Disc brake without a power booster

Of course it works without issue.why would there be a problem with it? Is it weird that almost all of us run. 4 drums and no power? That's what a Hotrod is!

 

Why residuals on your disc but not your drums?

 

I run 4 wheel disks on my roadster. No power. 4 piston Kelsey Hays, 67 Mustang, Corvette non power master cylinder. Have to run a spring to return the pedal as the weight of the pedal will apply the brakes over time.

 

I have discs frnt and rear and no booster. Works great with the car being so light. If it had assist it would likely lock up and skid to a stop ever time I braked. Model A w/302 and c4 auto trns.

 

4 wheel disc on an Anglia, Corvette M/C, 8:1 pedal worked great.

 

No booster required. I'm running with four Wilwood 4 piston calipers. 68-76 corvette master cylinder with 1" bore, and the stock pedal. Plus it's a big ol' car...pushing two tons.

 

Hey Fuzzy what's up - the concrete guy in the green car

 

Somthing not mentioned is that the square inches of the caliper has a relation to the braking. More square inches at the caliper equals more braking. Size of caliper piston matters.

 

Dude it's been a while. Hows tricks? Going to GNRS?

 

My son and I built his 47 International pickup with a Volarie front suspension and disk brakes front/drum back. Master under the floor using the stock pedal with no residual pressure valves, no booster. It has been working just fine for over 5 years. So I don't think residual pressure valves are needed in all applications.

 

Maybe your M/C already has a residual valve built in?

 

10-4 - Still a concrete guy - ran out of money - went back to work

 

Concreteman, what pedal set up was that you posted?

 

Bumping to the top; I am running a Mustang II front end with the 9" disc, a Mustang rear converted to disc's, and a Wilwood reverse pedal setup with the master cylinder mounted in the engine bay serving both the clutch and brakes and have found you have to stand on the pedal to stop. Not real comfortable with the outcome. I tried to upgrade the front to 11" rotors and found they hit the lower control arm. I was told I would need to grind the control arm down a little to make the rotors fit? Not sure I'm, comfortable with that either. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

you have dropped spindles?

What size master cylinder do you have? might try going down a size or two on the mc bore, it helps with leverage. If you don't understand why, maybe you ought to read up on how hydraulics work?

 

Running disk brakes on my avatar, no booster. No issues. Been like that for well over 20 years.

 

No offense intended but Arial font and larger text size is easier to read.

If you want to run disc brakes without a booster is just like running drum brakes without a booster. use a manual brake peddle and a master that was run on a car that ran manual brakes. Hell we ran a '55 Stude with the original master and disc drum setup for years all over the damned United States no problems.

 

Leverage -
Stopping is all about leverage.

Travel distance, ratio, stoke, bore size and volume makes, changes or limits the needed leverage.

 

My old 65 mustang gt had non power disc front and drum rear from the factory. The rear brakes would fit an 8" or 9" small bearing rear for a factory engineered set up.

 

Thanks for all the reply's......NO on the dropped spindles....I do understand how hydraulics work so I'll have to look further into the mc bore....running Wilwood reverse pedal mounted compact remote master cylinder 3/4" bore with 1 13/32" stroke, with the reservoir mounted in engine compartment.

 

The pedal leverage ratio...what is it?

 

It's a Cobra kit car, so anything is possible. (Also OT)

 

Not sure on the pedal leverage ratio, but it looks like Wilwood lists it as 5.1:1? And X38, what does (Also OT) mean??

 

My '67 Vette has disk without power assist. You really have to push on the pedal.

 

sounds like that might be your problem.

hilarious....it means Off Topic, which your car is for this forum. Might want to read the "read this first" posts?

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/lost-have-questions-read-this-first.927759/

 

Sure no booster will work, but adding Hydro-Boost is my Favorite for stopping.

 

31V got it right about the pedal ratio. I put power on two cars and it didnt work until I changed the pedal ratio

 

With MII stock lower arms you can roll the outside edge near the lower ball joint under with a heavy mallet rather than grinding the metal away to fit the 11" rotors.

 

Any thoughts on what to do about the pedal ratio, change out the pedals maybe??
Thanks for all the help, as far as OT, I thought we were all "car guys" out to help each other with any prior knowledge we might have, didn't realize I had to have a special car to post here, sorry.

 

Here, this should help:
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/the-h-a-m-b-rules-guidelines.44274/