Front crossmember install ?

I am installing a new front crossmember and I am wondering about the angle of the pad mount and the hight of the radiator mounting pads? Can someone school me on this?

 

Noone knows?

 

First of all; WHAT vehicle are you asking about? (or frame?)

 

You waited a whole nine minutes to complain and gave us ZERO information.

 

19 minutes but who's counting besides you. on with the question. what vehicle and what year ?

 

I have an model A and added an aftermarket 32 crossmember. Sorry about the rush. 31 car and frame.

 

The angle of the dangle equals the heat of the meat...
7* caster on the front cross member.....

 

With top of frame level? Then rock crossmember to 7*? And radiator pads level with top of frame or slightly below?

 

10 degrees if you plan on raking the frame. 7 degrees if it's going to be level.

 

I read somewhere that the "new" '32 style cross-members have some angle built into them. As far the pads, i'd make them about 3/8-1/2 inch below the top of the frame. You can always shim the radiator "up" but not down.
Someone correct me if i'm wrong on this.

 

Ya, most of the after market crossmembers have somewhere between 5 and 7 degrees built into them. Level the frame, set the crossmember in put an angle finder on and see where it's at. & is ok but if you have a fairly heavy rake kick it up a bit and zap it in. The stock crossmember on an "A" slipped into the rails so the radiator pads are just the thickness of the frame rail low, But if you can do it take a clue from Vin-Tin above and drop it just a little more. He is right it's easier to shim a radiator up than to drop one down.

 

Just a bit of pondering here. Guys put Model A crossmembers in 32 frames all the time to lower them an inch but what is the reasoning behind putting a 32 crossmember in a Model A frame? Just curious about the why of it.

 

Who made the crossmember? 5-7 degrees positive castor is correct, But if you have the right crossmember it should be already stamped that way, So you just need to make the radiator pads level, Also keep in mind that it is not the end of the world if you are a little off, As alot of hotrods have been built and driven and raced, with stock configurations.

 

First I have heard of this, However I had an old 29 roadster pickup hot rod that had a 32 crossmember in the front, Was built sometime in the 50's or early 60's and I could never figure out why they done it, Unless it was to use the front 32 motor mounts.

 

I didn't think of the motor mount thing. That would be a good reason though.

 

No, very true. The original '32 front crossmember was about an inch deeper than the an original Model "A" crossmember, therefore it sat the car about an inch higher. In the old days especially before dropped axles, an "A" front crossmember in a '32 frame was the first step to a lower profile. Since the early seventies when the first after market crossmembers came out, the '32 and "A" crossmembers have been sort of "universalized" for the lack of a better term. In other words it was so popular to put an "A" crossmember in a deuce frame, the manufacuters just sorta skipped making a legit replica '32 type cross member. Hope that is as clear as mud...

 

Once again, why put a 32 cross member in an A frame?? Mr48chev asked the same question. You just happen to have it and wanted to use it or was it engineered this way?
I ask this because we are considering an A front crossmember in 34 rails - mainly because we have the pieces...

 

As I said above, most of the '32 aftermarket front crossmembers today are actually repros of "A" crossmembers. It's that simple.

 

I used a JW Rod Garage crossmember that is designed to be welded in between boxed rails. It has built in caster of 7 1/2 degrees...
Both So-Cal and Shadowrods make a model A style crossmember that will work with unboxed rails. They both have built in caster also...

 

Thanks guys, I set the frame at 0* and the crossmember at 7* then added a little space for shim room on the radiator mount.

 

Do you realize this means you are intending to finish build and drive the car with the chassis at 0*. You might want to do a " search " on " rubber rake " befor you finish welding that member in, TR

 

I'm not picking on you sir, but maybe purchase and read the whole book on Hot Rod Chassis fabrication. This might help you understand things better, TR

 

From looking at his other threads and photos I don't think that a huge rubber rake is an issue. I plan to do pretty much the same on my A Vic as it will most likely have 6.00's on the front and 6.50's on the back and a rubber rake isn't an issue.

 

Checking the old frame that is set up with the large rubber. It has a 1.60* pitch and the rubber I will be running will even be closer in size than these. So I should be good to go and a whole bunch better than the 2* the crossmember was set at. Thanks

 

A little different from the norm,,,usually a 32 frame with a Model A cross member.

7 degrees is the basic set up with a 32 frame,,possibly your set up would be close. HRP