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351 & AOD in 47 Ford...

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Chevy3600, Sep 18, 2012.

  1. Chevy3600
    Joined: Jul 7, 2011
    Posts: 30

    Chevy3600
    Member
    from Chicago

    I plan on using a 351 Windsor and an AOD in my 47 Ford Fordor. Anyone ever install a 351 in theres? I see some people have SBF mounts, just wondering if anyone here has ever done this and can get me some tips.
     
  2. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 17,218

    Tim
    Member
    from KCMO

    Check out chassi engineering they make mounts and bits for all sorts of stuff in these cars. Chassi engineering inc when you google it. Be forwarned, its gonna get very tight. If I had it to do again hanging pedals with the mc on the firewall or behind the dash and a manual trans would have saved me a good chunk of money and a lot of time.
     
  3. Weedburner 40
    Joined: Jan 26, 2006
    Posts: 956

    Weedburner 40
    Member

    We build mounts for the SBF plus a widened X center to accept all the overdrive autos. Check us out at www.weedetrstreetrod.com
     
  4. Chevy3600
    Joined: Jul 7, 2011
    Posts: 30

    Chevy3600
    Member
    from Chicago

    Tim, your MC is on the frame isnt it?

    And Weedburner, I really like when I see guys that build the products they represent. It shows they're a stand up person. So, give me a few reasons to go with your product and not the CE kit. I'm not trying to start a war, it's just that I like to hear both ends.
     

  5. 40FordGuy
    Joined: Mar 24, 2008
    Posts: 2,907

    40FordGuy
    Member

    The 351 W will bolt right in, just about anywhere that a 302 does,... It is 1" taller at the deck, and approx 1.5" wider at the exh. ports. It's a nice torquey powerplant.

    I won't get into the merits of one product vendor or other, Lots of good stuff out there.

    4TTRUK
     
  6. Chevy3600
    Joined: Jul 7, 2011
    Posts: 30

    Chevy3600
    Member
    from Chicago

    So the bolt in mounts from CE or mounts from weedeatr will be fine? Are there any frame mods required? Should I brace it or box it or anything? I tend to lean towards the "build it like a brick shithouse" side. As opposed to build it to where I question it. But I've never done a swap like this, so that's why I'm asking all of you.
     
  7. havi
    Joined: Dec 30, 2008
    Posts: 1,876

    havi
    Member

    Subscribing. Got the same plans for a tudor I'm getting soon.
     
  8. Chevy3600
    Joined: Jul 7, 2011
    Posts: 30

    Chevy3600
    Member
    from Chicago

    Im glad someone else is in the same boat!
     
  9. okiedokie
    Joined: Jul 5, 2005
    Posts: 4,785

    okiedokie
    Member
    from Ok

  10. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 17,218

    Tim
    Member
    from KCMO

    Yeah my master is under the floor near where the stock one would be, the trans was even in the way for that working easy lol. The pan on the trans is wider then the x member gap at that point. Feel free to look at my build post for rants haha
     
  11. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 17,218

    Tim
    Member
    from KCMO

    Also because of the steering box location exhaust will be tight and running duals if the brakes are not under the floor you can more easily tuck the exhaust up threw the frame the entire length.
     
  12. Chevy3600
    Joined: Jul 7, 2011
    Posts: 30

    Chevy3600
    Member
    from Chicago

    I'm planning on having the master under the hood. I'm pirating it off of my friends 77 LTD II. Not exactly sure how I will mount it and set up everything for the brakes, but I will cross that bridge when I come to it.
     
  13. Chevy3600
    Joined: Jul 7, 2011
    Posts: 30

    Chevy3600
    Member
    from Chicago

    Tim, we did some measuring yesterday, and without having the motors out of either car, or the new mounts in hand, it seems that the steering box may need to get moved??? Although it may be a bit early to make that judgement, it just seems that the headers will hit the box. Did you have that problem? I know you said it will be tight, but its already worrying me and I dont even have the motors out yet. lol
     
  14. RAY With
    Joined: Mar 15, 2009
    Posts: 3,132

    RAY With
    Member

    A piece of cake. Only problem area will be the X member and the big AOD but dooable.Need a couple of 4 inch wide 3/16 flat plates cut approximately 3.5 foot long to weld in on the back side of the X member so at a later time you can cut the X out which will give plenty of room for the trans. Motor is a easy thing as is frabicating the mounts. I installed a 86 chevele tilt wheel and did the mustang II front end and installed hanging peddles and its a nice ride.
     

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  15. Chevy3600
    Joined: Jul 7, 2011
    Posts: 30

    Chevy3600
    Member
    from Chicago

    I would like to keep the factory column. How much clearance do you have between the factory headers and the steering box? The box didnt have to be located at all? And I plan on keeping the factory front suspension for now. Will that make a big difference as far as placement of the motor? And Any pics of the cut x member?
     
  16. havi
    Joined: Dec 30, 2008
    Posts: 1,876

    havi
    Member

    Have ya looked into Sandersons block hugger headers? enough clearance with them?
     
  17. zibo
    Joined: Mar 17, 2002
    Posts: 2,361

    zibo
    Member
    from dago ca

    Did you already get the rear sump oil pan?
    I've got a nice 351 that has the mustang front sump,
    and there's no way it could work.
    Ended up finding an oil pan from a later bronco and hope it will fit engine,
    it looks like it will.
    TP
     
  18. Chevy3600
    Joined: Jul 7, 2011
    Posts: 30

    Chevy3600
    Member
    from Chicago

    Hey Tim, what pan did you use? Zibo, what pan did you end up going with?
     
  19. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 17,218

    Tim
    Member
    from KCMO

    oh man sorry i havn't been keeping up with this post. I have a sbc in mine with center dump/ram horn manifolds and whatever pan that was on it when i got it.

    exhaust was close but it fit fine.

    but i went and looked at chassis engineering inc's web site as thats were i got my mounts from and they make remarks concerning what your talking about

    http://www.chassisengineeringinc.com/page66.html

    that should take you straight to what im talking bout and their products for this swap which i recommend.

    They say with there mounts you can use a bronco oil pan and make some notes about normal exhaust working with the stock box.

    I know when i received my parts it even had a sheet inside showing drawings of which exhaust manifolds would work the best. There tech # was also of help when i had questions

    hopefully this helps
     

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