I can't imagine a bore of 1.417 M/C for brakes. I don't think you could put enough leg pressure to stop any vehicle with a M/C that size. Ago
Well I just bought a set of those 60-62 pedals. Once I get them here I'll be getting them installed. I'm be on standby for awhile, as I want the pedals on hand to place the steering column. Grrr Keith
Here is the bracket I bought Hope it will work. The owner "thinks" it's a '63. However as F&J pointed out it looks more like a 60-62. I have the master on order. Making progress!!! Keith
Okay, so I think I can add some info regarding the 62 truck dual master cylinder. I read the thread and I don't recall anyone discussing this. (you may already know this but I thought I would post anyway) The 62 chevy truck dual master cylinder was setup for a truck with hydraulic clutch. So one side of the master cylinder was used for the brakes and the other side was used for the hyrdaulic clutch. The brake side had a bleed back post drilled to allow fluid to return to the resevoir. The clutch side did not have this bleed back port drilled. The clutch side was setup to automatically adjust as the clutch wore down so fluid was not allowed to return back to the resevoir.. So if you use the clutch side for brakes the fluid will not bleed back and the brakes will not release. I have first hand experience with this. My dad had setup his Model A with this exact master cylinder but flpped it around had mounted it below the floor boards. So the brake side was used for the clutch and the clutch side was used for the brakes. He could not understand why the brakes would not release. When I was 16 we got it running and I rebuilt the master cylinder and found the bleed back port issue. The fix is easy. The clutch side has the same bleed back port beveled but not drilled all the way. Find a drill bit that fits the bleed back port on the brake side and then drill the clutch side bleed back port. Hope this helps. I will try and post a picture.
01spirit750 That is one of the reasons I went and found the proper pedal assembly. I was going to build a crossover pedal set for it, however I found OEM parts for less than I could cobble one together for. Keith
Here's a source that explains it all. http://www.airheart-brakes.com/pdfs/MasterCylinder_Selection.pdf
Well I picked up the pedal assembly, it is in pretty good shape just needs blasted and paint. I'll also have to make a pedal stop for it and a place to mount the brake light switch. I machined a plate that picks up the 3rd hole on the master cyl. It's 1/8"plate, The plan is to weld it to the firewall as a means to stiffen it up. I'm transfering the hole locations tomorrow. should have the pedals in soon. However after that I'll have to put this project on the back burner for a bit, as I blew up the motor in my OT Jeep and I Need to get it back together ASAP as it's what earns me my paycheck. Keith
I have had many of those dual bore [1-1/8] MC's [EIS brand]..None were minus the hole on the clutch side, FYI..All worked fine swapping the guts...How ever there are some that one bore is 1-1/4..
I'll open my master up tonight and mic. it, but since I have the right pedals, It's kind of a non-issue for me, but might help some body else. I got the holes for the pedals transfered, and removed the stiffening rib so the master sits flat, I also cut a 0.125" steel plate that is to be welded to re-enforce the firewall. Here is a pic from the engine side.
soo...I know this is an old post...but I have the 60-62 MC setup on my 26 T coupe that I recently bought...it came set up with dual rods so that the brake pedal pushes the clutch and brake side.....brake side went to front brakes,clutch to rear..WAY TO STIFF IN THE PEDAL!!...so I'm going to T the front and rear brake lines together and use only the brake side on the MC,then plug off the the clutch side where the line attaches...so I will be using one rod from the brake pedal pushing only the brake side of the MC...this should work...right?....I would change to a single MC for brakes only, but the firewall is already drilled out for the 3 bolt MC
The stiff pedal may be due to the wheel cylinder diameters and master diameters being too different. Another question has to do with the pedal leverage ratio not being great enough. Other issues are residual valves. Start by telling us drum/drum, disc/drum or disc/disc. Your solution may not change the hard pedal. Phil
its drum/drum...early ford juice breaks up front,prolly 50's rear..self adjusters...short swing on the pedal...seems like its trying to push way to much fluid...but I'm really not sure
seems like the bore on the wheel cylinders and the bore on the master are close its like a 1" bore on the MC and 3/4 bore on the wheels?
The problem is pedal forces can double when using side-by-side multiple master cylinders; fine on a race car, not so much for the street, and is one reason you only find tandem (in-line) dual masters on production vehicles.
Exactly..so if I remove the second rod which activates the clutch side, it should be the same as a one cylinder MC but with a large reservoir...????...I think if you compare the single cylinder MC from the same year of 60-62 chevy truck, the reservoir is about the same size
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