections together to get the correct radius, took like a week per side. If I did one again I would definetly do that. I chopped mine 5.5 in front and about 8 in the back and slightly de-crowned. I slanted my B-pillar as well, lots of work but worth it in my oppion.

    Brent
     

  5. Rod Ari
    Joined: Dec 10, 2005
    Posts: 68

    Rod Ari
    Member
    from Finland

    First of all be sure doors and trunk lid fit and work well. After the chop they aren´t better... Be sure all the frame supports are solid. Use a lot of pipe (conduit in MF 3 ;)) to support roofless body.

    I chopped just the same amount from my -50 10 years ago. PM me your email address if you want me to send few project pics.
     
  6. TMoney
    Joined: Dec 27, 2006
    Posts: 804

    TMoney
    Member

    PMs sent. Thanks a lot guys.
     
  7. Jalopy Joker
    Joined: Sep 3, 2006
    Posts: 31,262

    Jalopy Joker
    Member

    contact Gene Winfield to see if he is going to chop a roof at a show near you this year. doing nine chops at nine different shows this year, one done already.
     
  8. Pinstriper40
    Joined: Sep 24, 2007
    Posts: 3,611

    Pinstriper40
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Take your time, mark your centerline on the base of the windshield, the top of the windshield, the rear window, and in front of the trunk. Measure three times and cut once... really pay attention to the c pillar area- that's the spot that makes or breaks a chop on any curvy car like a shoebox. Have a couple friends over to help- a few extra sets of eyes never hurt!
     
  9. TMoney
    Joined: Dec 27, 2006
    Posts: 804

    TMoney
    Member

    Thanks guys. Luckily I'm working with a friend that is a metal master. Just wanted to make sure we didn't make any stupid mistakes that may be common.


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  10. lawman
    Joined: Sep 19, 2006
    Posts: 2,665

    lawman
    Member

    That's some good advice fellow's !!!
     
  11. jamesgardner
    Joined: Jul 3, 2011
    Posts: 55

    jamesgardner
    Member

    Lots of support widen the roof don't bend the pillars
     
  12. TMoney
    Joined: Dec 27, 2006
    Posts: 804

    TMoney
    Member

    I'd like to see a side by side of cars where roof was widened vs. moving A pillars in.


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  13. fridaynitedrags
    Joined: Apr 17, 2009
    Posts: 402

    fridaynitedrags
    Member

    Why not do something different and section it. I have only seen one or two in the last 50 years.
     
  14. jamesgardner
    Joined: Jul 3, 2011
    Posts: 55

    jamesgardner
    Member

    Widening the roof is more work in the beginning, but nicer and less work later. The windows will work, the stainless is just a cut and re-weld. The problem is that because shoebox's come to a point, you have to widen it in 2 places. I chopped mine 3 1/2 in the front, and about 5 in the back. So, as it goes back, the roof gets wider, starting with about an inch in the front and a few in the back. I was happy with the way it came out.

    Good luck!

    James
     

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  15. jamesgardner
    Joined: Jul 3, 2011
    Posts: 55

    jamesgardner
    Member

    Oh yeah, widen it just above the pillars. It makes for less body work. Also, on mine, the side front glass is slanted down in the back instead of up, so I flipped the glass and it worked great.
     

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  16. thesupersized
    Joined: Aug 22, 2004
    Posts: 1,367

    thesupersized
    Member

    there's a million ways to skin a cat, but for mine(the grey one) we just angled the a pillars worked out fine...took 5" out of the a pillars and 6" verticle in he back. extended the catwalk too. Make sure you get rear window placement right! If you're doing 3" and 4" i wouldn't widen the roof. My brother did his the same way as mine he took 3 1/2 out of his a pillars and it worked out good in his car. He has all his windows and stuff working

    Here's a few pics of mine, I am no pro, just doing my best. Still needs vent windows and a bunch of other stuff.
     

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  17. thesupersized
    Joined: Aug 22, 2004
    Posts: 1,367

    thesupersized
    Member

    dont bring it to a glass guy either for a windshield. its the easiest to do on these. Just take ur old windshield rubber and cut it into small sections and make a template from wood the same thickness as the original glass. bring template to glass guy and have him cut it out but its easy to install. dont waste your money letting them do the work. i cut my new rubber at the center of the bottom, cut a new "tongue" into the bottom of the new center post rubber so it fits nice in the groove. and i filled the cut lines with some black sealant that the glass guy recommended.
     

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  18. TMoney
    Joined: Dec 27, 2006
    Posts: 804

    TMoney
    Member

    Damn, I really like the chop on yours. Maybe I'll have to go just a touch lower.

    That's a great trick. Thanks!
     
  19. beyond static
    Joined: Apr 3, 2011
    Posts: 136

    beyond static
    Member
    from Louisiana

    Do you have any pictures of your car posted on the forum TMoney?
     
  20. TMoney
    Joined: Dec 27, 2006
    Posts: 804

    TMoney
    Member

    Here you go. I'm kinda going backward I know. Already painted and done new interior. ;)
    ImageUploadedByTJJ1358740071.741380.jpg


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  21. TMoney
    Joined: Dec 27, 2006
    Posts: 804

    TMoney
    Member

    ImageUploadedByTJJ1358740178.259767.jpg
    ImageUploadedByTJJ1358740199.172937.jpg


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  22. beyond static
    Joined: Apr 3, 2011
    Posts: 136

    beyond static
    Member
    from Louisiana

    Thanks for the pictures. The color and stance is very similar to how I want my shoebox to turn out.
     
  23. TMoney
    Joined: Dec 27, 2006
    Posts: 804

    TMoney
    Member

    Cool. I think I'm going to lower the rear a bit more.


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  24. SloppyEggs
    Joined: Jan 10, 2012
    Posts: 197

    SloppyEggs
    Member

    Keep us updated, I'm in the same boat as you are.
     
  25. No real need to widen the roof skin, it is actually way more work than angling the posts, there's an awful lot of material to re weld with the chances of warping all to hell as opposed to the minor cuts at the corners of the posts. I have done both ways and would typically do the post any time over cutting the whole skin twice...
     
  26. EBW
    Joined: Oct 16, 2011
    Posts: 544

    EBW
    Member

    I just subscribed to this thread.
    Im in the same boat also.. i have been reading ALL the threads on this site... lots of great info!
     
  27. Measure once, cut twice..................... Or is it the other way around?
     
  28. TMoney
    Joined: Dec 27, 2006
    Posts: 804

    TMoney
    Member

    I've been reading them too. Lots of info and techniques.
     
  29. TMoney
    Joined: Dec 27, 2006
    Posts: 804

    TMoney
    Member

    holy shit!!! That avatar pic!!!
     

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