any idea on how to take a tranny out of my 54 Chevy 150 series? the drive shaft is a little funny i think its enclosed cuz i cant find any u joints connecting it to the rear diff, not sure how to drop it or get clearance in order to remove the transmission.
First do an introduction like your supposed to, and I'll tell ya..........Just kiddin'.......mostly. Yes, it's enclosed. It's called a torque tube. You have two choices...unbolt the rear axle and pull it back a ways, or pull both the engine and trans together. Doesn't that sound like fun?...lol. Be careful...the front of the torque tube will drop with force. Support it before pulling the engine/trans. Now do an intro. Welcome to the Hamb, newbie! Btw...Just looked at your profile...nothin' there. Fill that out too...jeez.
slide the bell on tork tube back and disassemble u joint , drop tork tube down DO NOT CUT OFF your FINGERS THEN REMOVE TRANSMISSION thats a very simple thing to do NOT??? toom my first one out witjh a torch, not a good method
If you cant tread the Instructions and rules of the HAMB,,maybe you better get somone else to do your work for you,,DUHHHHHH
It is not the easiest transmission to R&R. Pull up the carpet and expose the front floorboard. There should be an access panel on the hump. Remove it so you can get to the trans. Support the torque tube with a jack then slide the bell back to expose the u-joint. Dissassemble the joint then lower the torque tube. Now you can support the engine with a jack and remove the transmission mount. Now remove the bolts holding the transmission to the bell housing and slide the trans back and out through the floorboard. By now you will have probably cut at least two fingers, lost the short fine thread bolts for the u-joint and leaked grease all over you carpet and seat cover. If it was easy everyone would want to do it.
Its funny how some people spend 5 minutes to write a post chastizing a new person instead of taking 2 minutes to help them out. Real classy. Anyways, 50Chevy nailed it. That should get you what you need. You can use thos scans until you get a real shop manual. Word of advice, get new u-joint retaining clips if you're putting that back in the car or use some good loctite on them. These trannies go in & out real easy but the torque tube can be a pain to deal with. I'd suggest removing as much grease and such around collar with brake cleaner and then shoot some penetraining oil down it so it slides down on the shaft real nice. Good luck and welcome to the HAMB! PS: You should do an intro or you'll continue to get flamed by forum police.
My Apologies for my lack of introduction, not sure how to do that. Ive ben too busy and pissed with my car to think of anything els. I just got through with t full engine rebuild (original 235) and took the engine and trans out a few weeks ago I really dont want to do that again if you know what I mean. A few questions though. How do I slide the bell on the tork tube back and disassemble the u joint. That little bugger doesnt want to budge. ?? and this will expose the yolk correct? and which way is easier. Pulling the engine with trans or messing with the tork tube?
you have to loosen the big threaded nut on the torque tube, then remove and clean any dirt around the area so it can slide easy, yep it exposes the u joints and yoke
i took my tranny out to change the clutch, its easy pulling the rearend out slightly, you only need a few inches, and use the access hatch on the floor board thats what its there for, i took the tranny out form the inside of the car
Is this the big treaded nut your talking about (rotate head toward the left and you will see the right view and the confussed look on my face)
The '50 parts car I picked up with no tranny the rearend was only attached on one side, I presume they umbolted the other side to get enough play to pull the trans.
Unbolt it from the rear springs and slide it back a bit. The car has to be really well supported by blocks or good solid stands though. The job can be done with the front seat in place but it will give a guy a lot more room to work if it's out and out of the way. And you don't risk getting grease on it. on sliding the bell back on the torque tube, clean the straight part behind the end of the bell very clean as the guys said and even polish it a bit with something to make it slick and smooth for the bell to slide on. You are only going to get enough room to work on the Ujoint to get it apart at best but it is done all the time. I'd put a jack under the torque tube with just enough pressure to hold it in place but not lift it while your fingers are between the bell and the trans as it can be a real finger eater if it drops and you have them in there.
Exploded view..Keep this link, tons of information. http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/1929_54chevyparts/05/355.HTM RULE #1...Don't let the torquetube drop down on your hand or fingers. It has force behind it.Put a jackstand(concrete block) or something to keep it from slammng downward. The bell/ball gasket set has several gaskets for the bell to bolt back to the transmission. Using more than one gasket will give the ball/bell a more loose fit. One gasket might be to tight. You'll be able to tell when you put it back. Good Luck and welcome aboard. P.S. It might be time to put a new cork gasket to keep it rom dripping oil( see exploded view)
Some information for this in a thread I started when working on my son's. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=598897 1. No floor opening in 54, not needed anyway. 2. Loosen collar on torque tube (trans bolts and tube collar), slide back. 3. Support tube, remove u-joint bolts, slide back. Lower tube. 4. Remove linkage and bolts from transmission. 5. Will probably have to raise engine slightly, slide trans back till input shaft clears bellhousing then forward out the right side to remove.
24 riverview has it correct no need to move the rear end back ,the slip on the ball give all the room needed. When I was draging my 54 with a warmed up 261 I changed the trans most weeks and never left home without a couple of spare axles.
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