Motorcraft Carburetors, Tub Full! What to do with em??

If you'll let me know which you think best I'll get better photos of it

 

I do appreciate all you guys helpful comments on this, getting a crash course in carburetors ; )

 

Here is what you do with the 2 barrels. Pony Carbs in Las Cruses,Nm put this set together. They only work on Motocraft.

 

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Nice! What's inside that left fender, is that some kind of cylinder or something?

 

That is the fresh air duct

 

advertize USPS flat rate shipping they should fit in the 7dollar box

 

I've been leaning towards the Ebay route, when I can get all that set up, I'm waiting on a Paypal card now, should be here in a week or so. Since arriving at this I've set them aside, and haven't even scrubbed them up to try and locate numbers from the body. That site Merc suggested looks like a good option too, and soon as I can find the numbers I'll see if any match the ones they want there, they seem to be offering pretty decent prices for certain models http://www.ponycarburetors.com/default.asp?page=wepurchasecores

 

put them on EBAY. you will get the same or more money as Pony and the buyer will pay shipping. Also, you can sell them w/o return. This way you can avoid having Pony nitpick the ones you send them...jack

 

That makes sense too Jack ; ) Gonna have to go there anyway with some of the more oddball, older ones, and single barrels anyway I guess

 

Ford parts are easy to tell the year. C is the 60s, D is the 70s and so on, then the second number is the exact year so a D5 was first used in 1975. Usually on carbs, the third digit will be a T if it came on a pickup or truck. So you have a 1975 car carb and a 1977 pickup carb, most likely from 460s since they were probably the only engines with that style of carb during that period.

 

Believe it or not, I was only recently shown where those numbers are at. What's so good about the 1.08s ? and how do I determine which series it is ? I came up with a 1.02, a 1.08, a 1.23 and a 1.33, and three 1.21s

 

Anybody? Know why the 1.08 is more popular?

 

NHRA stock eliminator and super stock early mustangs must run the 1.08 carb in their race cars if it came from the factory with one.

 

Thank You Very much Kracker

 

I'd take an Autolite 2100 1.02 off your hands.

 

Not to be an ass here but the class ads is the best place to sell crap. if you don't think they are worth anything price thm as such. 10 or 15 dollars a pop plus the ride will cover your ass for getting them shipped.

Oh while I am at it I do have a '38 Ford for sale.

 

I understand what you're saying porknbeaner, except maybe the last part, "plus the ride will cover your ass for getting them shipped". I didn't really understand that. If I hadn't thought they were worth anything I would have dropped them in the dirty aluminum pile. If you had read the first few posts I made in this thread you would see I'm not here trying to sell them, but to learn about them, what they are and how to identify them. I have the 2 barrels listed on CL, but am working on setting up an ebay account, and they will likely be going there, as was recommended earlier in the thread. I recently had someone specifically wanting a 1.08 and got to studying into it, and posted the question here. I don't think of your post as being an ass, but I do think you don't understand my purpose here. Thanks though for your suggestion

 

Hi Comet. The 1.02 doesn't really say Autolite or Motorcraft, the only name I see is actually on the tag, says Ford, the next line says C4AF B and bottom line A 3MC. I gather it's a 64, and was in a car, but whether it's an autolite 2100 I don't know. How can I tell the series? I noticed in Googling they made a 4900 California emissions series, but I don't how to tell what series these are

 

Price them to make it worth your while to box them and make sure that you get shipping from your buyer.

Some of the fellas are really into autolite carbs, I think they are Ok if that is what you have but I wouldn't go out of my way to look for oine unless I was doing a resto. If you want to get ride of them price em cheap but high enough to make it worth your while to box 'em and ship 'em. Is what I am saying.