Register now to get rid of these ads!

27 T Frames

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by GMM, Sep 9, 2012.

  1. GMM
    Joined: Aug 9, 2012
    Posts: 53

    GMM
    Member
    from Buhl, ID

    I just recently purchased a 1927 T Coupe Body for a project. I am currently looking at options for the frame. I have looked at a few options such as buying a frame from Speedway Motors or just building my own. However, I`m not sure on the quality of Speedways products, so I have been considering building my own; but have not had much luck locating any frame specifications. Does anyone sell a set of specs for the frames for updated suspension and engine options?
     
  2. need louvers ?
    Joined: Nov 20, 2008
    Posts: 12,903

    need louvers ?
    Member

    Do a bit of search on this one. Hot Rod Don and I answered the same basic question about a month ago for some one else. The answer basically was mock up what you have, keep the wheelbase as short as will work comfortably, and build something to suit.
     
  3. GMM
    Joined: Aug 9, 2012
    Posts: 53

    GMM
    Member
    from Buhl, ID

    Thanks! I did some searching, but sometimes the search isn't quite specific enough. I will take a look at your post. I'm a seasoned welder, but this is new territory for me. I will be learning a lot and asking many questions. Never built a frame and chassis on something this old.


    Posted from the TJJ App for iPhone & iPad
     
  4. robber
    Joined: Nov 25, 2011
    Posts: 1,999

    robber
    Member

    I like buying products from Speedway when I cant get vintage products to serve the purpose at local swap meets. Speedway is resonably priced and the service and deliveries are quick. The quality of my purchases has always been very good. That being said, I have never bought a frame from them.
     

  5. F-6Garagerat
    Joined: Apr 12, 2008
    Posts: 2,652

    F-6Garagerat
    Member

    I built a frame with 2x3 tube for my first build. I can send you picks if you give me an email. It was the.first one I ever built from scratch. I used wood 2x4's to mock up the basic shape, used a repro model A front crossmember and a round tube for the rear. I had all my suspension parts under it with the springs rachet strapped down to ride height. When I was happy with it I measured across the tops of the wood and figured everything for 2x3 tube. Just build one side at a time and make them identical, you are half way to square right there. Gussetted every weld inside and out. Drove it for 3 years and no problems.

    Sent from my Droid powered Samsung Galaxy S
     
    Last edited: Sep 9, 2012
  6. manyolcars
    Joined: Mar 30, 2001
    Posts: 9,194

    manyolcars

    Are you sure? Henry shut down production in April 1927 and not many 27s were made
     
  7. GMM
    Joined: Aug 9, 2012
    Posts: 53

    GMM
    Member
    from Buhl, ID

    I still gotta check the numbers on whats left of the old frame, it is probably a 26. ;)
     
  8. oj
    Joined: Jul 27, 2008
    Posts: 6,459

    oj
    Member

    I like to modify an 'a' frame for the 't'. The 26-7 T is a transition from the model t to model a and they kinda go together anyway.
    Mostly it depends on what you want to build, the look - fenders/no fenders; tall t or chopped; lots of variations and the frame you need to work with has a lot to do with the finished piece.
    How about posting up some pics of t's taht have caught your eye and builders (like Clarke, he makes a very nice t) might be on here and give you some do's and don'ts.
     
  9. 117harv
    Joined: Nov 12, 2009
    Posts: 6,589

    117harv
    Member

    I like to fab parts for all kinds of hot rods but I always try and re-use what is already made. Try and use all the vintage parts/pieces you can, modify when and where needed, fab new if you have to, buy new only when needed.

    I would go with a modified model A frame as suggested, or another make of similar vintage with sweeping lines.
     
  10. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 33,986

    Mr48chev
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    If you fab your own you can get the look you want and not have to go with what they supply you with that may not be all that great with your build plans.

    As the others said above there are a lot of questions that need to be answered.

    Fenders or no fenders?
    Channeled or sitting on top of the rails?
    Suicide front end or spring under frame like and A or 32?

    A lot of us have gone to the lumber yard and picked up a few 2x4's and used them to lay out the design of the frame to see what it will look like and if it fits our plans. That beats welding up a couple hundred bucks worth of steel and then having to take a few steps backwards. You can't make a roller out of it or really have it hold up an engine and trans but you can see if things will fit the way you planned.
     
  11. Buzzard II
    Joined: Aug 27, 2009
    Posts: 354

    Buzzard II
    Member

    Check out web sites for tbucketeers.com and nationaltbucketalliance.com . You can download some plans from tbucketeers, and nationaltbucketalliance has them, but you have to join to get access to them. Worth checking out. Good luck! Bob
     
  12. GMM
    Joined: Aug 9, 2012
    Posts: 53

    GMM
    Member
    from Buhl, ID


    Good info, so for my stupid question for clarification. What is the difference between the suicide and spring under front end? :confused:
     
  13. sunbeam
    Joined: Oct 22, 2010
    Posts: 6,220

    sunbeam
    Member

    The orginal frame number will be on top of the right rail between the front seat and the fire wall
     
  14. pasadenahotrod
    Joined: Feb 13, 2007
    Posts: 11,775

    pasadenahotrod
    Member
    from Texas

    Just stop where you are and gather up some parts catalogs and pictures of Ts that you may want to "copy". The T frame is a simple ladder and replacing it with an A frame is no problem.
    Ts are 100" wheelbase and As are 103 1/4" with both front rear springs directly above the axles. It's no problem to adapt the A frame to move the rear spring back of the axle and be able to get the rearend down, a dropped axle up front will do the same.
    Do your homework and spend some serious time getting a handle on old Fords, the terminology and how things work. Then start planning your car.
    Enjoy.
     
  15. GMM
    Joined: Aug 9, 2012
    Posts: 53

    GMM
    Member
    from Buhl, ID

    Never mind my last, I figured it out. I was thinking it was something else, just never heard it called a suicide. I am looking towards a solid front axle, I think it will help me keep within budget, IFS can get expensive and I`m going for more of a traditional look. :cool:
     
  16. bct
    Joined: Apr 4, 2005
    Posts: 3,156

    bct
    Member

    i agree with the statement above ....rushing into things will cost you twice as much
     
  17. bct
    Joined: Apr 4, 2005
    Posts: 3,156

    bct
    Member

    front spring can be in front , behind (suicide) or above the axle. rear axle can be above or behind....

    myself i would buy an A frame and then work with the parts you find.
     
  18. GMM
    Joined: Aug 9, 2012
    Posts: 53

    GMM
    Member
    from Buhl, ID

    No worries, I`m in no rush, that`s for sure. That is why I come here for help. I research things for weeks even months before I go crazy and start buying everything I see. I have already learned a ton from this thread and using the search I have found even more. This place is great!
     
  19. robber
    Joined: Nov 25, 2011
    Posts: 1,999

    robber
    Member

    This is a picture of my "Suicide Perch" :eek:
     

    Attached Files:

  20. retiredfireguy
    Joined: Oct 18, 2009
    Posts: 249

    retiredfireguy
    Member

    I bought the deluxe '27 T frame from Speedway, when I was building my roadster. I was happy with the product, and especially happy with the support I got from them after the purchase. I would definitely buy from them again.
     
  21. louder50
    Joined: Oct 21, 2005
    Posts: 217

    louder50
    Member
    from Michigan

    ahhhhh..........if only I wasn't a 300 pound fat sack of shit a 26 or 27 T Coupe would be it for me. Anyway, my problems aside you need to lookup Mercury Charlie and check out the frame he sells that he used under his last tall T coupe, it is sweet meat pete and he sells them for under $2k and they are already z's and stepped and perfect for one of these cars. Damn if only I could drop 150 pounds I could build one of these!!:mad:
     
  22. fiftyv8
    Joined: Mar 11, 2007
    Posts: 5,394

    fiftyv8
    Member
    from CO & WA

    Yes, I am the one who posted a similar question previously, simply asked for some info on a chassis a post a pic to show its stance.
    Simple I thought, but got my thread stonewalled by people who know better what I want.

    I will be watching to see if you can achieve more and I'd be happy to also gain from the info.

    It is not a difficult question for somebody who has built a T already.
     
  23. need louvers ?
    Joined: Nov 20, 2008
    Posts: 12,903

    need louvers ?
    Member

    fiftyV8, I'll bet you think I'm one of the people that stonewalled you. I promise I didn't. I gave the same advice I did to the original poster on this thread, then referenced that thread to him.

    Nobody can tell you dimension for dimension how to build your frame. I recomended that you get all of your components together, measure them, draw a basic frame design and put it together. It really doesn't have to be any more complicated than that. Really. Everyone of us that has ever built something like this has done it the same way, and there has to be a first time for everything. I think on your thread I mentioned Mercury Charlie's as a car to look at for inspiration, 'cause i like the way that one looks - simple. You may not.

    I'll register an opinion to you both. A frame should be built for a car that takes the owners personal tastes as far as wheelbase and stance, 'cause with these cars if you try to repurpose say, a "T" bucket frame, it never quite comes out right. I will add that it is loads easier to answer a question like this when you show a picture of what you would like the finished product to look like.

    I promise you, after you get the first one together, you'll wonder what the fuss was about.
     
    Last edited: Sep 11, 2012
  24. evintho
    Joined: May 28, 2007
    Posts: 2,380

    evintho
    Member

  25. fiftyv8
    Joined: Mar 11, 2007
    Posts: 5,394

    fiftyv8
    Member
    from CO & WA


    Nothing to worry about, the model T coupe is only a whisker narrower than a model A (across the doors) and the coupes have the same if not more leg room for folks like you and me.
    We aint fat, just fluffy and have better traction control...
     
  26. GMM
    Joined: Aug 9, 2012
    Posts: 53

    GMM
    Member
    from Buhl, ID

  27. evintho
    Joined: May 28, 2007
    Posts: 2,380

    evintho
    Member

    I'm almost finished with my '27 roadster frame. It's my first. Probably a couple of things I'd change if I had to do it over again but for the most part, I'm pretty happy with it. I too was intimidated in the beginning but after cuttin' and weldin' a few pieces, I now know what everyone means when they say "it's only metal"! The WB is 109", rear width outside rail to outside rail is 42" and front width is 28" (x-member is 24"). The rails taper to the body. Hope this helps.

    [​IMG]
     
  28. You might want to check out Wintec Fabrication. I just got one for a full fender and the quality is good. ;)
     
  29. designs that work
    Joined: Aug 29, 2005
    Posts: 411

    designs that work
    Member

    There are a couple of reasons people build their own frames, the first is MONEY or lack of, the second is pride/ego and the third is a original frame is over seventy years old! Do you think that metal is in great shape? A huge issue in California is DMV and frame numbers which we try not to discuss on line. If you buy a aftermarket frame be sure you can register it as a Model A not a 2012 Model A. Building a frame is fairly simple but all of the assorted sub assemblies can really bog you down.
    Good Luck DTW
     
  30. Good point about the registration. It's about the same in Canada. Glad I spent the time to get that done before I start anything.
     

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2021 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.