pedal to the floor and keep it there. extra air leans out the flooded condition. works for me. fought the boiling carb issues for three yrs now.
I was thinking about blocking the heat risers in the intake manifold(s). I'm sure that would help lower the carburetor temps. Also thought about about a 160 or 170 t-stat, wooden carburetor spacer, and a heat shield. None of these help with efficiency though. Although with the E10 gasoline everyone is starting to sell around here now it might be necessary.
Leaky brass plugs in the carb fuel bowls can do it too, if so equipped. Just something else to look for. Bob
My Henry J with the tunnel ram is a pain in the ass to hot start, I have to let it crank for about 20-30 seconds before it will fire. I tried cracking the throttle blades to let more air in but it only adds more fuel and then blows nice and pig rich once it starts up. It does start right up cold, but drive from the pits into the staging lanes and restart in a couple minutes, no way does it fire right off.
Here is what i know about heat and fuel. The throttle plate material makes a difference, dealing with heat is why holley 94 and stromberg 97 and rochester all had steel throttle base plates. On a stock '61ish imperial with an edelbrock the owner had typical restart complaints. I connected a fuel pressure gage between the pump and carb, we ran the engine to normal temp and it had 5lbs pressure. We shut the engine off and the pressure remained at 5lbs, trapped between the needle & seat of the carb and the checkvalve in the pump. After a halfminute or so the pressure dropped at 4 1/2lbs - the needle and seat had opened allowing fuel to enter the bowl until satisfied they closed. Another half minute and the pressure dropped to 4lbs. Another half minute and the pressure dropped again. Each time the pressure changed was very positive in that it didn't trickle, it went open and then closed. I can't say where the fuel went. I think it evaporated, i watched the boosters and it did not push fuel thru the boosters into the engine. I added a wooden spacer and that was a big improvement. But the next summer i replaced the edelbrock with the original, reconditioned carter(? i think it was) and it had the steel throttle base plate. The owner says it is much better and feels more confidant when he hits the key.
............ ethanol. Think you have problems? Go to the power equipment forum sometime. E-10? Yea, right. I bet in some regions they're stretching gasoline 20% where they can get away with it. The fellow who said gas today is blended for modern injection systems has it right. Now, what's the fix? Tom S. in Tn.
Seems to be a never ending problem..... I had a 64 Bonneville that was great when cold....Hot starting ? Don't make any bets ! One of my co workers owned a Lotus, mid engine 4 cyl, <the model escapes the memory> and it had a small electric blower, to direct cooling air on the outside of the carburetor. I never asked if it was "factory",..or if he installed himself. 4TTRUK
Had the same problem with my car with the built 350 put the cool carb plates on and solved the problem no matter how hot it is starts right up and runs great
I've had good luck with the following 3 things. 1. Block off the exhaust crossover on the intake manifold to reduce manifold heat. 2. Add a phenolic spacer under the carb to keep th carb body cool, so it won't boil the fuel. 3. Add a small oroficed (.020") bypass line from the fuel pump discharge, back to the suction side, to relieve residual fuel pressure on engine shutdown. Should solve your problem. PS. If you're still running the stock exhaust manifolds with the butterfly for the heat crossover, remove it, or at least make sure it's opening.
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