What is the worst that could happen if I just fled or sanded burrs off of surface and reinstalled?I had no "play" between #1 and 2 rods when torqued to crank, pulled pistons, rods etc.. And found ends of rods to be nicked
I understand that! LolBut! However if the mating surface of the bearing to journal is perfect and just the chamfer was nicked and the burr was knocked down. The outer surface was damaged due to a vice and I know it's ok to sand that against a flat surface to avoid contact with the other rod to allow a slight "play" between the two, so would the same law apply to the chamfer to the shoulder of the journal Thanks for the replies!
No rod is straight I had them all machined while I had the block shaved and cylinders bored I nicked the chamfer surface trying to pull the cap off stubborn arp bolts
I am looking for advice because I am not sure if the sanding of the chamfer alone would change the geometry enough to affect the longevity of the engine
I'm no engine machinist by any means, this is my first "hot" engine build. I've never had to deal with perfecting a new build.
Since engines take so much time to assemble, and cost so much; wouldn't you want everything perfect the first time? I don't take chances when building an engine. If in doubt I always have the part checked, regardless of what it is. But I wouldn't waste time arguing if I asked and the answers weren't what I wanted to hear either.
No, not to this extent! Meaning I've tore down and reassembled stock engines but never had issues with damaging the chamfer of a rod, especially dealing with upgrading to ARP bolts and so forth
If there has been no deformation of the rod and cap and no deep gouges, just dress it and pop it back in.
I was able to sand burr off smooth, to naked eye and feel, but was just questioning if in the process sanded he surrounding area far enough to be a lower surface than the rest
A ding or dent, raises the metal up like a crater rim. Sanding is not the best choice. I would use fine files; flat, or half round, or whatever shapes work best in whatever spot. If you get the hang of it, it will just take down the high spots without barely making a mark on the surrounding areas.
Image will not work so we can't tell for sure . If you are just using a stock rod , buy the time you have it magged and maybe have it re-balanced if enough material was removed , you just as well buy a new rod . A stock rod doesn't cost all that much and is cheap insurance . When you start to question the part that you are trying to repair , I believe we already know the answer . It will more than likely be OK but if you are not 100% positive , then just buy a new rod and that will give you peace of mind when the engine is all assembled . Retro Jim
Still no pictures! The chamfer is only there to clear the radius (corner,if you will) of the crank journal. It is not intended to touch anything, so if some portion of the chamfer is a little "lower", it still won't touch anything. And yes, ARP bolts are a pain when trying to get the cap off for assembly. I would say most machine shops have a special parallel vise that makes it easier and wont damage the rod or cap. At least ours did. You could at least have the rod alignment checked, they probably wont ding you to bad for that. just another opinion, Ron. RetroJim also makes a good point.
I don't remember if you had the crank turned. If you did, you might want to check journal width. There may be a problem where the journal was not turned properly being thet you said you had no side clearance.
The Jalopy Journal
